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davebugs

COMPLETE engine dis-assembly

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It's cleanup time.

 

Locally they ar epaying .60 for clean ALuminum. Most are paying .10 for dirty (stupid when cars are paying .125).

 

I have literally buckets of Suabru Water pumps and may also scrap AC Compressors.

 

But the engines - are they worth total disassembly? WHat they weigh 250-300 lbs minus accessories?

 

I'm probably gonna have 8 Subaru's to do. Just trying to figure out how effective of a use of my time it is. And is any special tools are needed. I see threads from time to time about a tool to oull wrist pins on atleast one rod.

 

Or should I jsu tpull intake and heads and break them down. I just did take in a 92 clean intake - was a whole 9 pounds. If you're wondering the AC bracket was 3 pounts and the AC all aluminum piece infront of the radiator are over 5 lbs each. I went ot a different place then normal with a small load to check their scales. I've learned when hauling cars in they can be off by several hundred pounds so that influences where I go.

 

So any thoughts on breaking these 2.5's(mostly) and 2.2's down far enough to get clean aluminum to make it worth the time and effort?

 

It's also quicker when you literally don't care about the parts.

 

It there a good procedure for total teardown?

 

Thanks.

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If you split the block you can just yank the halves apart and let the pistons w/ rods and all flop out on the bench. Getting the straight pins out of the block is probably gonna be the hardest part.

 

Pistons are aluminum too. You can hammer the wrist pins out once they're out of the block.

Then toss the crank and rods into the crate with the other steel parts. You'll get more for straight steel than for plain scrap.

Edited by Fairtax4me

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You mean like those small metal tube sections as part of the coolant system and such? That are really short metal tubing inserts? Or something else?

 

I have a place that'll let them slide. I used to do a lot of Saturn engines.

 

How long for a tear down? Only takes a few minutes for heads, idlers, intake.

 

Go better on and engine stand or on a bench/floor?

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why are you scrapping all these ej blocks? can they be used at all?

 

That was my first thought too. It would be a shame to tear apart and scrap so many engines and accessories if there are any usable parts on them... :-\

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why are you scrapping all these ej blocks? can they be used at all?

 

Could be.

 

Most had HG issues, some rod knock. So I did 2.2 swaps.

 

I've got a pile of parts - starters, alternators, coil packs, cam sensors, throttle bodies, some grille's even some doors, fenders, Outback entire front bumper assy's, air boxes and MAF's, cargo covers, etc.

 

So these running engines are just parts to me. When I'd "redo" Subaru's I did a nice complete job and got a nice buck out of them. Had mostly repeat customers or friends of customers. These engines were out of cars that I didn't know about. I wasn't about to just do HG's then have the rod bearings fail on these innocent folks on a few months.

 

So It's time to make some room in the garage and I'm still recovering from an accident. So I'm starting to play with parting these.

 

Stuff to members and Ebay, other stuff I'm just hanging on to for now for kicks.

 

Prefer to sell at a reasonable price but not afraid to scrap stuff. I have no need myself for any of the parts.

 

I had answered some adds for folks looking for 2.5 DOHC's and offered to sell them one for 700 they could hear run. They were too cheap. I told them if it's all about price they could choose from 6 that ran for 300 each that needed HG's or rod bearings. Some folks just don't realize when you're trying to help them or smarten them up.

 

So I'm selling parts. And still curious about just how long it takes to break one down after the heads and intake are off. Gotta figure out what makes sense.

 

A while ago I contacted Delta Cams since I have several sets. Long story short it's simpliest to scrap them.

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And these engines have always been stored inside. And weren't abused when removed. No wireing cut or other similar shortcuts. So no weird rust or corrosion, water in the internals, etc.

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picture.php?albumid=126&pictureid=1023

the one on the right is the 96 Impreza I'm parting. Now heads and intake, etc are off too.

 

Here are some of the other engines. This pic is old Gary Gross did get the only 2.5 SOHC I had for parts. This industrial shelving unit has 7 or 8 I believe all 2.5 DOHC's on it or under it. Including a good 99 DOHC I'm not gonna part.

 

A few other running 2.2's floating around (97 and 95) and some other stray 2.5's. A few too bad to consider usable due to rod bearings or I've sold a lot of parts off.

picture.php?albumid=126&pictureid=1025

 

an old odds n ends shelving unit of Subaru and VW stuff.

picture.php?albumid=126&pictureid=1028

 

The entire Blue industrial shelving unit is now full of parts and engines. And parts are stuffed other places too.

picture.php?albumid=126&pictureid=1024

The Silver Legacy hood is long gone. But I do have a Legacy and Impreza plain red hood both off 95's.

 

Doors are inside (as well as mirrors, etc.) fenders, bumper covers, radiators are outside.

 

These pics are from my album here and are several years old. I actually have a lot more stuff, and thus stuff to get rid of.

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I bought some parts from a guy out here who was parting out an Outback... The engine had blown a head gasket, and had already been sold. I asked him how much he sold it for, and he said $400! I was pretty surprised. They must not be in as high of demand in your area though...

 

 

What kind of VW parts do you have? :brow:

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I'm parting a 73 Beetle right now. Minor accident damage on R side. I bought it that way 15 years ago. Tires of it taking up space. Planning on keeping title, pan, engine and transaxle. Engine and trx likely to go in my street legal buggy that's blowing oil. Pan and matching title will be put aside incase I ever do get through all my antique VW's and want to do a kit car or another buggy.

