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monstaru

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I had the same leak problem. sealed the top of the brake lights with caulk and the puddles stopped.

I've looked into getting the 220 low torque regrinds from delta cam for my non-roller style heads. They come with shims, wasn't sure if the roller style came with shims too.

Edited by impoutback 97

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So I am driving yesterdayand look down to see how much I was speeding from thhe feel of it,and realize the speedo is erratic.And when i say erratic it was from 0 to 60 in like, a nanosecond.:lol:

UhOH, :)damnit, ************ ************ damn....is what I thought.

Then finally had a chance to take a look, seems to be from the speedo cable(trans end) that had come loose.Hopefully that is the culprit because it iis throwing a code for the speed sensor so it wanted to force it into limp mode.

LA-ame, especially going down the freeway:banghead:

 

It SEEMS that BEcause the two codes are combined ( 0743, and 1507, with the occasional 1540) the vehicle exhibited absolute detriment.It failed to stay running at one point and loaded the torque converter down with fluid and had absolutely nuthin.Ok, damnit, WTF do i do now.Still rolling, ************ , neutral .start the car, starts, no codes( due to my on the fly code clearing)runs fine.Come on baby just one more block to work and I don't have to leave you to the vultures.

pull in to gas station, damn, so close.got like 15 minutes till work.Half block away.Go inside,get recovery drink.Walk out.clear codes again.Take off like a bat out of hell due to my anticipation of bogged down nature .Crazy.Work, on time.

 

Damnit it's afternoon and I have to get home....:banghead:Gottta get to an appt. directly.I5 , her I come.Haulin rump roast, musta clearedd about 5 sets of codes to get her there.

Got home, checked out the cable, then snugged her up.Then came in.

 

I really need to fix this damn leak.

 

************:DDamn, I have to work on my car.:)

cheers

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I had the same leak problem. sealed the top of the brake lights with caulk and the puddles stopped.

I've looked into getting the 220 low torque regrinds from delta cam for my non-roller style heads. They come with shims, wasn't sure if the roller style came with shims too.

 

To be honest , I didna assemble the heads , so I didna pay attention very much to that end of it.Shims you say?Maybe have to do with HLA's?I don't have those , so.................

:-\

:grin:

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I also had a leak problem with the rear windshield washer hose, maybe that's it. imt willing to bet its the tail light

I KNOW the leak is from the taillight.I found it 6 months ago, and thought I had fixed it.It is beyond "fixing",I need to tear it out.I used gasket maker.I need to get some urethane like they use from the factory.

I hardly ever come here asking for little things like that, because I investigate before I post usually.Although I appreciate the sentiment,Mostly, I am not ever looking for input on my issues.Just on the radness:drunk::lol:

 

On to a better note, It still drives.:lol:And runs like a raped ape.

Get the transmission issue fingered out, and I should be static for a while.

 

cheers

Edited by monstaru

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Like a raped ape, that's an understatement! This thing is a BEAST considering the meats he's got on it for tires! 29" tires, and the thing moves likes it's stock, if not faster. All that torque makes a BIG difference in the responsiveness of the car.

 

What was the trans issue you were having all of a sudden?

 

Sucky your tail light fix didn't work. FYI, I used 3M "Window Weld" for my sunroof (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=GS51JKDTTHgsQH8HT14PGTgl1ZRC9RGN5Fbl). This stuff is a black urethane that is super sticky and works really well and cures quickly. It's made to bond replacement windows to the cars body. It was $20 for a tube of it, but I have yet to have a leak from my sunroof since I fixed last year. I would give that stuff a try if you remove the light again.

 

We need to get the "diff lock" mod going for you too. That will make it all the more badass :)

 

If you need my garage again, just ask man!

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Well, I got tired of chasing codes down.

 

Started lookin at everything, and it seems that the speedo gear in the current transmission is toast.Not being able to do much with the company I bought it from on the weekend,I started wondering how fun it was going to drive itt home in limp mode, again.

 

Welp I guess it worked out because I found a trans on craigs list and quickly swooped it up.After looking at it and smelling fluids, and turning things, we were on our way.

Started installing it a couple hours later in Mugs garage.The dude is a rockstar.Kick rump roast plain and simple.

 

 

We got the old trans out and "new" one in 5 hours....

Edited by monstaru
umm, because?

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Ok , so the "new" new trans is working out.

I was leaving work on Tuesday and realized that the extremely CHU_UNK_EEE axle on my side front was not going to make it home.Went back to the shop and swapped it out for my spare and was on my way.

Sweet, no wobble., sweet, no codes!nice...

Ok so we have gotten about 14ish" of snow in Olympia this last day or so, and I went out today(no workie,pussies:)) and snow mobbed the livin hell out of her.It was pretty awesome.

 

I fully enjoyed myself.ifi do not work tomorrow I will surely go to capitol forest.

After driving around for most of the day, with lunch in between, I think that I defenitely found some boundaries.As well as figuring out that the car has serious torque, and power.It was hard for me to "keep" control, as it just wanted to break loose instantly.

Granted, it has an LSD rear.

And ok, the tires are not siped.

