Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

just picked up a 1998 Legacy Outback

 

AWD 5 Speed Wagon

 

Many new parts including headgaskets.

 

wanted $1,400 down to $800 and i got him down to $600

he agreed to the $600 after he found a van he wanted for $500

 

so here are some pictures:

GEDC0098.jpg

GEDC0099.jpg

GEDC0101.jpg

GEDC0097.jpg

 

Only thing thats suppose to be wrong with it the timing is incorrect, he said the guy who did it didnt even line up the marks.

 

if im lucky all i have to do is do the timing. if no bent valves ect...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it runs, then the timing can't be that far off. Looks like it needs a rear light lens, and a front fog light. Must have been parked by ear. Hear a noise, then time to stop. Good find for $600.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it does not run,

 

i have taken it apart and the timing is way off. had to turn the crank quarter of a turn and the right side pulleys were off about half

 

i now have the timing correct, at least i hope so.

 

yes it needs right rear taillight and needs both Fog Lights also power window switch for driver's door.

 

 

i have only 3 months to get it ready for winter. as this is my winter beater. :banana:

for $600 i knew i couldn't lose. ;)

 

Parts he said are new and i have confirmed

Water Pump

Timing Belt

Timing Tensioner

all 4 Rotors

all 8 brake Pads

Edited by SubaruJawn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
update video

 

 

Watched your video........glad to see you got the timing correct, and now the motor runs. You are on the way to putting this car back on the road. Way to go.

 

There is a thread somewhere describing how to replace broken driving lights with low beam sealed beam round head lights that cars used back in the 60's. Size wise the sealed beams are a perfect replacement size. Cost is cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

really all i have to do is get plates and ad it on insurance.

the inspection runs out 2/12 so i'm pretty much good all winter.

 

i need money to finish it and get new plates. I'm in no hurry to get it on the road.

 

as for the fog lights i might replace them with oem. i really don't need them though. i will however replace the right rear taillight.

 

I'll be going over the car today to find as many problems as i can.

 

EDIT:

 

Broken that needs fixed

 

Fog Lights aka Bling Lights

Head Light Clarity

Tires

Power Windows Switch (driver's)

Temp Sensor

Right Rear Taillight

Check Engine Light

Exhaust Leak

Alarm System (no remote, had to disable)

Battery

Cup Holder

Air Conditioning

 

Top Priority Repairs:

Tires

Temp Sensor

Rear Taillight

Exhaust Leak

Edited by SubaruJawn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks great... you lucky bastard :D

 

My approach to cars is to assume them as a gamble... On most of the purchases I have made in the last 10 years I have done a good deal because something simple was broken on the car... Large discounts because of a non-working power window (pinched wire), or a dirt-cheap Saturn with a bad clutch (that ended up being an incorrectly purged hydraulic clutch... about $6 in repairs).

 

Alas... my bet on an OBW wasn't that successful. I may end up with a very nice car for a price somewhat below to similar cars around here (3~4K for a late '90s/early '00s soobie), but the bliss is fading :( Oh well...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It looks great... you lucky bastard :D

 

My approach to cars is to assume them as a gamble... On most of the purchases I have made in the last 10 years I have done a good deal because something simple was broken on the car... Large discounts because of a non-working power window (pinched wire), or a dirt-cheap Saturn with a bad clutch (that ended up being an incorrectly purged hydraulic clutch... about $6 in repairs).

 

Alas... my bet on an OBW wasn't that successful. I may end up with a very nice car for a price somewhat below to similar cars around here (3~4K for a late '90s/early '00s soobie), but the bliss is fading :( Oh well...

 

 

 

I own both a 98 and 99 OB wagons, and do most of the maintenance work needed on both of them, so I know exactly what your car is. Maybe my repair experience can help you.

 

A/C.........if leaking 134a refrigerant, replace the O rings on both the high and low ports at the compressor. That's where the refrigerant typically leaks out. That is very ez to do. Replacement O rings available at Auto Zone and other parts stores.

 

Both my OBWs developed exhaust leaks at the resonator. It doesn't seem like coincidence that both my cars had exhaust problems at the resonator. I am thinking that is a weak spot in the exhaust system. Maybe it is where your car exhaust is leaking as well. I went to a cut/bend/weld muffler shop, where they cut out the resonator only, and replaced with a welded in length of pipe. This fixed the problem perfectly for about $50. This did not make the exhaust sound louder, which surprised me. Car sound perfectly stock.

 

I think Autozone sells replacement key fobs, prolly other parts stores do as well. So, you may be able to bring the security system and fob door lock system back to life. Somehow, they are able to match a fob code sender signal to the car security system receiver frequency. don't know the cost.

 

Other small stuff like tail light lens etc, can be bought on the cheap at a wrecking yard. You prolly already know this.

