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Originally posted by Supaglu

Under the steering column find the wiring harness that goes to the igntion lock, it may have 4 or 6 wires. Trace the "starter" wire (black & white I think) cut this and take both ends to a new 4 pin relay - pins 30 and 87 (the end that comes from the switch put to pin 30)

 

Loop a connection from pin 30 onto pin 86. Take the connection from pin 85 to your choice of switch and the other connection of the switch to a good earth point. When the switch is "on" then your ignition key will work as normal, when off the key will be dead.

 

Another way I have done it is not to use a switch but use the wiring on the back of for example your rear heated window switch, find a wire on the rear of the hrw that is earthed when pushed in and off when released - hence when you leave your car unattended if you leave the hrw switch pushed in then your starter cannot be turned from the igniton switch.

 

DaveH

 

so could i also wire my fuel pump switch like that also, but instead of the ignition wire its the wire to the fuel pump??

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No - there isn't a wire from the ignition switch that feeds the fuel pump, not directly anyway. You could rewire the earth feed for the fuel pump relay. Find this wire and cut it - feed both ends directly to a hidden on/off flick switch.

 

I believe the relay is under the dash/drivers side, if you are looking at a wiring diagram it may be referred to as an engine relay.

 

DaveH

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no what i ment is run it with the relay and the switch, not wire it into teh same switch as the ignition.

 

make two completely different systems. i was just wondering if i would wire the relay and switch the same as the ignition one for the other one for the fuel pump.

 

that make it more clear??

 

Shean

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Shean,

What I described for the fuel pump wiring is seperate from the other post regarding the starter motor, you dont need another relay just interrupt the earth feed to the f/p relay via a flick switch.

This would obviously have to be left on when using the car but the starter switch could be turned off once started.

 

If you fit a kill switch interrupting power to the coil then all that will happen is they will flatten your battery trying to steal it.

 

I know that it is easy enough to by-pass a starter kill switch by jumping a wire to the starter under the bonnet - but nearly all "immobilisers" can be by-passed if the thief is persistent enough and really all you want to do is make it as awkward as possible.

 

In the UK you can purchase relatively cheap immobiliser kits that will give you instructions - are they not available where you are ?

 

DaveH

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:wave: Yes kill switches can be defeated. many years ago i saw in Hot Rod a simple but clever design. they put a fuse in the negitive wire from the coil and an extra wire to a switch and then to earth. with the switch on it grounded the coil so no start, but also blew the fuse. so even if they found the switch after the failed atempt it still would not start. One of my high school teachers put a magnetic switch in the dash of a freinds car it was hook to the starter selinoid, the friend had a jewler make a ring with a magnet in it . So to start the car he put his hand on the dash and rub over the hidden magnetic switch and start the car with words of encouragment.:burnout:

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thats a good idea, but i think when and if it does happen they will saw screw it.

 

i went and also picked up another universale ignition switch that takes a key, so now it take the flip of 2 switched, igniotn power and fuel pump power, then this key, and then the on on the steering collum to start the car. so if they do try to just pop the collum they are gonna have a hell of a time. :headbang:

 

but im not sure if im gonna use the second keyed one, maybe use that one as a coil killer.

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