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its very doubtful his timing just went off, simply by replacing a valve cover gasket.

 

if you read how his problem started, he had a oil leak so he replaced the valve cover gasket. While the airbox was out, and off, Ben cleaned the maf. It was running fine until those 2 things were done.

 

Now, how would the timing go off.

 

I think its maf related. If he had not cleaned the maf, his car would be fine.

 

Maf is dead perhaps. I read he then tried cleaning the maf again, maybe that was the death blow to the sensor in the maf.

Edited by bheinen74

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Please,

 

I know when his problem started, as he PMed me to look at his thread since no one else had any ideas. I am aware of what he took off and what he did.

 

By removing the air box/MAF and anything in the surrounding area, that is not going to cancel out the spark. I am thinking there a few things going on here and not caused by one issue.

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Its true brent that after the MAF was cleaned i started having the no start problems. But ive delt with bad MAFs before on other cars and they would always start and run just really badly. As of right now from what i can tell the fuel pump isnt coming on and the ignition is getting no spark. When we put alittle fuel in the throttle body to see if it would just pop over nothing happened. Not only was the throttle body bone dry but the disty had no spark coming to it either. I would think this would lead to a central problem causeing both things not to function at once. What that is i have no idea. Not saying that the MAF might not be a problem as to why it wasnt running good but i dont think thats not what the problem is now. Heres what I know now.

 

1. Fuel Pump Relay does click when ignition is turned on.

2. Fuel Pump is not primeing the system or turning on to start the car.

3. Spark is not getting to the distributor.

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There are a couple of things that might of been a death blow to whatever is going on. Remember bad regulator in the alternator. I logged 120 miles to brents house going around 60-85mph. With no alternator regulation that might of sent enough power to whatever to damage it. Then a few weeks latter it just goes kapoot.

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I walked 7 miles and sat on my car for a month before bothering to remove the disty cap and see if the rotor turned. What i tohought i was procrastinating was a broken timing belt, was in fact a loose set screw for the rotor.

 

check the simplest. Take off the disty cap and watch the rotor turn. It's too simple, and everyone with an ea82 should know to check this first.

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Ok i will do that but again i ask. Even if the timeing belt was broken, it still should be getting fuel correct. Not that it matters much but timeing belts were replaced 15k ago.

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The fuel pump will not operate withougt a pulse from the disty.

 

Otherwise, you should have flow if you manually trip the fuel pump. Try testing for flow by removing the line before the filter. Maybe the filter is junk.

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I wish i had someone here to check the disty while i cranked it over. Sometimes its hard to do this buy yourself.

So my timeing belt covers are in rough shape. But i can see both belts are on the pullys.

Passanger Side

picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=3058

picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=3057

Drivers Side

picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=3056

picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=3055

Edited by The Dude Abides

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Take a 3 ft piece of wire and jump the small tab on the starter from the battery. This way you can crank the motor from under the hood and watch everything

 

if the belt stripped teeth, it will hang up at the crank sprocket and not turn with the crank

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Im off to work but ill have a friend come over tonight or tomorrow and crank on the engine while i check things out.

 

 

The 3ft. piece of wire is a proven method, I have used it a few times, it works great.

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Anyone think of a crank angle sensor or a cam sensor.

 

EA82 does not have a Cam sensor. And I think only Turbo EA82s had crank sensors (Correct me if I'm wrong)

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crank sensor is the disy. Yo uget that code if the car is on but not running.

 

you could try replacing the disty, but only after a series of troubleshooting leads to it

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Guys do me a favor, look at the pictures of my timeing belts again. The cover thats really messed up look at the position the pully is. It looked pretty crooked to me and that is the side i changed the valve cover on. Is it possible i knocked it out of alignment.

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No i havent had a chance to get out there. Right now im working on getting the car to a friend. He has much more mechanical and electrical equipment around and used to work on subarus back in the day. I will check the disty before i do this though.

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Did you ever find out if your Disty is turning??

 

one....two-hoo...threee. The world may never now

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQohN1aGB27adL_10gnaW65zOne-BJNJbsc1mf2Qjmci1GeNapfdA

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one....two-hoo...threee. The world may never now

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQohN1aGB27adL_10gnaW65zOne-BJNJbsc1mf2Qjmci1GeNapfdA

 

LoL Ahh funny.

 

Checked the disty, rotor is secure and its rotating. Could the same theory be applied to testing the fuel pump. Run a cord from the power side of the pump to the battery to test if it works. Are there any other avenues i could check. If the computer was dead would the whole electrical system not work.

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Ok checked power to the fuel pump today. There is no power going to the fuel pump. Multimeter to 20dc grounded negative to the body and positive to the power supply on the pump. Nada, whats next.

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Complex manager came out today. Basically told me to move it or lose it. At least i can jocky it around the lot to different spaces.

Edited by The Dude Abides

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