 

Prolly worthwhile to check the brake pads, and replace if necessary. Also, bleed and replace the brake fluid. I bet the brake fluid in your car is the color of iced tea. I know on my car it was.

 

Rubbing compound, or tooth paste used with a wet paper towel can help clean the oxidization off the headlight lenses for brighter light on the road.

 

I recently bought tires, and increased the tire size from OEM size 205X70X15 to 215X70X15 for very little extra money. The tires don't rub. It increases lift by nearly an inch, and ride, handling, trany gearing seems better. It also puts a little more tread on the pavement. I recommend the larger tire size.

 

Still, at $600, you got a hell of a deal. With a little bit of time, effort, and love, you should be able to turn your 98 into a nice daily driver. I don't think cost will come close to $2K investment, if you do a lot of the work yourself. Just my 2 cents worth of advise and experience. I hope it helps. Keep us posted on your work........Rooster2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i don't know about the A/C, A/C condenser looks new. i pushed the tab and it hissed ever so lightly. it may just need recharged ?

 

--

Fixed: 8-3-11

Temp

Check Engine Light

 

Test ran, burped Radiator ect... Temperature is Good doesn't overheat. real test is on the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i don't know about the A/C, A/C condenser looks new. i pushed the tab and it hissed ever so lightly. it may just need recharged ?

 

--

Fixed: 8-3-11

Temp

Check Engine Light

 

Test ran, burped Radiator ect... Temperature is Good doesn't overheat. real test is on the road.

 

Yea, you are correct about "real test is on the road." A 2.5 Gen 1 motor with bad GHs will idle all day, and not over heat. However, run it at highway speed, or drive it up hills, and it will over heat rather quickly. I will keep my fingers crossed that your HGs are good.

 

Nice job of cleaning your headlight lenses. What product did you use??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yea, you are correct about "real test is on the road." A 2.5 Gen 1 motor with bad GHs will idle all day, and not over heat. However, run it at highway speed, or drive it up hills, and it will over heat rather quickly. I will keep my fingers crossed that your HGs are good.

 

Nice job of cleaning your headlight lenses. What product did you use??

 

not true about the HG's I did a 667 mile trip on failing HG's with bubbles in the overflow tank and not once the whole trip did I overheat, and no I did not take out the thermostat.

 

What will overheat it is having the AC on because of all that extra hot air hitting the radiator will overheat it quicker then me just driving without the AC on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
not true about the HG's I did a 667 mile trip on failing HG's with bubbles in the overflow tank and not once the whole trip did I overheat, and no I did not take out the thermostat.

 

What will overheat it is having the AC on because of all that extra hot air hitting the radiator will overheat it quicker then me just driving without the AC on.

 

You are a brave man to have traveled 667 with known failing HG's...........or maybe you didn't have a choice, being 667 miles away from home, when you discovered the problem?

 

When my 2.2 blew a HG, it would over heat after about 5 minutes in simple city driving with the A/C off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You are a brave man to have traveled 667 with known failing HG's...........or maybe you didn't have a choice, being 667 miles away from home, when you discovered the problem?

 

When my 2.2 blew a HG, it would over heat after about 5 minutes in simple city driving with the A/C off.

 

oh no I knew about the problem, I knew what would trigger it After I did the first 2 hours of driving I was pretty relaxed.

 

Right now all that's happening is the cylinder is over pressuring the cooling system which causes the radiator cap to open which then blows it all into the overflow tank.

 

I'm not sure which cylinder is causing it but I will know next week.. they look like the factory gaskets if you ask me.. I'm at 226K right now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Also known as the MLS layered steel.

right, i couldn't think of the name for them.

 

i got this outback without the remote alarm and i had to disable it by the fuse. couldn't i just go to the garage and get a new remote ? or do i have to deal without the remote and alarm ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
right, i couldn't think of the name for them.

 

i got this outback without the remote alarm and i had to disable it by the fuse. couldn't i just go to the garage and get a new remote ? or do i have to deal without the remote and alarm ?

 

 

You mean you have the keyless entry with factory alarm?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
oh no I knew about the problem, I knew what would trigger it After I did the first 2 hours of driving I was pretty relaxed.

 

Right now all that's happening is the cylinder is over pressuring the cooling system which causes the radiator cap to open which then blows it all into the overflow tank.

 

I'm not sure which cylinder is causing it but I will know next week.. they look like the factory gaskets if you ask me.. I'm at 226K right now

 

For what it is worth, I read somewhere, that a blown HG is usually on the driver side of the motor. If so, I wonder why?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
For what it is worth, I read somewhere, that a blown HG is usually on the driver side of the motor. If so, I wonder why?

 

hmm interesting never heard of that before

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×