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Loyale93v

Front Axle/Cv-Joint advice...please...

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Working on a 1993 Sub Loyale EA82, Auto-Trans. FWD-

 

Need to remove & replace Right front[passenger side] CV-Joint/Axle assembly.

How tough of a job is it? I have never done a Subaru Axle before.

I was reading on the ShopKey5/Mitchell website that there is a "roll-pin" that needs to be removed. They did not offer a diagram, what are they talking about? Does any body know?

Can someone estimate on how long the job should take?

Edited by Loyale93v

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The roll pin is a pin that holds the inner axle joint onto the stub projecting from the transmission. It stops the joint from sliding off, it doesn't take any torque.

 

Search for Ed Rach's excellent write-up here, and in the USMB repair manual. With this in hand, and a few tools, it shouldn't take more than half a day or so, the first time.

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The roll pin is a pin that holds the inner axle joint onto the stub projecting from the transmission. It stops the joint from sliding off, it doesn't take any torque.

 

Search for Ed Rach's excellent write-up here, and in the USMB repair manual. With this in hand, and a few tools, it shouldn't take more than half a day or so, the first time.

 

a 1/2 day!? oh boy! :) I will look for Ed Rach's write up, where is the write up?...in the "HOW TO" section? Thank you very much

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It can be done in less than an hr. unbolt the wheel remove the 36mm axle nut remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold the hub to the rotor use a peice of wood and a hammer to tap the axle out then remove the balljoint pinch bolt spread the pinch with a flat head then pry the ball joint out of the knuckle the roll pin is easy just find a Philips screwdriver that fits hammer it out from the side without the indent then just pull the knuckle away till you have enough clearence to get the axle out you may. Need to turn the steering to the side your working on for added clearance install is opposite of removal also note the orientAtion of the indent on the doj if you put it on 180out the roll pin will only go in halfway

Edited by AKghandi

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Experts can do it in an hour. First-timers should budget a bit more time for the job. Getting a tight spindle through the bearings is a skill that takes time and many attempts to perfect. I know I haven't.

 

Also, remember it takes time to wash the grease off your hands and take the old axle back for the core charge.

 

There may be easier ways to get the hub to swing out than removing the pinchbolt etc. I prefer to remove the sway bar link and the pivot arm bolt on the crossmember. I have a suspicion that the pinchbolt etc will not come off where I have been driving my Subaru. Too much salt and water on the roads.

Edited by robm

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Experts can do it in an hour.

 

Unless I hit a snag with some rusty bolt or the lower ball joint pinch, etc - 20 minutes tops. On EA's I usually take the inner control arm bolt loose instead of the BJ - but EJ's it's usually the BJ.

 

GD

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Yea after you do 4 or 5 you start figuring ways to do it faster. I've done both my front cvs on mygl10 in 1 hr and 32mins. The first time I tried to replace on I did it the way GD described I found it to be more difficult I only did it that way because the bj pinch bolt was stripped but after I replaced the knuckle to solve the wheel bearing issue this was resolved.

 

Also I'm not knocking anyone's methods I'm just stating what I've found to be effective

 

Don't let my age fool you Ive got a lot of expirience with every type of car except Hondas which is purely preference .:Flame:Hondas

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Experts can do it in an hour. First-timers should budget a bit more time for the job. Getting a tight spindle through the bearings is a skill that takes time and many attempts

I find getting the axle back trough the spindle is best accomplished with the axle nut and 2 claw hammers or2 flat heads works good

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