 

I have some MKIII and MKIV parts and will have more MKIV parts from the GTI I was driving when I got hit. Entire front clip is good including the VR6 and 5 speed tranny (I also have an auto trans from the wrecked 99.5 Jetta I bought to get the VR6).

 

I currently own 10 VW's. & air cooled's, 2 TDI's and the wrecked GTI (it WAS a beautiful car). All the antiques are in the pole building. This 73 Beetle has been outside covered for the last 2 years though. Not it's on the lift.

 

 

What years VW's do you play with? I largely skipped from air cooled to an 81 diesel pickup then on to MKIV stuff other than cars I bought to part.

 

I even invented a MKIV rear axle beam bushing installation tool that kicks a$$. Infact I started a thread here about how to handle new tools and what experiences folks may have had. I rent one that's actually on it's way back from texas right now.

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I am in need of 1 good usable connecting rod from an EJ251/253, If you have one and are willing to ship it I will buy it....

 

Spencer

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What years VW's do you play with? I largely skipped from air cooled to an 81 diesel pickup then on to MKIV stuff other than cars I bought to part.

 

Mostly air-cooled... several garages worth and counting. ;) Beetles, a dune buggy, a kit car, etc. Oldest is a '65, newest is a '74 Super that has been a project for years now. I'm not sure I need any parts for 'em right now... unless you sell time. :D

 

Have any New Beetle parts by chance though?

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No new beetle parts - almost bought one monday but it was a kids car. 98 and 46k and beat to death.

 

Big garages or little garages full?

 

WHich kit car?

 

At one time I tried to buy the Porsche Laser 917 molds to make them.

 

Came closest to buying a stearling.

 

Was more inclined to make another buggy but now after the accident back is a bit stiff (for getting in and out), neck and back crack a lot, so I'm thinking the buggy will hurt. I never even dug out the one I already have this summer.

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We have two stalls at the house, a 2 1/2 stall storage garage, and another single storage garage at the moment. Pretty much all packed full. :D

 

The kit car is an A-model 917, believe it or not. :cool: I haven't touched it in about 10 years though. :-\ Which molds were you going to buy?

 

46k is extremely low mileage for a '98 NB! In what ways was it beat? They all have their characteristic problems, but our '98 has done very well in terms of maintenance/reliability, at almost triple the mileage of that one. icon14.gif

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The molds at the time wer ein Canada bought out of Bankrupcy out Michigan way.

 

Weird deal. They weren't using them, and didn't plan to, but when it got time to discuss buying them they didn't wanna part with them.

 

I had a manufacturer lined up for the Fiberglass work that had been making heavy truck body parts for years so they were firmiliar with Fiberglass stuff for the road.

 

The dumb thing they did (but didn't have a way around) was cut out and lower the floor pans under the seats.

 

The NB was beat. 2.0 with bad top engine noise nd a new oil pan - I think they go together.. Good news was an excellent job of a sunroof/headliner/etc. Linkage or trany suspect. ONly real good hting was the seats. Curb rash on wheels.

 

Kid paid 500.00 to have a "chip replaced" after last wreck "because you need one when a VW/Audi has been wrecked". Airbags did not go off.

 

19yo clueless kid says he's put 4k into thte car in last 6 months. Hood, wing, fuel door all lreplaced and painted poorly. Current major scrape R door into R qtr. Aftermarket radio somewhat in the hole in dash from teh factory radio. Dash vent sbroke. Generally kid beat. SO while noone has actually taken care of it he was proug of the Neuspeed intake and exhaust and aftermarket radio! Getting the picture!

 

Gotta run.

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Yeah, I actually cut the pans out of mine in preparation for dropping them. At 6' tall, I had to recline the seat to a pretty extreme angle to be able to close the door, otherwise my head would hold it open. :D

 

 

On the NB, that actually all sounds pretty normal. :) The lifter tick on the 2.0's is very common (ours has had it intermittently for what, 60k miles?)... they're picky about their oil, so if it is low at all they will tick, and they will tick more if the oil is too thick (when cold or the wrong type) or when they need an oil change. :D

 

I can understand the oil pan too... these are pretty low in the front, and the "skidplate" is just a piece of plastic that generally doesn't last too long. We've bottomed ours out a few times on bad roads, diagonal speedbumps, road debris, etc. Never destroyed an oil pan, but I could understand it if they did. But yes, if the top end noise is worse than a lifter tick, then they very well could be related...

 

Curb rash, radio, etc, are all fixable. If you look around on the early NB's, about half of them you see on the road have the broken latch on the gas filler door. ;) The latch breaks, people get desperate and pry them open, and then have to pay $$$ to get the latch replaced, or more if they happened to break the door prying it open. Most people (us included), elected to not fix it. It's a very common problem, and unless you really need to protect your filler from thieves/vandals, it's only cosmetic.

 

 

I have no idea what he means by the accident chip though. :confused:

 

Just curious, how much were they asking for it?

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19yo clueless kid says he's put 4k into thte car in last 6 months. Hood, wing, fuel door all lreplaced and painted poorly. Current major scrape R door into R qtr. Aftermarket radio somewhat in the hole in dash from teh factory radio. Dash vent sbroke. Generally kid beat. SO while noone has actually taken care of it he was proug of the Neuspeed intake and exhaust and aftermarket radio! Getting the picture!

 

Sounds ready for the scrap heap. Amazing how much money people will waste on crap. Then they somehow think it makes the car worth that much more? :-p

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Oh yeah, and the dash vents weren't a very good design. I've fixed one of ours, and will need to fix another shortly. The linkage behind them likes to pop off, so all you have to do is get a hook around it and pull it back forward to make it click into place on the slats.

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