firstsubi Posted December 19, 2010 Author Share Posted December 19, 2010 another thing i was thinking was possibly the o2 sensor but it sounds like the car can run without an o2 even being hooked up.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 another thing i was thinking was possibly the o2 sensor but it sounds like the car can run without an o2 even being hooked up.? O2 sensor only comes into play once the car has warmed up - cold starts it is not a factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 ok - sounds like we are back to the beginning again you did mention that the CEL has come on so lets start there - FWIW - the EA series does NOT blink codes at the CEL on the dash - you will need to remove the panel under the drivers side dash to see the ECU and get codes from the LED located there. there should be some test connector plugs under the hood behind the drivers side strut tower (depending on the year, they could be under the dash) it has been a while, so someone correct me if I am wrong... to get stored codes: plug the black connectors together, turn key to the normal "run" position (do not start!) watch the LED on the ECU for flashes - long flash = 10, short flash = 1 it will flash all stored codes with a pause between codes and will repeat the sequence so be patient and make sure you have them all and you have them correct. I believe there is a listing of the codes & what they are in the USRM...yup, see here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstsubi Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 So the car is running now again, but it just seems to run when it wants and doesn't when it doesn't. I'm off tomorrow and going to really look at the coil and maybe replace the cap and rotor. noticed the negative terminal on the coil doesn't have a nut holding the wires tight. what size is the nut?? found one that looked the right size but wouldn't fit. maybe the last person cross threaded it and thats y there isn't one on there now? idk. but put some tape on it as a temporary solution to see if it helps untill i can make it to the store. I'm hopeing the loose cable on the coil is the problem but it never had a nut on the terminal and never acted up before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 So the car is running now again, but it just seems to run when it wants and doesn't when it doesn't. I'm off tomorrow and going to really look at the coil and maybe replace the cap and rotor. noticed the negative terminal on the coil doesn't have a nut holding the wires tight. ... That will do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulpicard Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 2 points to remember here. First, read the CEL code off the ECU under the driver's dash. Second, find out what the code is telling you. Trust me on this one, and you'll find that these TBI EA82's are pretty simple to work with, once you make use of the CEL codes. That said, you might have found the prob. with the unsecured coil wire as has been said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstsubi Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 went to the hardware store right after work and picked up a $.90 wing nut and put it on the negative terminal of the coil and it seems to be working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstsubi Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Starting to think that leaving the Tbelt covers off might not be the best bet for me... First nite driving in the snow and only about 5 inches with bigger drifts but the car went into a drift and stalled. When I tried starting it again it was real slow at turning and wouldn't bump start. Had it towed to the garage and they said both timing belts had jumped.. :-\ any ideas what a normal garage should charge to do a tbelt job?? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulpicard Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Starting to think that leaving the Tbelt covers off might not be the best bet for me... First nite driving in the snow and only about 5 inches with bigger drifts but the car went into a drift and stalled. When I tried starting it again it was real slow at turning and wouldn't bump start. Had it towed to the garage and they said both timing belts had jumped.. :-\ any ideas what a normal garage should charge to do a tbelt job?? thanks When I first got the 92, I had a belt break on the road 100 miles from home. $400 later it was fixed, at a reputable shop. 2 belts, an idler and a bearing changed on a tensioner (or vice-versa, I forget now) Parts were Beck-Arnley, maybe $100, rest was labour and taxes. That was in 2008. I have thought about leaving the covers off, but decided against it as I live in snow country as well. One thing the shop did at the time was use anti-seize on the cover screws. I have since changed out the other idler bearing, the cam oil seals, and the gaskets in the oil pump. Cover screws were easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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