Ibreakstuff Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 They crack in the exhaust port........not just the normal between the valves crack. ALL of the ones I have seen have cracks.....had 4 heads repaired (welded) and they cracked again within 10k miles. They will run fine still.......If you keep the water level up. I just can't understand why one would want to "build up" one of these engines........you can get more power easier from an EJ and the weight diference is less than 100 lbs.........Just doesn't make sense to me. But that said.....they work showcased in this thread is amazing.....and I salute the efforts. Hrmm, I think that the exhaust port cracks would also be due to high EGT's, hot spots, and brittle castings. The first 2 we can mitigate, the last is luck of the draw. Everyone knows what an EJ can do, NA and turbo. But no one has properly built and documented ea82t yet.. Sure its still a 2 valve, 3 main motor, dead engine platform.. it will never do more than 300 hp and not for very long.. But that said it's still a beautiful design. If you don't agree, at least look at how much is in common with the new FA20/FB20/FB25. The new valvetrain has more in common with EA than EJ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 The problem with ALL ea motors is the cooling system....which cools the drivers side block first then that warm coolant has some go out the drivers head into crossover, and some over through the block passage in the top over to the other block half.......then the warm water has to go DOWN into that side.....then up into the passenger head then up and out to crossover and on to rad. So the water has to go up and down in the block.......prone to bubbles and hot spots......and to make it worse.....the Turbo is fed water from the passenger side head....the hottest water in the whole system. EJ motors.....and I believe the FA/FB motors too.....the water goes directly from the pump into parallel ports out to the bottom side of each block, though the heads and back into the top side of the blocks and out to rad..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 The problem with ALL ea motors is the cooling system....which cools the drivers side block first then that warm coolant has some go out the drivers head into crossover, and some over through the block passage in the top over to the other block half.......then the warm water has to go DOWN into that side.....then up into the passenger head then up and out to crossover and on to rad. So the water has to go up and down in the block.......prone to bubbles and hot spots......and to make it worse.....the Turbo is fed water from the passenger side head....the hottest water in the whole system. EJ motors.....and I believe the FA/FB motors too.....the water goes directly from the pump into parallel ports out to the bottom side of each block, though the heads and back into the top side of the blocks and out to rad..... I concur, some of the flow can actually bypass the lower part of both heads too (probably promotes cavitation). Shine a light in that center block port (where the short block splits) and you can follow light all the way to the crossover port.. There isn't much to direct the flow down in the heads. Do you think they restricted the upper coolant ports with the HG to aid the flow to the lower area of the heads? There is a substantial area blocked in those top ports by the HG. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 So, has anyone added in an extra cooler between the turbo and the block? To cool coolant a little further before it hits the turbo .. Having seen water flow out of the heater hose connection on the inlet manifold I thought water / coolant actually flowed from the thermostat housing to the turbo and return to the head underneath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 So, has anyone added in an extra cooler between the turbo and the block? To cool coolant a little further before it hits the turbo .. Having seen water flow out of the heater hose connection on the inlet manifold I thought water / coolant actually flowed from the thermostat housing to the turbo and return to the head underneath? Suction into the water pump is pulled from the rad. The Thermo housing is were all the various passages all "come back toghether" before going out to radiator......... But that's kinda the point I was making......the already hot water has to go down to the bottom of the pass. head (instead of up and out hte head were it wants to go)......and then out to the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Suction into the water pump is pulled from the rad. The Thermo housing is were all the various passages all "come back toghether" before going out to radiator......... But that's kinda the point I was making......the already hot water has to go down to the bottom of the pass. head (instead of up and out hte head were it wants to go)......and then out to the turbo. I've seen TD04's ran without coolant lines at all, synthetic oil mitigates the issue of oil coking. It might be feasible to isolated the turbo cooling to a small water cooler with an auxiliary water pump but you would need a gauge on it 100%. As for the deficient flow, not much we can do to change that.. I've wanted to try using evans waterless coolant. Which is zero pressure coolant that has ridiculously high boiling point. This would virtually eliminate hot spots and cavitation. But I think it would require the XT6 water pump to make up for the viscosity. Turbo timer might be the cheapest upgrade which would promote a more even cooldown. Benefiting the heads more than the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Hey guys, I regret not being on the board, sometime. I have been busy with this but it is a hobby, one of a few at least. Anyway here's a shocker for you, I'm going to use SPFI heads and intake manifold on engine # 1. But I can tell you, when I'm done with the intake it won't be a restriction. Yea right.I'm going to just post some pictures, now that I think I can. Resident Garage Wizard I plan to weld the radiator cap hole shut and this goes with the WEIAND coolant manifold I have. Ram Engines Stuff I can explain, really. I'll cut up Intake # 1 tomorrow hopefully. Intake # 2 parts are pictured. The ports can be taken out to 1 1/2"s plus. I have a 60 grit ball hone on the way and I'll use that after the grinder work. Since I'm not having any coolant in the intake I plan to use the coolant passage as part of the intake port. Need more pictures. Today. I measureed this SPFI port and I'll take it out to about 40 mm before I cut the floor out. I plan jig saw and sawzall for that. Edited December 8, 2014 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Hey guys, I regret not being on the board, sometime. I have been busy with this but it is a hobby, one of a few at least. Anyway here's a shocker for you, I'm going to use SPFI heads and intake manifold on engine # 1. But I can tell you, when I'm done with the intake it won't be a restriction. Yea right.I'm going to just post some pictures, now that I think I can. Ram Engines Stuff I can explain, really. I'll cut up Intake # 1 tomorrow hopefully. Intake # 2 parts are pictured. The ports can be taken out to 1 1/2"s plus. I have a 60 grit ball hone on the way and I'll use that after the grinder work. Since I'm not having any coolant in the intake I plan to use the coolant passage as part of the intake port. Need more pictures. Poster back asked me about the pistons. I still have the ARIAS pistons but they've been stripped of the pins and rings. Last time I checked I'd order a custom WISECO the basic dimentions of the ARIAS 1.295 compression height, giving around .040 quench with a Genuine Subaru gasket. I recycle metals. I get squat for scrap aluminum so I keep it. I'll be using two drivers side intake manifold sections. I have a few of them. The factory side of the manifold is not what to use. I'll round up a picture. Oh, I don't have to weld it together if that's what I decide to do, I recken. Edited December 8, 2014 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) That exhaust header looks massive. What diameter is that??? Why spend time cutting and die grinding the manifold and welding it back together??? I'd rather buy schedule 10 aluminum pipe. