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1982gl4

Brat Build!

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Renob123 these are for you!

I just got done welding and painting it so here are some shots of the new brat/ej trans mount

 

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I'll add some more after the paint dries and it's in

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Thanks! And no I haven't found front coil overs yet, but I think I'm going to get these when my tax returns come in :brow: unless I find a good used set between now and then http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=85/CA=90

 

I think they will work well with my current set up because the only thing that hits is the spring plate, plus I get to keep my stock struts which I'm a fan of. And the brat mounts should still work!!!

Edited by 1982gl4

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I finished up the brakes today. New hoses from a legacy which fit the Brat perfectly. I put all new rear brakes on today, and I also got use an awesome tool from work, and made some lines using copper composite tubing so I will never have to change them again (the ones I replaced anyway) Tomorrow I'm hopefully picking up some coil overs in New Hampshire for a really good price. I'll post pics up when I get them!!!

 

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Guess who picked up coilovers today? This guy :grin: after five hours of driving and $50 I got two k-sport coilovers for a WRX. I think I got a pretty good deal too (the are over a grand new) Check them out! I'll be putting them in next weekend!

 

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Grrr! It's killing me that my work blocks your pics. Did you include some shots of the linkage?

 

Since you're doing suspension work as well, what are you thinking for the rear? I think you'll find that it's inadequate for your setup.

 

Jacob

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For now I'm just going to lower the rear and add a sway bar, maybe add coilovers in the future. I'm hoping I can get it done and enjoy it this summer. I don't want to mess around putting a legacy sub frame in :eek: I have talked to people that have done it, and they said they never would do it again. It's not like I don't have the skills/parts to do it, but it looks to be a lot of work for not much gain.

I do have pics of the linkage, but it's not quite done, and I need to finish the driveshaft before I really put it together, so I know for sure that if fits 100% correctly. But it was pretty easy to make I had plenty of room. I just took a legacy one and shortened it to fit (as of right now I shortened the top part of the linkage, but still need to do the bottom) I also contacted megasquirt looks like I'm getting standalone :burnout:

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For now I'm just going to lower the rear and add a sway bar, maybe add coilovers in the future. I'm hoping I can get it done and enjoy it this summer. I don't want to mess around putting a legacy sub frame in :eek: I have talked to people that have done it, and they said they never would do it again. It's not like I don't have the skills/parts to do it, but it looks to be a lot of work for not much gain.

I do have pics of the linkage, but it's not quite done, and I need to finish the driveshaft before I really put it together, so I know for sure that if fits 100% correctly. But it was pretty easy to make I had plenty of room. I just took a legacy one and shortened it to fit (as of right now I shortened the top part of the linkage, but still need to do the bottom) I also contacted megasquirt looks like I'm getting standalone :burnout:

 

Nice. I'm very interested in the Megasquirt thing as well. What are you dealing with on the driveshaft? Just length?

 

Jacob

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Yeah it's a bit short. I though about using a legacy one, but I think that the center bearing will bother my shift linkage (having the shaft bolted to the floor may bring it too close) So I need a brat one that's lengthened some. I feel like it's around 3" but not sure on the exact measurements yet. I still need to swap my rear diff ratios out as well so maybe that will happen this weekend. And I'm hope to be getting CV's soon as well I'm not sure if they will need to be shortened with the longer control arms or not.

Edited by 1982gl4

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the use of copper for brake lines worries me. does copper composite mean it will take brake line pressure that would split regular copper?

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Yes they are copper/nickel i believe. We have been using them for a few years now in other cars and have never had an issue with them.

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Got the front coilovers in today!!! I also started on the cv's. The ride hight is going to be much lower. If you are wondering why I used the camber plates for caster, it's because I have camber adjustment on the spindle, and I figured that because I welded the control arm mounts on, I would want as much adjustability as I can get. It also turns now, I still need to figure out a rack, I was thinking of going to an EJ, but we will see.

 

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You can see the weld on this one. It was mostly for mock up, but it's going to be sleeved as well.

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Edited by 1982gl4

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Got a bunch more work done today. My dad and I built a driveshaft that had to be lengthened over 6 inches from the original Brat one (this will most likely be sent out and balanced) We also finished up the other CV. I found out the trans I'm using has the same gear ratio as the brat's diff so I didn't have to touch that! :banana: (they are 3.90:1 ) I started making a steering wheel adaptor out of an old ea81 wheel, because I picked up an awesome one with an ea82 adaptor which may be going up for sale soon. Oh and I finished up the shift linkage, it was hitting on the console, so it had to be shorted some more. Enough talk on with the pics!

 

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She's sitting low now too (and that's My Dad's 1984 Mercedes 300 Coupe Diesel we are painting next to the Brat, only 333k on it :lol: )

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I think you've got these on wrong. They are suppose to adjust from side to side for camber, I think that's why they call them camber plates.

 

Like this:

camber%20plate_Large_.jpg

 

 

 

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If you are wondering why I used the camper plates for caster, it's because I have camper adjustment on the spindle, and I figured that because I welded the control arm mounts on, I would want as much adjustability as I can get.

 

I know, they are now caster plates. I did this because I welded on the control arm mounts in off from an ea82 and I want to be able to adjust them incase they are off a bit. I said that in the writing above the pics.

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I know, they are now caster plates. I did this because I welded on the control arm mounts in off from an ea82 and I want to be able to adjust them incase they are off a bit. I said that in the writing above the pics.

 

ooops. I guess you do have a method to your madness.:)

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Indeed, it's not that I don't trust my placement on them, there are just a lot of variables in this front suspension now with all the things I have added and taken away. So I just want it to be fully adjustable for handling purposes, and so I can make both sides the same :rolleyes:

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I hear ya brotha. I have to get under my Subaru this summer to hammer out some small issues with my swap.

 

Did you install a LSD rear diff yet? I know with my swap it made a huge difference. You're going to want all the grip you can get. Taking off from a stand still is neck snapping fast with this setup. I can't wait till I finish building my EJ25 and installing it. I'm hoping for all motor 200hp (at the crank). :)

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I'm hoping for around those numbers as well, if I add cams that will be no problem but it should still be no problem with the standalone I'm getting in the next few weeks:grin: Unfortunately I let my LSD go with the svx I had along with my 4.11's I had :mad: more reasons why I should have kept that car :-\ So for this year I will be running open diffs, with 3.90's Today I sucked it up and bought tires, because the are going up 10% next week due to spring being on it's way, so I got my dad to order me some at shop cost!

I got Nexen's I have them on my WRX as well they are cheep and handle pretty well on the dry and wet

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ya, I've got 4.11 gears in mine. You wouldn't want that VLSD anyway, what you want is a clutch type LSD from the older Subaru RX model.

 

What's your transmission out of?

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Some mid 90's lego I had kicking around. pulled the diff, and the trans out of it, they had been sitting outside a while and put them to use. I pulled the rear diff over off, and it had 3.90 stamped on the gear set. So I didn't have to touch the rear end in the Brat. However I don't really recall the lego's having 3.90's worse comes to worse I'll have to change out the rear diff. I just need an air hammer to do it because the rear CV's are rusted solid onto the diff :eek:

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It is very possible to have 3.90's. I have had peeps on here tell me no its not but I seen 3 legos wagons with 3.90 and one with 4.11 in my junk yard here locally. Just my .02cents

 

Thanks Clay

 

PS Sweet brat build. Im kinda gettin to work on my brat project now.:banana:

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