cj7135 Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 I'm having a real dilemma here. My OBW rides very nicely, and is cosmetically in very decent shape (considering it has 392,000 on it). One job i've never tried is changing the gas tank. It's been leaking for a while now when i fill it over 1/2, and I've done some tests to figure out where from. it's leaking from the seam halfway down the tank. I was fine with that, since I picked this car up for 100$ (needed a headgasket but I threw an EJ22 in there and away she went). I was under there trying to change my wheel bearing in a very difficult manner (since the lateral links are seized tight) and noticed one of the straps have fallen off I've been able to hide the gas leak from the authorities so far, but I don't need my gas tank falling out while I'm driving. I need to know this: 1. How to change the tank (I've searched the forums for hours but found nothing that tells me which parts to remove, what order to remove them in, etc). I'm hoping somebody will tell me that it's not that bad of a job, since I have just basic tools (impact, socket set, screw drivers, etc). 2. Can the rear differential be removed without removing the CV axles first? (As i said, my lateral link bolts are seized, and will probably remain that way). 3. If, upon further investigation, the fuel lines are rotten, how hard are they to change? I noticed all 3 fuel lines are held on with little clamps, so I am wondering if it's too hard to replace the lines can I just put a long hose with a clamp to where the lines are good? I'm hoping somebody will be able to help me out, as I'm currently working with a very tight budget and very little tools/space. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 It's not a very enjoyable job, I'll tell you that much. You'll be pulling the entire rear cradle down first. I've done about three of them now, I hope you have air I can't remember about the axles, but that whole assembly, rear and all is coming down. They might just stay in with it. Leave the struts attached to the hubs and just remove the 3 12's on each strut cap. Remember to remove all the brackets that hold the brake lines to the trailing arms and leave the calipers hang with the car. Unplug the abs sensors under your rear seat and leave them with the hubs. Because you *will break the bolts trying to remove the sensors from the hub. There are a number of large bolts (19's and 17's) holding the rear cradle and rear driveline up. After you get that dropped out of the way, the tank is even more fun trying to maneuver it down. It's not just going to fall out That's most of the job, I just got done and don't feel like thinking any more. Maybe someone else will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Rather then swap out the gas tank, on other cars, not a Subaru, I have sanded and cleaned the leaky area around the seam very well, then used JB Weld to seal the leak. It has worked surprisingly well, but the air temp needs to be above 70 degrees F to get the JB Weld to harden, or do this inside a heated garage. The key is to get the area where you apply the JB Weld extremely clean, then let it harden up for several days before filling up with gas to where it was leaking. As far as the broken strap, I would use a large nylon cable tie, or a series of them linked together to form a strap. I would strap it around in several different locations to assure a good tie down. Have you applied PB Blaster, then let it sit for an hour, then use an impact gun on those frozen bolts, if you still want to do that. I bought an electric impact gun from Harbor Freight tools on the cheap. It does a surprisingly good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) OP lives in the Great White North (literally)! This may be more available where he lives: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/2/CordedPowerTools/CordlessImpactDrivers/PRD~0541216P/Mastercraft%252B3KO%252BCorded%252BImpact%252BWrench.jsp?locale=en or http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/2/CordedPowerTools/CordlessImpactDrivers/PRD~0091522P/Impact%252BWrench%25252C%252B12V/CROSSSELL~0541216%20Mastercraft%2B3KO%2BCorded%2BImpact%2BWrench.jsp?locale=en or shipped http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/power-tools/corded/impact-wrenches/8130288-1/2-electric-impact-wrench Closest Harbor Freight is a couple of days drive away. I vote for the JB Weld and strap option. Edited March 9, 2011 by Mike104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 MAybe the filler tube has a leak. This is more common. There is a shield over the filler tube. Remove it, and inspect for rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 What do you mean hanging on the top of the tank? Go in the access panel under the rear seat, and disconnect your fuel pump and sender connectors and that's all. These are under the passenger side access panel. If you want to pull the tank, remove the fuel lines underneath the car on the driver's side, near the front of the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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