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OK I have read quite a lot on this situation on quite a few forums, but here lies my problem. I have a 1996 Jap spec WRX wagon with a 4eat trans and it does not have the FWD fuse that I keep reading about, so I have no real way of determining if it is the duty C or clutches or both or something else. The only way I can get the torque bind to go away is if I remove the rear half of my driveshaft. Basically what I am wondering is if anyone on here has any experience at all with the Jap spec Subaru's or any info on where I can buy NEW clutches and a solenoid. I have a parts trans but don't really want to go that route if I don't have to. Please any info on this would be appreciated, I have to get this thing up and moving again...that another long story hahaha. lets just say parts trans is in the car and trans with problem i was trying to swap out is in the back...I bought a trans to change the one with diff problems and forgot to seat the torque converter when I swapped them out so now it doesn't move AT ALL and I think I messed it up pretty bad so going to fix the diff problem and swap them back.

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Put the clutches and duty-c from the now damaged transmission (broken oil pump if you didn't properly seat the TC) into the old one. You can order new clutches and solenoids from Subaru. Just take the old one's out to match them up, etc.

 

You can still test the duty-c - just have to apply 12v to it. Find the wire at the transmission connector and apply 12v to the solenoid. Should put it in FWD mode.

 

GD

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the FWD fuse, when in place, grounds out a pin on the TCU which switches the duty-c to be energized all the time.

 

so if you can find that pin / wire at your TCU or harness somewhere then you could created a FWD fuse holder.

 

by the way, where did you look for the FWD fuse holder?????

 

i don't know what year this pin out is for but it came from this thread on 4WD lockup switch,

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=996223#post996223

 

 

EJ_TCU_I-O_page1_v2.JPG

 

EJ_TCU_I-O_page2.jpg

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the FWD fuse, when in place, grounds out a pin on the TCU which switches the duty-c to be energized all the time.

 

so if you can find that pin / wire at your TCU or harness somewhere then you could created a FWD fuse holder.

 

by the way, where did you look for the FWD fuse holder?????

 

i don't know what year this pin out is for but it came from this thread on 4WD lockup switch,

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=996223#post996223

 

 

EJ_TCU_I-O_page1_v2.JPG

 

EJ_TCU_I-O_page2.jpg

 

Well all the write ups i saw said it was in the engine bay even found one with a picture my fuse box in the engine bay looks identical to it but does not have the spot for the FWD fuse. Also looked in the car at the fuse box under the dash, but that one is in japanese so i am not sure if it is there and if it is i have no idea which one hahaha. I appreciate it guys and i believe that is the route i am going to go as far as parts from one to the other. I was reading about the pre 97 cars flashing the power light meaning the duty c was bad today and was like hey my car does that..went out and checked didn't flash..then was like oh wait that was the other trans felt like a ********************* for a minute, but i now know the other trans has a bad duty c and the one installed is good so that is a good sign and will be what i am doing just not looking forward to pulling the trans again.

 

P.S. do yall think my torque converter is ok?? either way i have another from the trans i bought that i can put in. thanks for all the help it just started snowing today out here in the UK so i would really like to get my AWD subaru back on the road

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in the US the FWD fuse holder is located under the hood / bonnet on the passenger (right as sitting in the car) side rear near the windshield wiper motor. it is black and about the size and shape of a black ZIPPO lighter or a bit smaller.

 

your may be in a different location since you drive on the wrong side of the road. :lol: but i would look near the wiper motor since the brake master cylinder may be in the way.

 

you may be able to figure it out by looking here:

http://opposedforces.com/parts

 

at some point they moved it into the fuse box under the hood. one of the fuses closet to the strut tower and washer bottle. but it should be labled on the cover if it is .

 

do you have an owners manual?

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in the US the FWD fuse holder is located under the hood / bonnet on the passenger (right as sitting in the car) side rear near the windshield wiper motor. it is black and about the size and shape of a black ZIPPO lighter or a bit smaller.

 

your may be in a different location since you drive on the wrong side of the road. :lol: but i would look near the wiper motor since the brake master cylinder may be in the way.

 

you may be able to figure it out by looking here:

http://opposedforces.com/parts

 

at some point they moved it into the fuse box under the hood. one of the fuses closet to the strut tower and washer bottle. but it should be labled on the cover if it is .

