Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Sign in to follow this  
roadsubiedog

Clutch Pedal Sticking To Floor. Clutch Re. 45 K Ago

Recommended Posts

yesterday pedal stuck to floor. I played with it and then it would work about 5- 6 times and then stick again. when engine off the pedal works normally . it goes into gears smoothly both on and off.

 

only indication of problrm was a week ago when it started chattering a little on take off.

 

the cltch was replaced 45k miles ago when i did the head gaskets.

 

what do you think the problem is? the haynes manual suggests about a dozen problems but i was wondering if anyone here can give me a more likely problem.

 

i also seen on the repair manual section that a USMB posted a procedure that you can access the clutch and parts without removing the tranny. would that possibly apply in this case?

 

thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed. Your slave cylinder needs to be replaced. It is not included in a standard clutch replacement job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going through almost the same thing. I don't know what year yours is...but here is a TSB I found while looking into my issue.

 

 

Clutch cylinder

 

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

 

NUMBER: 03-52-03R

DATE: 07/15/03

 

APPLICABILITY:

1995-2002MY Legacy;

1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and

1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.

All models have Manual Transmission.

 

SUBJECT:

Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised)

 

INTRODUCTION

 

In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal

not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal

feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the

following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect

certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system

under certain weather conditions.

 

PROCEDURE

 

To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that

match your vehicle using the following procedure:

 

For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches

 

1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold.

 

2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this

procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the

clutch pipe and bracket.

 

3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new

parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N

114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be

replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening

torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.

lbs.

 

4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission.

 

5) Add brake fluid.

 

6) Bleed the air from the system.

 

7) Install the intake chamber.

 

8) Check the following items:

 

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid

leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

 

B) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

 

 

 

For Turbo models

 

1) Remove the intercooler.

 

2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the

clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be

removed.

 

3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in

the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the

connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones

when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37

+/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs.

 

4) Add brake fluid.

 

5) Bleed the air from the system.

 

6) Install the intercooler.

 

7) Check the following items:

 

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid

leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

 

 

 

B) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

 

This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the hose has a pin hole in it. and no fluid in the master res. i had to take the hose and the metal line to the master off bc the 10mm fitting on the inside is frozen solid.

 

i tried almost everything including heat.

 

if i get it apart i might just replace the hose and go from there.

 

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

went to pick npull and of course they didn'thave any 99's or subies with 2.5 motors.

 

but i took the front brake line off a 94 mazda, only an inch longer than my clutch hose.

 

worked great . not bad for 4 dollars and change and sweat and a bruised knuckle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×