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-fittings/=uxejuv Would probably cost $100 and save a lot of time. Edited December 8, 2014 by coronan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 I need to fit and braze the oil pump pickup, lower left. Then, I cut two of these SPFI header flanges off a good pipe, The center factory pipe within a pipe, I cut into two pieces offset to the drivers side foor clearance reasons. I took those two SPFI flanges and pipe stubs and stuck them into the inner pipes. They fit snug, weld the outside good enough, mabie. Top right is a passengers side chunk of intake. That's why I'm using two drivers side sections. Intake number one I butchered real good. Sawzall and and a portible band saw. It's unusable so I'll cut the drivers side off intake three. That's my coolant manifold. Doug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 (edited) I've been working on this thing, need to take some pictures. Some parts ordered. Last two nights I''ve been piecing together a Subaru EF 12eT. VF 4 EA 82 Turbo. Anyway, I'll take some pics. Floyd Edited December 18, 2014 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 (edited) I was looking at this. I used 2" sections of exhaust fittings, that pushed the front pipe foreward and down. Oil pan is where it could Bee. The factory skid plate lowered to cover it all. I've since added the oil cooler fittings in the mix. Typical holes in up pipe Passenger side. Shows the sliced motor mount flange. Oil pan should just fall off. Shows the flange off set to the drivers side. Here you see the front up pipe in bolt on location. I couldn't bolt the front cam pulley on, so I had to cut the ear off the stock flange. It can't stay there. Edited December 19, 2014 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Subaru EA 82 Drivers Side Intake Manifold. I use those fasteners on these things, bought a bunch of them. Two vac ports plugged. Problem for me is: I don't have fasteners for the new/old intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherGL10guy Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 looking good man I cant believe what you have done! Keep up the great killer work and keep us posted! I want to see this running SOON please. with video! 300+ hp please! and get 20k miles outta her! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubaroo84 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Subscribed. I wanna see this madness when its done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nncoolg Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) any other pictures of this rail setup? me likey Edited April 24, 2015 by nncoolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 hmm, not sen these pages for a while. I am curious as the the ID of th SPFI inlet where you cut it...millimetres is an understandable measure ) canot wait for fire up of this beast ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 (edited) Just a couple pics from the garage. Nasty surface rust on the NOS door. Ugly but not as bad as it looks. Rear air shocks if I want to use them. Edited November 20, 2015 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Hey, Just some thoughts while I'm at it. All exterior light fixtures are NOS except for the drivers side taillight. I'm in for a pound there. I polished a set of stock connecting rods, removed the bushings. Installed with those EJ 20 pistons and pins, here is what I'm using for a guide. EF 12 Justy engine has .0002 to .0003 clearance between pin hole and pin. Clearance between small end of rod and pin listed at .0002 to .0008. This motor doesn't use a connecting rod small end bushing. Using that as a guide, I'm going to drill another lubrication hole in the small end of the rod. Finished with shot peen and magnaflux. I'm going to take a full .020 off the block and pistons...still have .040 quench. A full .020 off the heads. Later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Good time to update while it's on my mind. Ordered 10 each clutch clips and 10 exhaust studs, Genuine Subaru. Bought a set of Australian Headlight covers. I'm going to tint the ones I cracked with the stick on stuff, it will help hold it together where I cracked one. On the connecting rods without bushings...the pistons and piston pins I'm using had the pins fitted at the factory. They are a tight fit, especially with a forged piston, because forged expands more than stock type pistons. Here's how it works. The piston can expand and actually "lock up" in the pin bore. The pivot is the connecting rod at the pin. That's why you'll have more clearance there. That's why there are oil holes there. I think this will help some understand. One major thing to do on any engine with high output. Have the block and heads decked/surfaced, so that are square with the world. Don't do it and you've not done the best you can do and consequently odds of a headgasket failure are what they are. I've got a lot of parts I could install someday, just not today. I've got a list of things I need yet, I'll post in the parts wanted, probably next year:) Bought a set of Goodyear Gatorback timing belts to have on hand and a pilot bearing I needed. I've been wondering how good the Gates Powergrip belt kits are. Oh, I bought another set of hood pins. Locking and carbon fiber. 4 across the front. Later on Edited December 5, 2015 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Just curious as to why the rods can't be machined to accept the larger bushing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 They could be machined, not sure how much meat would be left. Might be a good route, I don't know. I hand polished the bore of the rods I have and they fit like a glove. So, there is that. I 'll be drilling 4 holes in the rods. I can say, these are pretty good stock connecting rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Just something I've been working on. Genuine Subaru idler. I bought a GoodYear kit as well to have on hand, haven't recieved that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) Sorry, pics taken on the run. Deserves an explaniation, huh? Quality fasteners and all good parts. Cylinder heads Gen 1 NOS and reman, no cracks. New stainless valves. VF 4 turbo. Times 2. I got three welders and none of them work. A good bit of welding to do. Edited March 26, 2016 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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