 

do you have an owners manual?

 

Oh its still the hood I'm not British I'm American just stationed out here. I'll look around some more but the only box I found was diff lock........which might be it now that I think about it and if that's the aapdtgt didn't change anything with the torque bind I had a fuse in it at one point

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what year did the 4EAT get that steel 'sleeve' the clutches ride in, in place of aluminum? maybe after 97 or 98 or so but ????, could be you need to replace some parts with the upgraded steel type.

 

someone will know

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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what year did the 4EAT get that steel 'sleeve' the clutches ride in, in place of aluminum? maybe after 97 or 98 or so but ????, could be you need to replace some parts with the upgraded steel type.

 

someone will know

 

I don't see a response and the comment is almost a year old, but just in case someone reads this looking for the same info, the rebuilders tell me that they made the change in the middle of 1997. The rebuilder I talked to says they only buy transmissions from vehicle production dates 1/98 and later. I've been trying to find a serial number break but so far haven't come across it - beginning to wonder whether it even exists.

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I don't see a response and the comment is almost a year old, but just in case someone reads this looking for the same info, the rebuilders tell me that they made the change in the middle of 1997. The rebuilder I talked to says they only buy transmissions from vehicle production dates 1/98 and later. I've been trying to find a serial number break but so far haven't come across it - beginning to wonder whether it even exists.

 

I found this; http://www.legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm

 

along with a mention of RockAuto listing a 'repair sleeve' for transmissions. haven't confirmed that and it may be an old reference.

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I found this; http://www.legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm

 

along with a mention of RockAuto listing a 'repair sleeve' for transmissions. haven't confirmed that and it may be an old reference.

 

Good write-up and I'm glad to see it confirms what I was told on the dates - Thanks! I'd sure like to know about the repair sleeve from Rock Auto too. I looked it up and they say it's for repair of the rear extension housing, which is the right nomenclature for the housing we're talking about, but the photo of the part is a generic one. Rock Autos prices are usually good but you need to be really sure on the part. And I won't waste my money on their expedited shipping. Got bit by that a couple of months ago when we did head gaskets, timing belt, pulleys, etc. on my Subaru. They don't start counting until they get the part released from a warehouse somewhere, so my 2 day turned into 10 days. I still buy stuff from Rock Auto if they're the best deal but if I need it PDQ then I go to the dealer, NAPA or wherever.

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Good write-up and I'm glad to see it confirms what I was told on the dates - Thanks! I'd sure like to know about the repair sleeve from Rock Auto too. I looked it up and they say it's for repair of the rear extension housing, which is the right nomenclature for the housing we're talking about, but the photo of the part is a generic one. Rock Autos prices are usually good but you need to be really sure on the part. And I won't waste my money on their expedited shipping. Got bit by that a couple of months ago when we did head gaskets, timing belt, pulleys, etc. on my Subaru. They don't start counting until they get the part released from a warehouse somewhere, so my 2 day turned into 10 days. I still buy stuff from Rock Auto if they're the best deal but if I need it PDQ then I go to the dealer, NAPA or wherever.

 

 

maybe dig around at www.opposedforces.com for a soob part number.

 

interesting, at RockAauto, the 'info' button leads to this; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1835962&cc=1269659

 

leftArrow.png Continue Shopping previousIMG.pngnextIMG.pnggetimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Finfo%2FSKF%2F99139-1.jpg&imagekey=1835962-0&width=450

Shaft to=1.3810"; Y width=.6300"; X width=.5120"; Shaft from=1.3750"; Shaft=1.378"; Install depth=.8130"; Flange outside diameter=1.6380IN Consisting of a thin wall shaft repair sleeve and a simple installation tool, SKF Speedi-Sleeve® shaft repair kits can take a worn shaft from scored to restored in less than 5 minutes.

 

Speedi-Sleeve® installation is possible without having to remove the shaft, and requires no change in seal size. Unlike time-consuming shaft regrinding and refinishing techniques that can produce poor-quality sealing surfaces, Speedi-Sleeve® installation ensures an ideal outer sealing surface every time.

 

Engineered from the finest AISI 304 stainless steel.

 

Installing a Speedi-Sleeve

SKF Warranty Information

12 months

 

 

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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