SoobDood05 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 My 1990 sohc loyale wagon 164k, has developed a tick in the passenger side cylinder head, it started after i went 4k without changing the oil, everyone asks me what the noise is but i cant explain it, its not a rod knock either, I've searched around quite abit and ive heard there is no adjustment you can make to quiet the ticking, because the lifters are hydraulic? do i maybe have a rocker arm thats going bad? or pushrod? i have also noticed that a small amount of oil leaks out of that cylinder head from the breather tube if that is related in any way, i also know that a failed oil pump gasket can cause ticking from air in the system, but the oil pressure seems fine, if you have any input for me, or suggestions, let me know, id just like to figure out if the noise is isnt something causing damage, or if its something i will have to just grow to deal with, TIA everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 You can fix it mechanically (maybe) by changing the oil pump seal. From personal experience, Marvel Mystery Oil helps for a short term, but my newest "snake oil" fix is Engine Restore. I haven't have any ticking since I started running engine restore, and it's burning less oil than before as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afterbang Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I haven't had a loyale for almost 7 years but I remember when mine started ticking out of nowhere, I removed the valve cover and a bolt had backed out that holds this thin metal rod that sits above the cam. I have no idea what it's called but it's clearly shown in the picture in this thread if you scroll down a bit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97700 So that bolt head that you see above the cam, that backed out enough to let that rod tap. I've always wondered what that is called but like I said, I've only had EJ engines for most of my time as Subaru owner. Maybe someone can chime in and tell me what that was after all these years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I've had many EA82 engines that responded well to some Marvel Mystery Oil. A quart in the crankcase, and drive it a little hard (rev it) and there's a good chance you'll fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 i have considered using an oil additive once my next oil change comes up, at that time im going to seafoam the engine before i change the oil, then replace a quart of oil with Rislone, or Marvel mystery oil, Engine restore etc.. im thinking of taking the valve cover off and checking to see if anything is bent or breaking is there an easy way, or any way to tell? ive never taken a look at it in there, also if bolts are backing off im sure i would be able to tell, anything i should know before i do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I would recommend rebuilding the cam towers to replace the o-ring in there if nothing else cures it. If you can do a timing belt, this is not much more work beyond that. But it is a little frustrating with the rockers falling off when you try to put it together. But it's totally worth it for severe TOD or poor oil pressure to the valve train Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobaloui Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I am having the same issue with my loyale I bought a couple weeks ago. Did you find the issue? Fix it? Just live with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I am having the same issue with my loyale I bought a couple weeks ago. Did you find the issue? Fix it? Just live with it?there are multiple causes, so one person's experience isn't all that accurate of a diagnosis for your vehicle. due to the nature of the HLA's, frequent oil changes are very helpful. have you changed the oil since you got it? is your ticking from one cylinder/side of the engine or is it from all over the engine? so far I have a 100% success rate (except for one that doesn't count) fixing ticking old gen subaru's by: 1. resealing the oil pump 2. replacing the oil pump if you have time and can do it yourself, try step one first. or skip step one and go straight to step 2. sometimes on unknown cars, buying used cars that maybe the owner knew they were going to sell so they didn't change the oil in forever (if it looks nasty) - i've run a quart or two of ATF in with the engine oil to help clean things out. drive a few miles like that and then change the oil. can't say i recommend that, but i've done it before and know others have as well. sea foam or MMO (marvel mystery oil) are other alternatives to help fight the dirty oil nastiness. clean oil will do a lot to keep the HLA's quiet over the long term, change that oil. there are more possible causes that are more ominous to address. the only one that an oil pump would not have fixed was an engine that was driven thousands of miles with a blown headgasket and two of the HLA's on the passengers side were seized solid - they wouldn't even compress in a vice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 There was one i worked on that ticked after dong all the seals. I replaced the hla's with ones form another motor, but i did the cam tower o-rings at the same time. It does not hurt to ask what fixed what, when someone updates their fixes, we have more documentation of different examples of what actually works and what doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 my 88 xt gl has the tick because of an inake gasket leak. coolant in the oil will cause lifters to not pump up. just a thought. (it's a small leak too barely loses collant and only smokes/steams a tiny bit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 coolant in the oil will eat the bearings. an intake gasket leak would only allow coolant in the cylinder, not the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 My daughter has a 93 Loyale that we tried the oil & additive tricks with. Got quiet for a week or so. Then we replaced the seals on the oil pump, made no lasting differance. Finaly pulled the HLA'S and sent them to Mizpah to be rebuilt, resealed the whole motor, including the oil pump and cam carrier o-rings. 