bgambino Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 replaced clutch, to bearing, pilot bearing, p plate....trying to get damn engine to slide onto the tranny shaft,,,i get to about a 1.25" space between eng housing and tranny housing...spent close to 2 hours and nothing yet.....i dont usually swear but I am going to town today!!! took engine back out...checked alignment with tool...still good this thing is KILLING me... I put a rope on the engine lift rather than a chain thinking maybe the engine would pivot easier.....i just want to scream,,haha any suggestions at all? i will be back at it at 9 AM tomorrow thanks 2003 impreza RS 2.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Make sure it's going together nice and straight. You need to get the splines to line up. Put a breaker bar on the crank so you can turn the motor over as you slide it in. That way as you're pushing you'll get it lined up. Put it in gear so the transmission doesn't spin with the motor when it's partially engaged, not letting it go farther. They can be a pain sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Maybe you need to put your floor jack under the trans and lift it up a couple of inches. the engine mounts can interfere witht the crossmember if you're trying to just push it in without the trans being elevated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Yep the trans needs to be lifted and make sure the bottom cover plate is not catching on the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 what they said, you're hanging on the crossmember. get the trans up in the air a bit and it'll slide together. when you pull it out the trans is automatically "lifted" up by default because the engine studs are holding it as you pull. not so when reinstalling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 i have a floor jack under the tranny...moving it up and down to try and get angle correct I will lock the tranny in gear I guess I should look underneath for some obstruction...i dont know what else to do its being a major beatch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 A little lube on the tranny input splines? But it's still a alignment issue. If the car is on it's wheels it raised several inches when the weight of the engine was lifted. This changed both the height and angle of the tranny. I find that usually the tranny has to look to be really high in the front to get things to line up. I assume you're NOT hanging up on the lower studs that are probably in the bottom of the engine at the bellhousing? Sometimes if the angle is bad it'll slide until it hits the threads. You could remove those studs but I like to leave them in. After all they do help with alignment but I have removed them to get the engine in when having extreme problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 the motor mount studs---no, I constantly check them for clearance While I'm here...this the the first time i have put a clutch in with a car with a hydr clutch. I just unboted the actuator (or whatever it is called). I noticed that the plunger would push forward on its own due to apparent internal pressure. Is this bad? I taped it so it stayed compressed some. I shold not have to bleed this will I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I'm usually working on 95-99s and I learned to just plan on putting a new slave on them. They usually have 120-180k and I'm doing HG's or a 2.2 swap and I swear it just gets over extended and they often failed for me in a couple hundred miles it seemed so I just started putting new ones on - and they CAN be a pain to bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 I'm usually working on 95-99s and I learned to just plan on putting a new slave on them. They usually have 120-180k and I'm doing HG's or a 2.2 swap and I swear it just gets over extended and they often failed for me in a couple hundred miles it seemed so I just started putting new ones on - and they CAN be a pain to bleed. so was it okay that i just unbolted it? and I can just bolt it back on? I would put a new one on if i were keeping it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Unlike Dave - I just keep a slave in stock for the occasional failure - but they do fail often enough after engine/clutch jobs to warrant me keeping one in stock . You should not have to bleed it if it's working now - just unbolt and lay to the side as you did. If you have compressed the slave then the pedal could go to the floor the first time or a couple times before it posistions itself correctly. If you do have to bleed it - push the pluger in and clamp it there while you are bleeding. Otherwise air bubbles will get stuck in the slave and never come out. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I just had this same problem.. what happened was my motor while the two lower pins where in the transmission the motor was a little twisted that the studs on the motor mounts prevented the engine from sitting in.. I had the same gap you did after I got that in and lowered the engine it popped right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I have run into this problem with it being the clutch disc itself. I remember a customer brought me their own parts (after thinking they could do the job themselves) and it was a NAPA clutch kit. I tired for a half day trying to get that thing in...it would go in and then just stop. What was happening was there was some sort of casting flaw and so the tranny would only slide half way onto the clutch disc and then stop. I discovered this only after I took the tranny completely out to make sure everything was in proper working order and everything would line up. I just took a small "jewelers" file and filed down the burs in the casting and did that until the clutch disc would freely slide on and off the tranny splines. Just go to show (IMO) why I never get parts from NAPA...I have always been burned by there stuff. But then again it is my own experience and this is meant to start a "whose a better parts store" war. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 problem solved now how many arm chair quarterbacks are going to say..."of course that was the problem" haha at least it's done..whew! so when i was UNbolting the engine from the tranny...I took out the 2 bolts for to starter....since the starter was oxidized, it did not just drop out of its position--was kind of welded in So I was thinking to myself...no big deal...there is nothing engaged...i'll just leave it there. Engine came right out and starter stayed where it was so....i also left it there when putting engine back in....there were no clearance issues of the motor coming out,,,so i thought nothing of leaving it in place well....5 minutes after knocking it out with my mallet...the engine was in so somehow, there was enough interference...or perhaps just a shade of wiggle room missing while it was in its slot thats it my friends thanks for your assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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