Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Sign in to follow this  
soobies

set up the timing belt correctly but still back fires wont start

Recommended Posts

it's running better now then - it's now starting?

 

what made it better then exactly? that might help narrowing down the next step.

 

vacuum leak?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes its starting but not quite there yet..

i managed to get it going and have it idling at 1500 rpm by set of weight on the pedal then i sprayed some carb cleaner around the vaccums to see if it would rev more or less. nope it aint that so back to trouble shooting again lol ill do it tomorrow i know disty is spot on . maybe i am off by one plug wire will double check tomorrow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it's running better now then - it's now starting?

 

what made it better then exactly? that might help narrowing down the next step.

 

vacuum leak?

 

somebody prodded it and tweeked it beyond my comphrension.

so what i did was i reset the timing , reset the disty re done the wire

now it starts but i have to floor it then crank it and it fights to get started then starts and then wont idle how ever if i feather it to rev a little up to 1500 rpm it runs fine with me holding the throttle at 1500 rpm

 

:confused:

Edited by soobies

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is the gas really old, might be bad gas if it's been sitting a long time?

 

if i feather it to rev a little up to 1500 rpm it runs fine with me holding the throttle at 1500 rpm

 

:confused:

vacuum leak is a quick 1 minute test and i've seen those cause that same thing (which i described earlier i think i even used the same "feather" to describe it).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fresh gas! i just put in like 2 gallons into it and i did get rid of all of the old gas and used it on my snowblower just to use em up

 

ok what do i have to do to do a leak test ? i sprayed carb cleaner allover along the vaccum hoses, and the base of the intake where fi is at

no changes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thank you for pointing me in right direction .

 

seems like i have never ending problem! i only paid like 20 bucks into it not bad for a free car... new belt already in it and that 20 bucks i have is also the new belts so i am saving it just in case if it breaks again

 

These aren't problems.. these are learning opportunities!

You got the rig at the right price FREE! Now you just sprinkle in the experience end of this and learning to fix it and you will have a dependable work and play car. After a few more trials and "learning opportunities" you will go from a Jed to a Jedi on these rigs!

Edited by Indrid cold

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i bumped something in the power steering area was checking to make sure everything was fine but not sure which one the engine just started idle higher

and i tried repeating the prodecure no repeated results..

i dont know what the hell did i bump anyway back to trouble shooting

 

still hard to start it starts but you have to keep it on gas at 1500 rpm itll run smoothly but below that .. it DIES miserably

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you probably bumped the Idle Air Control valve on the front of the throttle body, its wire, or the hose that goes between it and the intake boot.

 

try pulling the hose and see if the car idles up.

 

other possibilities will be the engine temp sensor, the one with the green plug and 2 wires on the thermostat housing. Try unplugging it to force the car into close loop mode and see if that acts different.

 

also, it is possible that the intake gasket is bad. you should be able to replace them withoug having to disconnect too much from the intake itself, its easy enough to do.

 

I had a carb motor that would no idle, andif it did, would stalll by the time i could grab 2nd gear. after rebuilding the carb 3 times, i replaced the intake gaskets and that cured my problem

 

the intake is designed to come off in one piece, and you only have to mofe it up enough to slip in the new gaskets(and to scrape off the old ones)

 

aside from all that, you certainly have the timing and ignition right by your descriptions.

 

do searches for IAC or 'idle air control'

 

I would still bet on intake gaskets myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

brand new sparkies.. all ngk's

the wire i was moving was two wires goes straight on the throttle body the top ones ill go check again in few days and to let you know a little more history of the car

 

the old owner bought the car was running perfectly then broke down took it to the drive way left the car parked for a year or so due to a bad cv joints

then he had money to get every thing new.. cv joints, spark plugs rotor cap and disty cap new belt in when he tried to fix it he got the cv fixed

and put in new stuff in .. then he messed with just about everything to get it going

out of blue he just gave it to me said you can have it i hate subies

and bought a new car..

day one since i joined on here looked through the fourms got everything resetted timing belt was off by one... wires were ripped out left hanging on the tire re do the timing on the disty got it fixed and the cap was spun .. screw came off from the disty

thats how i acquired the car :D not bad for couple days of me getting the car running..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are on the right track, and a valiant effort! By the time you are done with this one, there should be nothing stopping your confidence from taking on more.