2 months now and all quiet knock on wood and crossing my fingers. Not sure what the answer was but that combo sure worked. Still has the origional 146,000 mile oil pump in it. The cam carrier o-ring were like rock and misshaped so I think they played into the problem a great bit. The engine work was actualy pretty easy but then we had it out to change trannys. I screwed up by not doing things I should have before tearing it down but thanks to some great help from folks here we got it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 My oil pressure never goes far above 45 and at idle wich is 850rpm it sits a bit above zero, so maybe the gasket went bad on the oil pump, i plan to fix that in the near future, Is rebuilding the cam towers hard to do? i have a garage to do it in, and tools, is there a write up or is it fairly simple? and once my next oil change comes up, i will be seafoaming the crankcase then using some additive to attemp to quiet the ticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 coolant in the oil will eat the bearings. an intake gasket leak would only allow coolant in the cylinder, not the oil. yes and now that I read it back I see that. thanks. I have a mechanic friend to beat for steering me wrong on that old chevy 3.1 too. it would have to get past the rings to do that... so I have a separate tick and leaky gasket. sorry for the stupid mis-informative post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 My oil pressure never goes far above 45 and at idle wich is 850rpm it sits a bit above zero, so maybe the gasket went bad on the oil pump, i plan to fix that in the near future, Is rebuilding the cam towers hard to do?the gauges aren't very accurate or meaningful - the original Subaru owners manuals even mention the gauge reading low - often they have plenty of volume regardless of what that gauge says. resealing or replacing the oil pump is still a good idea. cam towers are relatively difficult. i mean, they aren't and they are. for a first timer, if you're asking this question, it is a rather involved job. don't really need much info - once the timing belt is off just unbolt the valve covers and remove all the bolts holding the cam tower to the head and it comes off. the only trick is trying to retain each rocker arm to its original location. as you loosen the cam tower bolts, allow the tower to push out some until theres enough room to pull the rocker arms out by hand and mark their location so you can reinstall them on the same HLA. but really this is way ahead of yourself - reseal or preferrably replace the oil pump first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 the gauges aren't very accurate or meaningful - the original Subaru owners manuals even mention the gauge reading low - often they have plenty of volume regardless of what that gauge says. resealing or replacing the oil pump is still a good idea. cam towers are relatively difficult. i mean, they aren't and they are. for a first timer, if you're asking this question, it is a rather involved job. don't really need much info - once the timing belt is off just unbolt the valve covers and remove all the bolts holding the cam tower to the head and it comes off. the only trick is trying to retain each rocker arm to its original location. as you loosen the cam tower bolts, allow the tower to push out some until theres enough room to pull the rocker arms out by hand and mark their location so you can reinstall them on the same HLA. but really this is way ahead of yourself - reseal or preferrably replace the oil pump first. Okay thankyou! i think i can hold off the Cam towers for now, But i am also unfamiliar with doing the oil pump, i have searched for a write up for that but i was nonsuccessive, It looks like the timing belts have to come off? and i heard you have to jack up the engine or tranny to get the oil pan off, but im not 100% sure, if someone could help me out id appreciate it so i could prepare for the job, also, is an OEM Oil pump required? i am already sure i will get all the gaskets at the dealership, as well as do the oil pan with rtv, And thankyou all for the input;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Teh oil pump is fairly easy once you have the timing belt off. Chances are, all you need is the seals. The pumps rarely fail, unless they have been run out of oil. the oil pan can come off without undoing the motor mounts. all the 10mm bolts have a phillips head in them. there are holes in the rear of the subframe to allow a long screwdriver in there to get at the bolts. What i do is put a 1/4 extension through the hole, and then the socket. you will have to maneuver the pan around the pickup to get it out. It will be a little tight between the motor mounts, but it will pop through. here is an article for the oil pump http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm here is a video for the oil pan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobDood05 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Thanks for the write up! this will help me get the job done, ive only done the water pump so this should be a challenge, i will have help though, once i can get the parts and tools etc.. together i will see what i can do, im looking forward to getting rid of the ticking.. or atleast try, but now i have a chance to get the oil pan gasket done and clean it up a bit down there, Thanks for all of your input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPain Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I had one that did the same thing. The oil lifters make the noise and it's a classic Subaru related sound. There was nothing I could do about it and I wasn't going to spend a bunch of money on new lifters, heads, ect. I just lived with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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