1-3-2-4 Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) my other stuff came in today... hmm is it just me or the intake gaskets larger in opening size then the ej22? I have 2 questions about the slave cylinder what end sticks into the boot part and for the clutch fork for the ball pivot what grease should I use? One site I saw had some kind of red looking stuff but I don't think they ever posted the name of it. must be the blunt end of it Edited August 10, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Question im at the dealer now the oring for the back of the pump the part number is 806919050 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 (edited) I guess I got everything.. starting off the week with two days of rain.. but who cares if you get wet.. Uploaded with ImageShack.us new T-stat Almost $5 Edited August 14, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 I thought it was a good time to use Amazon 1 month prime trial.. next day for the clutch kit for $3.99 can't beat that with a stick! I just hope my card wont get hacked like it did last time :-/ For people that did this before did you label or take a lot of pictures or do both? It's going to be messy for 2 days then I have a break in the weather... I hope to do some time lapse stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Starting the project now.. one question do I really need to drop the header? I ask because the bolts to the first cat are solid.. I'd have to cut them off.. Having said that I got to the motor mount bolts with no problem.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Yes, you have to unbolt the header from the heads. No you don't have to drop the header completely. Just let it hang, it will be supported just fine with the mount that comes down from the transmission. If that mount is missing/broken off, use a cloths hanger or something to keep the exhaust system up. When pulling an engine, I've never done more than just unbolt it from the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Ok thanks super happy the rain stopped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 (edited) I'm doing the drivers side bolt for the tranny.. but unless I'm in the wrong spot I just see the nut and not the bolt & nut which the bolt would be above the nut? Unless Subaru changed something which I don't think they did.. but the whole underside of the car is covered in oil/tranny oil and whatever the hell was leaking from the motor. Edited August 15, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 That appears to be the bottom driver's side nut. That one is a pain to access... I'm not completely sure what you're asking, maybe I'm reading wrong. But you're looking for a bolt head somewhere? The bottom two are studs that thread into the engine bell housing and go all the way through the transmission bell housing with a nut on the back side. There's no bolt so to speak because it just threads into the block. They're about 6" long studs. Sometimes the nut sticks and threads the stud out of the block. Don't worry if that happens. Pull the engine and deal with it when the engine is out of the way I just put a vicegrip on the middle of the stud and get the nut off. No big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 maybe the impreza model has that bolt and I don't? Here is what im talking about Where it says lower trans bolt you see it has two in that area I don't I just have the bolt and speaking of that someone was smart to put never seize on it but the passenger side bolt is missing/ http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 maybe the impreza model has that bolt and I don't? Here is what im talking about Where it says lower trans bolt you see it has two in that area I don't I just have the bolt and speaking of that someone was smart to put never seize on it but the passenger side bolt is missing/ http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html I see nowhere it states the year of that car, but it has a phase2 engine. Meaning it's 99+ In 99 they added extra trans/engine mounting bolts. IIRC yours is a 97, so it just has the two bottom studs and the two bolts at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 I see nowhere it states the year of that car, but it has a phase2 engine. Meaning it's 99+In 99 they added extra trans/engine mounting bolts. IIRC yours is a 97, so it just has the two bottom studs and the two bolts at the top. hmm learn something new each day.. ok back to wrenching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 how many bolts should I be looking for on the bellhousing? so far I just see the two lowers and the starter area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 how many bolts should I be looking for on the bellhousing? so far I just see the two lowers and the starter area. The bottom starter bolt is a stud into the transmission bell housing. Has nothing to do with bolting to the engine. The top starter bolt goes through engine and transmission, there's one on the other side. And the two bottom studs. Take off the pitch stopper, and that should be it. There are two steel pins that align the engine and transmission. And they get wicked stuck. Jam screwdrivers, prybars, etc, etc into the crack to get the engine loose. It can take some beating sometimes. Just work at it, it'll go eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 wow thanks out of all of them I missed the bracket for the main harness.. as soon as I took it out the motor split lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 engine out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 engine out Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 I hate to stop since tomorrow is a storm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 craap I had to stop tonight because I did not know what size hex those screws are for the steel rear separator plate. I got as far as cutting open the sealant and seen that none of my allen wrenches fit. Now as far as that EGR line to the head I got the lower one out by using channel locks since my 17mm flare wrench was just rounding the nut.. I haven't done the top one yet.. I've been using liquid wrench which is meh.. my kroil wont get here until it's too late but at least I got two large cans. I have a lot of pictures to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Ok picture time! worked out great but the bolt was like finger tight really very little effort. Why so much grease?? I was told a new clutch was installed.. I've only put like 6k on the car since I got it. I can't tell if the rear seal is leaking a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 clutch disc seems to be made by ap never heard of them before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 leave the rear seal alone! it doesnt look bad and you run the risk of making things way worse by messing with it. you definitely need to do that seperator plate tho (which i saw in your pile of parts pic :cool: ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 I'm stuck because I can't figure out what size I need to screw the screws in for the rear plate.. I wonder if I can use a torx on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 T25 was a good fit cover on now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Yours has Torx bits for the rear plate? I've only seen them with #3 Philips screw heads (On 3 different motors) The problem with attemping to replace the rear main is, pressing the new one in square, a little bit off and it will leak (Probably worse then before) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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