Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

Hello folks...I am about to install an automatic transmission in the above...any tips or tricks to make this go smooth..thanks for helping...;))

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there's really only one tip/trick - and that's to make absolutely certain the torque converter is fully seated before mating the engine/trans together.

 

people are often not getting it to seat the very last bit and that ends up ruining the transmission.

 

there are threads about seating the torque converter, i'd find a good one. one has nice pictures i think. i just seated a 97 or 98 OBW torque converter a few days ago for a friend.

 

here's the key: if properly seated the torque converter and flex plate *will not* touch when the engine and trans are mated together. there will be a slight gap between the flex plate and torque converter. installing the flex plate bolts will then actually draw those two together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well...I finally got the transmission in...I needed to change the front diff as the axle connection was different...when started it has a ticking noise in park...when driven it slips and the ticking dissapears...thoughts???

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how did you end up with a trans that required different axles...that doesn't even exist that i know of - all EJ18, EJ22, EJ25 front auto axles are interchangeable? not sure how the axle could be different.

 

the clicking could the front diff - did you literally swap the entire front diff? did you set the backlash on it properly? if not that probably needs to be done.

 

too late now but rather than swap front diffs it would have been easier to:

swap axles instead

or

swap the stubby shafts - they simply pull out of the trans, you can pull one out, pop one in.

or

run it RWD by leaving the axles out and cutting power to the Duty C solenoid, locking up the rear transfer clutches. :lol::lol::lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hmmm....didn't realize the stub axles pulled out....curses...thanks for that...I'll havta get at it next week...thanks again...;))

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

does it sounds like the clicking could be from the front diff?

you're a beast for swapping the front diff!

 

was the axle just a different spline count? what trans could it possibly be from - maybe the clicking is because it's a toyota transmission!?

 

auto stub axles pull right out in 2 seconds, only retained by a circlip. the manual trans are different and do not pull out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought this tranny from foreignengines.com ...these are decommisioned vehicle parts from Japan...has to be the right tranny....else the bolts/electrical wouldn't hook up...I may end up dropping it again and swapping front diffs again....but I'll pull the stub axles first...thanks for the help...I may need more..;)

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Clicking sound in park? Do you mean like a ticking noise that is audible while the engine is running? How loud? Does the noise happen only in PARK, or will it do it in other gears with your foot on the brake as well? Does it change at all in relation to the engine RPMs while in PARK?

 

And you say that the transmission is slipping??

 

Hopefully it's not the case, but I had symptoms like those with the junkyard transmission that some guys and I put in my Forester last month. It drove great for about 36 miles....then started making loud ticking noises from the front diff area at low RPMs (in PARK, stopped at a light, low speeds, etc) that would fade as the car got up to speed (sometimes not). I checked for loose or missing torque converter bolts, but all were there and tight. The next day, the transmission started to slip...and that began to slip a LOT. When we pulled the transmission back out and tore it down, I found out that the torque converter shaft (the larger, hollow shaft around the longer, narrower one) had broken where it goes into the front pump. It was a jagged break, and the fit of the jagged edge (like a coupling) allowed the broken halves of the shaft to keep turning together. The car drove for almost 90 miles like that before I pulled the transmission back out and realized what was going on! How did it happen? Probably because of what grossgary warned about above. We had a hard time seating the torque converter--much harder than it should have been. The tranny's donor car had been in a front end collision, and all we could figure was that the impact must have damaged something to do with the front pump or torque converter shaft. The torque converter probably wasn't seated as well as we thought it was.

 

Again, hopefully that's not the case with yours. Check your shifter cable to be sure that it's installed correctly and is correctly adjusted. I've seen similar, though non-severe, symptoms like yours out of older Chevy transmissions when the shifter cables were slightly out of adjustment. It could be something that simple...but you're going to need to troubleshoot and try to pinpoint the source of that sound.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you can try to adjust the backlash before pulling it all back apart. Gloyale is fairly knowledgeable about that i believe and has posted some threads about it.

 

you dial in the front axle seal retainers to adjust backlash so it doesn't require much work. you would just pull the axles off the trans (easy - just remove the top strut mount bolts, loosen the lower and that'll be enough to pull the axle right off the trans). then you remove the one hold down bolt and turn that large retaining ring to adjust backlash.

 

i'm not sure if you can "guess" or adjust that way rather than actually measuring it, but maybe. you're supposed to attach a dial gauge through the front diff drain hole to measure it. a turn or so of the rings on one side or the other or both should get it where it needs to be.

 

i've seen comments about it before but can't recall specifics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well I have the trans almost ready to drop...how do I pop the stub axles out....tried with a pry bar gently with the axles installed...but figgered I'd ask here before imposing my will on them...advice greatly appreciated...;))

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

front diff switched back and tranny ready to go back in....stub axles just pop out/in....thanks for the help....if my back would take a break I'd have it in by now....oh well...it'll get done when it gets done....again...thanks for the help...;)))

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well....got the tranny in and it appears to run ok...I get an AT/temp light 16 times....connected my innova 3100 and get PO122 TPS circuit low input...and P1700 TPS circuit malfunction....question...first place to look...wiring or sensor???

 

 

mojo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also check the pins in the connectors. I had the same thing happen to me, and it turned out to be a pin that had been pushed out of the connector when I connected the two corresponding sides together. In my case, I separated the connectors, popped the pin back in place, and then reconnected the connectors again while watching to see if that pin popped out again. In my case, it stayed put the second time around. I can't recall what color the wire was.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×