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86 3door Runabout:FWD<FT4WD, 4 lug<5lug, EA82 carb<EJ22 or ER27 swap, rust removal


MilesFox
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I got the framerail on the one side of the 3door 95% finished and then i ran out of wire. I forgot to take a picture. I think i have radiation sickness form the uv and xrays. I cut my helmet down to handheld and replaced the lens. And with spare tims, my welds are much better now.

 

I made my tools portable, and now i can brek down the control arms in my backyard and degrease them, por15 them in the rusty parts, and paint hte rest chassis black, available in the can at napa.

 

I am using a zink weld-thru prime as illustrated in a particular u-tube series on bodywork.

 

I am together enogh i can mount the radius rod plate to the body. I am debating to do all the seam welds, and instead of welding on the edges, i am thinking f spot welding between the spots, for more penetration and a cleaner look. I am going to seam weld the radius rod plate body tampings, trans mount stamping, pitch bar mount, and around the strut towers. I may go down the whole trans tunnel. I will have to treat surface rust along the trans tunnel, and mount the xt6 shifter before installing the trans.

 

I may go with mounting the trans, mount, and pitch bar to the body before installing the engine crossmember __________________

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this thing is pissin me off so far, ugly rump roast welds and stupid home depot metal that burns through.

 

The finished one in the pic welded up like a dream. The other side is being a pain, being on the wrong side for my right-handed ness, and it's trying my pationce.

 

I broke my phone and left the shop to get some tobacco. I feel better now. I hope to finish it tonite.

 

Sorry, no pics, because i broke my phone. I guess that's what cameras are for, if i can find the charger to it.

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Welding galvanized metal makes poisonous gas, that explains a lot.:lol:

 

haha, thats what i said after he told what he used too!

 

 

 

FOx, this is a situation where a car lift would be useful, get the thing up higher for access

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I resorted to cutting sections from the xt6. I t welded up much better. The home depot metal must be different or thinner than what i had last time...

 

 

I got the driver side framerail built and tacked up and called it a day. All i need to do now is fully weld and grind down, and build the last part of the jack support.

 

Then i'm onto de-rusting the trans trunnel and seam welding the trans/suspension mount stampings.

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I am interested in seam sealing structural parts of the body that hold the trans, pitch bar, strut towers and raduis rod plates for overall stability, and taking the opportunity to do all of this while the car is just a hollow body.

 

For stiffness, not rust.

 

and just whre it is necessary, to save labor.

 

I am so tired of welding, i will be blind and deaf by the time i am done.

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Don't get your self blind, you won't be able to drive that beast later on.

 

To add to stiffness, I wonder if you can retrofit an old Strut tower bar from a Legacy/Impreza?

 

But then, all old Subarus did come with their own tower bar, Its called the spare tire support..! :lol:

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Don't get your self blind, you won't be able to drive that beast later on.

 

To add to stiffness, I wonder if you can retrofit an old Strut tower bar from a Legacy/Impreza?

 

But then, all old Subarus did come with their own tower bar, Its called the spare tire support..! :lol:

 

haha. i wonder if you could modify the spare tire bar, and just weld in a piece connecting the 2 90 degree bends with some metal stock.

or weld in a solid piece the entire height and use a torch and cut someting out of it, like "catch this fox"

 

 

although that would relenquish the idea of keepin the spare tire in there (where the turbo goes!)

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Aside from the orientation of the intake tube, the tire would fit around a turbo, but would have to go for a TMIC.

 

For a strut bar, i would prefer to find an SPT or STI factory option one, for originality/most retrofitability to real subaru parts.

 

I am thinking about rear e-brake setup, that i would have to modify the handle or ditch it, and maybe make a modification to the trans tunnel for the rearward cables. I can try to fit the 03 outback stuff and see what that does.

 

and then i cn get the sti handle for imprezas to look right with the rest of the car. if there was a leather rown one, that would be sweet!

 

I am thinking of a leather wrap for the steering wheel. kind of stodgy, but it's non-permanent

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I gave up on the seam welding as i burned a hole in the floor on my 3rd weld. I decided it's not necessary or beneficial unless this car was caged and prepped for stage rally.

 

I went ahead and undercoated the trans tunnel, por 15's the shifter linkage, modified and hybrided my trans xmember to have double mounts, and stripped the firewall and de-rusted it.

 

Next step is to wash the engine bay with soap and water, and por 15.

 

i have custom mixed color match paint on its way, #569 Metallic Brown and some pro grade clearcoat to repaint the engine bay.

 

From there, i am ready to install the trans. in the meantime, i need to install the shifter. I am using the xt shifter which is quite complicated, so i need to mount it to the body first.

 

i am doing the electrolysis on the suspension pieces, so once the paint is applied, i can go ahead and assemble the engine cradle and control arms

 

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XT6 brake booster compared to the ea82. I will have to do a modification similar to shawn w's crossbred performance kit. I am going to compare pedal boxes and see if i can swap the pedal. otherwise, i will have to cut and weld

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So how were you able to mod the rear most mounting brace on the crossmember?

 

I forgot to take it with me to mock up. I was going to bolt up the front and center to the body, and bolt up the original cover plate piece that would otherwise be the at trans mount, drill my holes, and back it with some 1/8 flat stock to beef it up, and call that my mount.

 

It also looks like the trans mount on scott's 2000 legacy AT looks to be the same part as the xt6, but in much better shape. I am going to try and use that, and cram it full of 3M windo-weld

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I had more pics, but when people randomly find my amera and view it, they delete them somehow, for f* sake:mad:

 

Here are the struts that came from my donor xt, with some sloppy coilover setup, compared to a complete pull off xt6 strut

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Here is the spring that was on the silver kyb strut, it was about 6 inches shorter than the travel of the strut. The KYB iis about 2 inches longer below the perch, and about 2 inches longer in travel

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And here we have a double coilover with the aftermarket hardware shoved inside an original xt6 strut and spring. The xt6 struts are manufactured by tockico. I wish i had some pink paint to paint the inner spring, but i am broke right now. But this whole thing may come apart for either kyb AGX struts, or oem sti struts

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