 

The 2 wire you mentioned would go tho the idle air control valve. Try doing the sea foam trick if the wires are not broken. The iac might just be stuck. (search sea foam)

 

if you take off the hose and pour a little sea foam in the tube, the sea foam should fill it up. once you turn the key, the valve will open and the sea foam will go inside. if it does not, then you will know if the idle air control valve is not working.

 

If you take up the alternator, you can easily get at the IAC with a phillips screwdriver and take it off to soak in seafoam or disassemble it to clean out any junk. This part is easy enough to replace by finding one at the junkyard, or a forum member having one laying around. do not go try and purchase one new, unless you want to pay some ridiculous price for a part that is no longer in production. The only thing that should fail on this part is the wires or their solders.

 

good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok will check into that although its a fuel injected.

and which hose do i pull off and pour seafoam in ?

Edited by soobies

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Main Hose, the one that comes from the Air Filter Box. By the Way: The Air Filter could be Clogged enough to not allow the Engine to Breath Normally, Have you Checked That?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't remember right now which way the disty spins, but I was in pretty much the same boat tryin to get my ea82 running after I did head gaskets on it. Anyway, I had the firing order right but I had the wires backwards on the disty and it was causing just about the same symptoms you're describing. You might try taking the cap off the disty just to make sure you know what way it's spinning.

Edited by nickolai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I can't remember right now which way the disty spins, but I was in pretty much the same boat tryin to get my ea82 running after I did head gaskets on it. Anyway, I had the firing order right but I had the wires backwards on the disty and it was causing just about the same symptoms you're describing. You might try taking the cap off the disty just to make sure you know what way it's spinning.

 

it goes ccw i know its already on right i followed the manual book so it cant be it i wiggled the wire it revs up some

and even down too as well so i a m going to clean the sucker up some how

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

low coolant, due to a bad intake gasket, or possibly a blown head gasket pushing combustion gasses into the radiator.

 

do a compression test. if the compression is good, then you would be looking at the intake gaskets.

 

look for bubbles in the radiator wen the car is running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

humm... ill check it out tomorrow and it looked like its kinda foamy

when i checked the coolant

earlier ill check into it tomorrow to make sure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beside the Mechanical Belt Driven Fan, that has Fan Clutch (Which could be worn don't letting the fan to Spin as Fast as it must be) there should be an Electric fan that only comes on when Temp reaches above 1/2 or when A/C is Workin'

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok thank you loyale .. i think i am going to pull the motor out in spring or find myself a garage and redo all the

gaskets just to make sure i cover all of the base on the engine and one side i dont like the looks of it is caked in oil on passenger side. so might as well do them all at once while its out then i will know that i done them all and dont have to hunt down the leaks and for my peice of peace on my mind although i do have garage up at the cabin.. but cant get there snow is too deep up there no plow to do the drive way

 

theres no mechanical belt driven fan on the sub.. just the electric fan would that be the problem ?

Edited by soobies

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There would be a machanical clutch fan, unless your car came with no ac from the factory and 2 alternator belts, then there would be no clutch fan.

 

A clutch fan can be retrofitted on for reliability.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it has ac but someone took it out dont see the ac compressor and 2 alternator belts on it so that could be why i am overheating

no mechanical fan on it

Edited by soobies

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll Like to See a Picture of your Subie... Specially of its Engine bay to see that setup.

 

Could you post one? Maybe there's something else Wrong, and a Pic could help to Figure it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'll Like to See a Picture of your Subie... Specially of its Engine bay to see that setup.

 

Could you post one? Maybe there's something else Wrong, and a Pic could help to Figure it out.

 

will take pic in few minutes and and i kinda think it doesnt look right it could be a replacement engine. and ill take the pic of the car too as well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×