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MilesFox

86 3door Runabout:FWD<FT4WD, 4 lug<5lug, EA82 carb<EJ22 or ER27 swap, rust removal

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since we are talking about combatting the rust...

 

my cavernous wells were repaired with about a gallon and a half of fiberglass resin jelly, chicken wire, fiberglass mat, and some sheet metal and rivets, a coat of POR15, and a coat of non rubberized undercoating, im going to check it all after winter and see what i have to go back and redo. i know the wheel arches need some help, i accidently hit one iwth my bowling bag and busted a small hole. :mad:

 

wish i knew more about metal work when i did this but its pretty damn solid at its current state.

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I started seam welding the trailing arms. I had to replace the tip on my welder to get a clean weld. I have to take pics of this yet.

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Hey Fox, i was thinkin about that seam welding... are there holes up the arm at all that could take on water and need to have the ability to let the water drain out the holes you are welding up?

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There are holes on the rear trailing arm right by the pivot bushing, and where the backing plate bolts to. The holes for the backing plate bolts goes through, and i am going to inject a shot of oil into them at i bolt them up, since i welded up the open ends.

 

The rest of the seam welding is simply to melt any overlapping stampings together to prevent rust from forming in between and de-laminating the metal.

 

I found gravel powder packed into the brake line retainer ears. I cleaned them out with a pick and welded them up, to 'seal' out rust with the weld.

 

Also, on the shock mount, i welded up the stampings to prevent crust from sitting on the insides and rusting the stampings on the inside opposite of the welds.

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i shoudlnt have said 'seam welding' i should have referenced the holes next to the pivot bushing. but in all actuality, i was thinking of the wrong part of the car in general. LOL>

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Well since I am FINALY feeling good, I will be down by you this weekend Fox. I will also bring my camera and snap some pictures of everything for ya.

 

 

I could come down during the week, by wouldn't be able to hang around long since I work about 5pm.

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Cant wait to get the brat in there for some of the same treatment.

 

how about u-bolts for mounting that fuel pump? you'd have to have access to the backside for the nuts, but i could thing of a few places to hide it.

 

I'm thinking about these for when i re-do the brat

http://www.jcwhitney.com/custom-fit-rubber-fender-flare-sets/p2008756.jcwx?filterid=d16935y1984j1&_requestid=9777545

 

so i can cut out the wheel wells a bit bigger without it looking too ************ty. 3" is a big flare, but they look pretty adaptable.

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Actually, these i mean.

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/rubber-fender-extensions-fender-flares/p2008750.jcwx?skuId=142816&filterid=j1

 

you can get a 25 foot roll of the stuff for 75 bucks, not sure if that would be enough to do more than one car or not.

 

Personally, i think it would be a pretty rad way to cut out all my wheel arch cancer, and re-attach the inner fender to the quarter panel.

 

Cant wait for that frickin' tax return!

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I think 25ft. would be more then enough for 2 or more cars.

 

Here is another link to the same product.

http://www.autobarn.net/pac52170.html?site=google_base

 

 

Actually, these i mean.

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/rubber-fender-extensions-fender-flares/p2008750.jcwx?skuId=142816&filterid=j1

 

you can get a 25 foot roll of the stuff for 75 bucks, not sure if that would be enough to do more than one car or not.

 

Personally, i think it would be a pretty rad way to cut out all my wheel arch cancer, and re-attach the inner fender to the quarter panel.

 

Cant wait for that frickin' tax return!

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Yeah i looked at the different styles. it would be $70 for the 'heavy duty' 3". I want the one that mounts against the inner fender lip rather than the one that mounts flush, because If i have to cut my fenders out bigger, it will give it more clearance and help tie the inner fender plastic into the steel, rather than having to mount it on the face of the fender. I'm already missing most of the clips that hold the plastic inner fender to the steel quarter panel due to cancer. I loves me some stainless-steel pop rivets.

 

Wire reinforced would be nice too, but some guy on the JCW reviews said that the 'heavy duty' has the hole for the wire, you just have to push some wire through it. Save a little$$ that way.

 

Also started looking at the toyota 6-lug conversion. totally the way to go in my opinion. I've never liked how the 5 lug re-drilling works because of how close it comes to the old bolt holes in some places. The 6-lug makes much more sense to me, and 4runner parts are a dime a dozen in junk yards.

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3door coupe. gl. 1986. same body as an rx coupe or loyale rs, less the wing, body kit, and turbo. On my wisconsin title, it shows 'runabout' in the body type, hence my term.

 

If you want to know more, it has an ea82 carb, brown interior, fwd 5spd. It already has a 4wd wagon suspension, and is getting 5 lugs.

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It's kind of an oldschol term for 'hatchback' But we all know that on USMB, 'hatchback' refers to an ea81 hatch, and 3-door refers to the ea82.

 

The ford pinto had a 'runabout' version

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3door coupe. gl. 1986. same body as an rx coupe or loyale rs, less the wing, body kit, and turbo. On my wisconsin title, it shows 'runabout' in the body type, hence my term.

 

If you want to know more, it has an ea82 carb, brown interior, fwd 5spd. It already has a 4wd wagon suspension, and is getting 5 lugs.

 

it acutally says Runabout? thats pretty cool!

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So i was going to do this today:

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-remove-rust

 

But all of the running water is frozen! I ran out of welding wire trying to finish my trailing arms. I got under the car to knock off some of the undercoating and the surface rust. The rear floor seams are rusting out. Maybe I will go as far as pulling the rear seats and carpet up to get at all this. But only if i have all the materials to go back together with it. I am starting to contemplate whether or not it is worth that much effort, though.

 

My decision to remove the interior will be based on how much room around the shop i have to keep all the stuff from getting nasty and ruined.

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miles if tried doing the electric rust removal, it helps to have an older battery charger, some of the newer ones dont seem to send juice unless its hooked up to a battery, you need check and see if the battery charger will "shoot sparks" when you tap the positve and negative clamps together.

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oh man, bonerkill! forgot about the water, looks like we better get rolling on that woodstove STAT.

 

I have some copper tubing at work that i might be able to devo to make a water heating coil. i'm also going to grab another 5 gal bucket of hyd. oil to make heater juice out of.

 

all i need now is a chunk of heavy steel plate for the door, and some stovepipe to vent it out. the rest we can probably cobble. maybe this saturday we can make progress on it.

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Fox, don't give up like that. I would pull some of the interior to get at as much rust as possible. I have pulled the rear interior out of my Wagon to do the wheel well tops. Just be gental and all will be well.

 

If you do want a safe place to store the interior parts, I would be more then willing to take them home and set them in my basement until you'd need them. God knows I have lots'O room.

 

I also have a few random EA82 clips, so if you need some let me know.

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