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The guys at Car Quest warranty the gasket set and gaskets as well as the head bolts, so it takes the pain away a bit, but I'd like to do it once and not have to do the gaskets again....EVER!

 

Can someone clue me in on the part number for the new and improved factory gaskets? Searching through 7,234,701 posts was proving futile.

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The dealer has the latest version and P/N. Subarugenuineparts.com has good prices.

 

GL,

TD

 

I get the HG's and all seals at the dealer and ask for the latest torque procedures most every time.

 

Don't forget to check heads for true, or have them checked.

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The dealership replacement gaskets for almost all of the 2.5 NA engines is the 11044AA633. I don't think that you could get any other from a dealership even if you wanted to.

 

Although I have not yet had an HG replaced, the most knowligible posters [in my opinion] think that the engine should be removed and the heads trued up. Be aware that you are only allowed .002" out of flatness for the combined head and block!

 

Actually, it would probably be better for you to check what the track record of the repair place that you chose. Of course, this is very difficult to check. Good luck.

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Actually, I am the repair place. Is that P/N for a single gasket, or a set? Any preferred place to order online? Nearest dealer is a bit of a haul, but UPS stops at my door.

 

Why would I want to remove the engine? I've read that in a few posts, but I haven't found why that is necessary.

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just get a true bar and check the block, then have the heads decked, use dealer gaskets and headbolts if yours are stretched. i don't bother with chain parts for engine internal stuff. valve cover gaskets whatever ok, but no headgaskets/intake gaskets etc. :)

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Removing the engine makes the job a lot easier in my opinion, especially when it comes to dealing with the head bolts. You can't get all of the bolts all of the way out so it's a bear to deal with especially on the re-install with head bolts sliding all around as you fish the head down between the block and body/frame. Torquing to proper spec is also a lot easier, not to mention being able to see what you are doing better, and being able to clean the mating surface of the block better. Good time to check for leaky oil separator plate as well.

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You CAN do it in the car. I don't see how you can do as well of a job and it'd porbably actually take longer to get the same quality work.

 

Checking & cleaning up the block, checking it for true while in the car - I think is a compromise.

 

Trying to make sure no fluids get on the head gaskets when doing it in the car, etc.

 

Go ahead, do them in the car, and you'll be able to say you did it. But that's the only positive that I see doing it this way myself. I started to do one this way one time and lost patience and just pulled the engine.

 

And then you can reseal the baffle plate - which never hurts!

 

Don't get me wrong, you're the one doing the work. BUt I'd pull it.

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The guys at Car Quest warranty the gasket set and gaskets as well as the head bolts, so it takes the pain away a bit, but I'd like to do it once and not have to do the gaskets again....EVER!

 

Can someone clue me in on the part number for the new and improved factory gaskets? Searching through 7,234,701 posts was proving futile.

 

 

 

What year/model is the car? How many total miles and how many miles since the last HG set?

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If you have the place to do it, by all means pull the motor.

The dealer sells the HG as each, so you need 2. You don't have to replace the head bolts though.

If you decide to do it in car, give yourself an extra 2 hours.The passenger side is easy, but the driver's side is a REAL PITA to get back in.Frustrating to say the least.

5 of the bolts have to be in the block when reattaching.The upper left could be inserted after catching the other threads.

I used paper towels to keep the bolts from sliding all the way in, so I could manuever better. But you can use rubber bands or similar.

Don't hang the gasket until after you have the head basically in place, or you'll mess it up in the twenty attempts to line everything up.

To remove my egr pipe, I had to first remove the egr unit, to give me that 1/2 inch of movement I needed to use my 17mm flare.

I wouldn't have done it in car, but after the first time and having to do it again ( a long story for another time) I chose to do it in car.

 

O.

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It's a 98 Legacy wagon, 188k. Bought it with bad head gasket, changed the gaskets (in the car) about 3k miles later it spun a rod bearing:mad: Junkyard engine with 90k on it for $300, best change head gaskets (out of the car:) ) along with th eassociated machine work. Blew a gasket 5k later. This is an awful lot of head gasket changing for a winter beater.

 

I've been using Fel-pro's as they have been warrantied, but figure I'll use factory gaskets this time around.

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i assume this is a legacy GT with the 2.5L engine. i can't imagine a 2.2L engine having this much trouble.

 

your experience pretty much sums up what is said here every day about the ej25 headgaskets.

 

1. use subaru gaskets, the re-do rate seems to be higher with other breands.

2. if it's been severely overheated it can throw a rod or spin a bearing.

3. when buying a replacement ej25 engine do the gaskets before you install it. (see #2 above)

4. if buying an unknown engine,(see #2 & #3 above) you are safer with an ej22 swap.

 

some folks swear that the felpro gaskets are the same as subaru, but subaru gaskets are for sure subaru gaskets.

Edited by johnceggleston

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i assume this is a legacy GT with the 2.5L engine. i can't imagine a 2.2L engine having this much trouble.

 

your experience pretty much sums up what is said here every day about the ej25 headgaskets.

 

1. use subaru gaskets, the re-do rate seems to be higher with other breands.

2. if it's been severely overheated it can throw a rod or spin a bearing.

3. when buying a replacement engine do the gaskets before you install it. (see #2 above)

4. if buying an unknown engine,(see #2 & #3 above) you are safer with an ej22 swap.

 

some folks swear that the felpro gaskets are the same as subaru, but subaru gaskets are for sure subaru gaskets.

 

This should be a sticky. A lot of us answer it a lot of different ways, but this is what it boils down to. Infact there was a recent thread where someone was complaining we were "pushing" 2.2 swaps. Infact in a lot of circumstances they simply make the most sense.

 

Another note the HG's from Subaru aren't out of line price wise versus the Felpro's at a chain store. I also recommend the OEM crank, cam, WP seals/gaskets and oil pumo Oring while you're placing an order.

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