derfster Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I bought a 97 lagacy gt wagon put a jdm engine ej 25 d got fuel got fire . my fuel pump comes on and then go's off again.when fuel pump comes on under the hood i can hear a hissing sound There are silinoids clicking under the hood when i turn the key on and my check engine light flashes too. I also put an obd code reader on it and it shows ( p 1100 p 1101 p 1120 p 1121 p 1540 p 130 p 136 p p 500 I know what the codes are but why are there so many codes.Would that keep my car from running, could this mean that my ecu is bad or needes to be reset . also could the factory car locking system keep the car from running i have reset it but might still keep car from running. also took off catalitic converter it was dirty. I know you can start a car with out catalic converter on but im going to replace it and the o2 sensors .This has got to be something simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 When was the last time the engine ran? Did you swap the engine harness from your old engine when you did the JDM swap? If not, it's possible the wiring is different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Probably the easiest is the first codes. That P1100 and 1101 are really P0100 and 0101 which is MAF sensor stuff. That b will mess everything else up. If that gets disconnected it flat stops the engine and then all other codes can get generated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 When was the last time the engine ran? Did you swap the engine harness from your old engine when you did the JDM swap? If not, it's possible the wiring is different. Not sure when the jdm engine ran last . I had to swap the harness from the old car bucause the company that i recieved my engine from cut the harness in two spots , Uncalled for in my book especialy when there are two or three places where they just unplug. Also when i swaped harnesses, My crank sensor and knock sensor wires were cracked so i cut them and used the ends from the jdm harness and put them back where they were. Is it possable that something could be wrong there, like what color wire goes where i might have it backwards . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 Probably the easiest is the first codes. That P1100 and 1101 are really P0100 and 0101 which is MAF sensor stuff. That b will mess everything else up. If that gets disconnected it flat stops the engine and then all other codes can get generated. so what should i do to diognose this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I'd say you have some sort of electrical issue either with the crank/cam sensors or possibly the MAF since you're getting a code. When you spliced the cam & crank sensors, did you put all the wiring back the way it was before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 The first codes you mentioned were not in My manual but the others were. I only expect they would display numerically and IF it was MAF then while cranking....etc. If you haven't already done it, you could crank with the maf disconnected and see what that says, clearing the others first. Don't want to lead you wrong. 777 has tons more experience and it's wiring somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 [...]my fuel pump comes on and then go's off again.when fuel pump comes on under the hood i can hear a hissing sound There are silinoids clicking under the hood when i turn the key on and my check engine light flashes too. I also put an obd code reader on it and it shows ( p 1100 p 1101 p 1120 p 1121 p 1540 p 130 p 136 p p 500 I know what the codes are but why are there so many codes. [...]This has got to be something simple It is something simple. You have the green test mode connectors under the dash coupled together. Disconnect them. If there are still problems after doing that, let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 The first codes you mentioned were not in My manual but the others were. I only expect they would display numerically and IF it was MAF then while cranking....etc. If you haven't already done it, you could crank with the maf disconnected and see what that says, clearing the others first.Don't want to lead you wrong. 777 has tons more experience and it's wiring somewhere. thanks i will try that cranking and unpluging the maf to see what happens . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 I'd say you have some sort of electrical issue either with the crank/cam sensors or possibly the MAF since you're getting a code. When you spliced the cam & crank sensors, did you put all the wiring back the way it was before? i spliced the crank and knock sensor, I think i did the japan harness wire colors were diffirent, I had to use them because they were cracked . I put the black to the black and mached the two color wires together thinking black would be the ground color would be signal pulse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 It is something simple. You have the green test mode connectors under the dash coupled together. Disconnect them. If there are still problems after doing that, let us know. ive been hearing alot about this green wire thing, it will be awhile before i can do any thing. we've got a ton of snow and wether is bad i don't have my garage bilt yet. thanks to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 ive been hearing alot about this green wire thing, [...] The connectors are green, the wires may not be. They should be easy to get to. Look under the dash, above the accelerator pedal. They'll probably be hanging down. Unplug them from each other. They look like the ones on the right in the picture (click on the link): http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads/Knowledge/EU_WRX03_flash_connectors.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 The connectors are green, the wires may not be. They should be easy to get to. Look under the dash, above the accelerator pedal. They'll probably be hanging down. Unplug them from each other. They look like the ones on the right in the picture (click on the link): http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads/Knowledge/EU_WRX03_flash_connectors.gif cool thanks now i know what to look for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 When was the last time the engine ran? Did you swap the engine harness from your old engine when you did the JDM swap? If not, it's possible the wiring is different. if a wire wasnt right on the crank sensor what would it do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 It would likely not start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 I checked a lot of stuff today, I puled my engine just to check a few things. Also the two green plugs were pluged in now it dosent click and carry on. Every thing is apart right now but its going back together to do more testing from ecu .Iim actualy working on an 86 subaru automatic to manule swap and its hard to go back and forth between cars . Im puting my gt back together knoing that it is definetley an electrical issue . and am confident that with the help of everyone on this forum i can get my subie back on the road. So thanks to all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 It would likely not start. got my subie runing last week. When i wired the crank sensor got it backwards .... Some times it can be the most simple things .now to apalogise to the company i got my motor from for the cusing and hell raising i put on them . but i will addmit i was wrong but any ways it running and got a lot of power its freky fast didnt expect that. thanks to all ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Some times it can be the most simple things . . . . Ain't it the truth! That's great news, thanks for letting us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Glad it was a simple fix and you got it running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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