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Will a double row radiator fit in an xt?

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My radiator seems to have sprung a nasty leak. Does anyone know if a double row radiator will fit in an xt and will the hoses line up the same? I was also considering ditching the ac and converting the ac compressor to an air compressor if the space allows.

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It shouldhave had a dual row to begin with.

 

A GL radiator will fit, but you may have to swap the top and bottom rails to fit the XT core support

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While I was looking through my 1990 Loyale FSM it lists the automatic EA 82T as coming from the factory with a dual core. The standard trans unit, as not.

 

Check rock auto and compair.

 

Doug

 

SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # CU1099 MoreInfo2.png

us.gif ca.gif CU1099_FRO_P04.jpg

Choose: [Private Label Package] (Only 3 Remaining) ($177.79) -[Regular Inventory] (Only 2 Remaining) ($214.79) -- Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day$177.79

Edited by Quidam

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here's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140600935399?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

notice the part number SPICU1099 as Quidam stated, that is a duel core radiator.

 

the link I gave you is the cheapest I've found, the key is to do a google search for "SPICU1099" and see if you can find it cheaper anywhere else.

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So if the automatics came with dual cores and the manuals with singles, does that mean that the automatics with ac had thicker radiators with more forward mounting ac condensors?

 

I see some radiators listed as being for all transmissions, but specifically for non turbo models. Are they different between turbo and non?

 

I see plastic radiators listed for much cheaper? Should plastic be avoided?

 

Is that part # just for the specra radiator? If so, do you know where I can look to find the subaru part # for cross reference?

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So if the automatics came with dual cores and the manuals with singles, does that mean that the automatics with ac had thicker radiators with more forward mounting ac condensors?

 

I see some radiators listed as being for all transmissions, but specifically for non turbo models. Are they different between turbo and non?

 

I see plastic radiators listed for much cheaper? Should plastic be avoided?

 

Is that part # just for the specra radiator? If so, do you know where I can look to find the subaru part # for cross reference?

 

Yes, the automatic with dual core would be thicker. They also came with the "short" water pump, not a different mounting for the AC stuff.

 

If the radiators are listed for fitting all, it "probably" means they come with provisions for a transmission cooler, whether you use them or not.

 

Plastic shouldn't necessarilly be avoided, but If boost gets into the cooling system, they will fail before a copper/brass unit does. As in, it blows the end tanks apart and or off. Plastic/Aluminum are less expensive materials than Copper/Brass. Copper/Brass much easier to repair should you need to.

 

Yes, that's the Spectra part #, don't have a factory part number for you.

 

 

However, from the FSM for the 1987 DL/Gl/RX/GL-10 and the 1990 XT and XT6.

 

The 1987 Non Turbo and Turbo MT, and 1990 XT6 radiators measure: 25.39" Long X 12.68" Tall X 0.63" thick. The turbo AT same dimimensions but 1.26" thick.

 

26.38" Long X 13.07" Tall X 0.63" thick for The 1990 XT.

 

Hope that makes sense and remember that there are two different water pumps with different lengths. If someone else knows that the AC condensor and radiator were mounted foreward, please post it.

 

Doug

Edited by Quidam

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here's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140600935399?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

notice the part number SPICU1099 as Quidam stated, that is a duel core radiator.

 

the link I gave you is the cheapest I've found, the key is to do a google search for "SPICU1099" and see if you can find it cheaper anywhere else.

 

I went ahead and bought this one. I really need to get my car back on the road. It just seems like every time I replace something on this car, something else breaks.:-\ I'm about due for a new stearing rack and new rear struts next. This really is the most unreliable car I have ever owned. Over $2k in parts that I've had to put into it, and I've maybe had the joy of putting 5k miles on.

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I went ahead and bought this one. I really need to get my car back on the road. It just seems like every time I replace something on this car, something else breaks.:-\ I'm about due for a new stearing rack and new rear struts next. This really is the most unreliable car I have ever owned. Over $2k in parts that I've had to put into it, and I've maybe had the joy of putting 5k miles on.

 

How many other 25 year old turbo cars have you owned?;)

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This is the first turbocharged car ive owned, but ive had a 88 taurus, 86 crx si, a 90 crx si, and a 93 del sol si with a cammed b16 with nitrous, and none have drained my wallet as much as this car. So far, I've replaced both front cv axles, soon a rear axle, front struts, rear pads/rotors, tires, clutch, starter, battery twice, water pump, all the coolant hoses, cap and rotor, plugs, fuel filter, an idler bearing, muffler, air filter, heater resisters... some things I've added for performance- electric fan, ford tmic, blaster coil, 2" lift blocks, and 28" general grabbers on chrome nissan 15" rims (which I have yet to have the joy of installing since I need different front struts and extra lugs)

 

Some other problems I have with it- the drivers side seatbelt doesn't work, the passenger seatbelt is gone, none of buttons on the left pod work because the innards are broke, the radio is mia, the wiper randomly turns on, the key doesn't match the doorlocks so I can't leave anything valuable in it, glovebox is stuck shut, heater speed 4 doesn't work...I probably wouldn't mind as much about putting all this $ into it if the frame rails were not completely rusted out. It's doomed to be a parts car if I can't replace the sheetmetal.

Edited by 87.5ea82txt

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Sorry about the rant. Anyways, this is the radiator they sent me. Its got some fin damage. Should I send it back or just install it and hope that it doesn't leak?

 

2012-02-22_150600.jpg

Edited by 87.5ea82txt

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How many other 25 year old turbo cars have you owned?;)

 

MAybe you can't blame the reliability on the car itself for being what it is, but rather maybe picking a bad example, one that has let to rust with no maintenance and bad stereo installs, etc.

 

Dont give up thus far unless you want your 2 stax to be in vain. if you fix everything, what is left to break?

 

one should be frugal with these cars

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The first one I got would've been a money pit. I ate my 5 Hundo plus travel expenses and made it a parts car.

 

You should consider whether you keep fighting it or get a nicer one and transfer your new parts.

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Sorry to bump an old thread, But it kind of relates. My 86 gl ea82 has been running a bit warm at higher speeds.

I recently replaced the water pump,OEM thermostat, and flushed the cooling system and filled with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Yet it is still running warm.It hasn't hit the red mark so Im hoping damage is minimal.

Before leaning to a head gasket issue I would like to replace the radiator.

 

So, IF I can find a dual core radiator will it clear the 110mm water pump on my car?

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As far as I Know, the Turbo's Double Row Radiator will fit onto the Non-turbo EA82 engine's bay without issues.

 

In Fact I Run my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with a Double Row Radiator, but it is a Brass one, made in Honduras. :)

 

I kindly suggest you to Look at the earlier posts of this thread for references.

 

Remember that the XT and XT6 Radiators are Not as tall as the Loyale ones, due to their Front end Body design.

 

Kind Regards.

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I ended up returning that radiator and they sent me one that was well secured, not like the first one that was just thrown in a box. Anyways, it was in fact a single row even though they advertised it as a double. Nonetheless, it cools just fine even on the hottest of days. I followed loyal 2.7's writeup on using the temp switch he mentions and it keeps the gauge right at the half way mark.

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Keeping the engine from overheating, is not a performance boost, other than making it perform better than a pile of molten aluminum dripping from your engine mounts.

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