But damn, when I was flippin broadies ,i was hittin 6500rpm and had everything to go....It was nuts.

I think I might go to a poker run up at Elbe hills this weekend.I obviously won't be doing the trails at the end.But I might try to catch a ride with someone that does.

I had a stock OBS park next to me , well, one spot over.and when I looked at the difference, I think I am looking at a good 6 inches over stock.Next time I see one, I will get a comparison pic

cheers

Edited by monstaru

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True, True, Now is a great time to be a subie owner....a highly modified one is even better. :headbang:

 

The BRAT definitely had some snow time fun yesterday as well :burnout:

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Hey, the car is looking great! Did you use the Outback pitch rod or does the stock one suffice when dropping the front? I'm lifting my obs and Ive heard mixed opinions. some say you need the outback one because it's longer and others say you can just loosen the stock one a bit to lengthen it and tighten it back up. Either way I need to drop my front a little because forester struts + 1" lift blocks is going to increase cv angles. Have you busted any cv's yet? thanks

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Hey Brian, I was thinking about getting a set of those adjustable lateral links to correct the camber issues I have with the lift on my 98 Forester. How far do you have yours adjusted out? Is there still enough "play" in the cv axle travel? I just would hate to adjust them out and have the cv axles fail because they don't have enough travel in the cup. Thanks

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Hey Brian, I was thinking about getting a set of those adjustable lateral links to correct the camber issues I have with the lift on my 98 Forester. How far do you have yours adjusted out? Is there still enough "play" in the cv axle travel? I just would hate to adjust them out and have the cv axles fail because they don't have enough travel in the cup. Thanks

 

I thought he removed them as the racket from the heims is pretty annoying.

 

 

Either way, we have TSS Fab lateral links on the Ziptie Rally #171. They're pretty sweet, but we got the car aligned, but one side was adjusted too far out, and it kept popping the axle out of the rear diff ('04 STi running gear). We adjusted them in, to solve the axle issue, and the camber was not effected.

201109052171-L.jpg

 

 

I would not use lateral links to try to adjust camber. You'll have axle issues before you fix your camber issue. Also.....those heim joints are SOOOOO loud. I would not want those on anything but a dedicated race car.

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Yeah I wondered about that. The only reason I was thinking about it was because if I add camber bolts in the rear, the inner part of the lower spring perch on the strut will hit the body. So I was just looking for a way to get the bottom of the tire out to help with the camber.

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Yeah I wondered about that. The only reason I was thinking about it was because if I add camber bolts in the rear, the inner part of the lower spring perch on the strut will hit the body. So I was just looking for a way to get the bottom of the tire out to help with the camber.

I removed my "custom " ones, due to heim noise.

The blue ones are doin good.No noise, plenty of room for adjustment.

cheers, b

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I've had that same blue set on my Impreza for almost 3 years now and there still doing fine, tight and no noise I have noticed.

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Yeah I wondered about that. The only reason I was thinking about it was because if I add camber bolts in the rear, the inner part of the lower spring perch on the strut will hit the body. So I was just looking for a way to get the bottom of the tire out to help with the camber.

 

BFH

 

pretty much have to to run a camber correct rear strut top lift over 2"

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BFH

 

pretty much have to to run a camber correct rear strut top lift over 2"

 

Yeah I know I can smash it a bunch and have things fit. But even a camber correct strut top lift would have caused issues with them hitting.

 

Brian, or Ioku, is there any chance you could post a link for the lateral links you guys have? And in your experience, did they help with the camber issue? Thanks guys

 

 

And sorry for the high jack, just figured I'd ask you in your thread, where some of the info was posted!

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But even a camber correct strut top lift would have caused issues with them hitting.

 

 

Yeah, that's what I meant. If you do straight blocks, i.e. a camber incorrect lift, it works fine no bashing.

 

you wanna drop the strut correctly, and keep proper camber.....you gotta bash. The body flares out there below the factory mount, so if you wanna bring the strut top down you gotta make room. No way around it unless maybe you run the wider STI rear track.

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Yeah, that's what I meant. If you do straight blocks, i.e. a camber incorrect lift, it works fine no bashing.

 

you wanna drop the strut correctly, and keep proper camber.....you gotta bash. The body flares out there below the factory mount, so if you wanna bring the strut top down you gotta make room. No way around it unless maybe you run the wider STI rear track.

 

Well the STi lateral links are the same width as a Forester XT, and I'm assuming other GD models as well. So I guess I could swap lateral links with a newer model. I already have my stock Forester XT rear axles that will go right in.

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I seriously bought the cheapest set of links I found on fleEbay.I had original intentions of only using them for a couple pf months, but they are actually pretty strong.And quiet.

 

It seems to me that they are cosmetically damaged goods from a decent manufacture.

cheers

 

And just FYI, I have straight blocks that did NOT clear the body.had to bash.....I was able to get my car aligned by a Subaru tech at Hanson Subaru here locally that use to work on rally cars ,He was able to do my alignment with just the links , and camber bolts.Said it worked out fine.

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Well the STi lateral links are the same width as a Forester XT

 

 

ummm....no. Pretty sure GD sedans are wider than Foresters....

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