TheLoyale Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Also, this is in fact everything I need in a Weber swap, correct? Its listed as a DGEV, but I want to make sure that it has Electric choke. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1976-1989-1600-1800-OHV-EA71-81-Weber-Carb-Kit-/330700425369?fits=Make:Subaru&hash=item4cff480899&item=330700425369&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_3551wt_958 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 That looks like it has the electric choke. I hear it is better to buy the parts individually for the swaps ( I think GD said that at one point not 100% sure....) that being said I have always bought the kits. One of mine needs to be re-jetted, the other one (now on my white wagon) works very well, but I think I called and ordered that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Mick is good to talk to, i believe this is the setup we got for Guido. Everything was there from what i understand. Although there was alot more to switch over from FI to carburated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 yep, that will be the kit you want if you're going the kit route... the linkage kit that comes with it is nice too. I've not always used it before, but it makes it easier on a ea81 body vehicle. for putting it on the ea82 with FI throttle cable, I had to modify (bend) the bracket quite a bit for the lenth of the cable, but it still worked out okay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Cool! Yeah I'm just gonna get the kit. At least it comes with everything I need for the EA81. The only thing I'm not sure about is the exposed air cleaner setup. How does this effect extreme cold starts? Theres no heat riser, and the filter is wide open, more exposed to water spray and such. I read that you can't really use the EA81 air intake mod unless you have a lifted rig with a dropped motor. Just want to make sure my car will start when its -20* and blowing snow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I've had no problems starting mine during cold temps. Did have issues of carb icing, mostly in fresh deep snow, or from the blowing stuff behind semi's. Cured that by fashioning a shield simular to the Factory one. Only mine was made from Aluminum roof flashing. Ran the Weber short airfilter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 I was actually looking at one of those NOS molded plastic covers on ebay. It was about $20. Maybe fabricating one up would be the better route, plus being sheet steel. Reason I ask about cold starting it, my dad said his Brother had similar air filters on his 427 '69 Impala (2-fours, Cam, Heads, Headers ect) and had hard times starting in the winter. I, having never looked at carbs till now (Except small engines) don't know what to expect from them. Fuel Injection was the era I grew up in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Where do these intake bolts like to break off? Up by the head or lower, where the threads start? I have been soaking the bolts since last week, with PB and DeepCreep, so far, the 3 that I can get to without disassembling anything, only one broke loose and turns nicely, the other two, don't feel like they want to move, if I put any more torque on them, something might break. I am thinking, that if the heads break off, I can still grab the shank with a locking pliers and remove the stubs that way, once the intake is off. Is there something else I could soak the bolts down with? PB and Deepcreep are the best I have, Yield was great stuff, but don't have anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I can recommend a product called "Freeze Off" made by CRC, or there is one called "CorrosionX" that is REALLY good, but it is not cheap. We got both of these products at our local True Value Hardware store. CorrosionX has a website: http://www.corrosionx.com/ the CorrosionX was $17 for a 6 oz spray can - but it does work very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Cool! Yeah I'm just gonna get the kit. At least it comes with everything I need for the EA81. The only thing I'm not sure about is the exposed air cleaner setup. How does this effect extreme cold starts? Theres no heat riser, and the filter is wide open, more exposed to water spray and such. I read that you can't really use the EA81 air intake mod unless you have a lifted rig with a dropped motor. Just want to make sure my car will start when its -20* and blowing snow the stock air box is roughly the height of the short filter... it might work, depending on how you fab up the intake. I put a weber on mtngrizzly way back in 2000, and It was my daily driver many winters without issues... though with your 3 vehicles, your ski wagon will have the coldest cabin temps unless you are putting in a new heater core... and even then, it's still no heat wave unless you're doing a good distance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 though with your 3 vehicles, your ski wagon will have the coldest cabin temps unless you are putting in a new heater core... and even then, it's still no heat wave unless you're doing a good distance... Actually! When I bought the car, it was a cold night. I had the heat on Hot with fan speed about 1 or 2. It felt really warm in the cabin and the temp gauge was rock steady. Once (If ever) I get another intake swapped on and my new genuine thermo in with new coolant, we should have no worries! I can't wait to drive the "Ski wagon" in winter! (If I ever get that far...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I was actually looking at one of those NOS molded plastic covers on ebay. It was about $20. Maybe fabricating one up would be the better route, plus being sheet steel. Yeah, I just cut/bent the flashing to fit around the disty and wrap around the front of the air filter. Wasn't purty, but it worked......... Not sure if the Factory one would've worked to shield the air filter. Reason I ask about cold starting it, my dad said his Brother had similar air filters on his 427 '69 Impala (2-fours, Cam, Heads, Headers ect) and had hard times starting in the winter. Nice Impala.. :burnout:Could've been improper choke setting, or like some builds of that era, the starting circuit wiring wasn't done correctly. '69 still had points in the disty, coil was fed only 6 volts from the ignition switch via resistor wire. 12 volts were fed to coil during start by another wire off the starter solenoid to aid in starting engine. Some people overlooked that "extra wire" during engine builds. I know I fixed a few back in the day. In '69 I was in the 9th grade, Class of '72. Damn, I really feel "old" now... I, having never looked at carbs till now (Except small engines) don't know what to expect from them. Fuel Injection was the era I grew up in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 A huge load has been taken off my mind, all the intake bolts have came out with almost little effort. I didn't even use heat, Bravo! Some pictures: 5 of the bolts came all the way out, one is stuck in the manifold (Turns, but won't tap out) I'll work it a little more and get it out. I will also wire wheel all the studs clean and use anti-seize for reinstall. Cleaned the valley and bellhousing up. I have bought a new PCV, I have Intake gaskets and V-belts on order, I will be buying all different size hoses to replace every hose. I am also going to replace the heater core hoses. When I get the new intake, I will be painting it the same Pontiac blue as the air cleaner and Valve covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Good to hear all the bolts came loose. Rust penetrant will help in getting the last one freed. Working on that with the replacement manifold for you. All 3 bolts on DS are refusing to come out of the manifold. Shouldn't have left them in there.... Got them soaking with some Yield, They turn, but are refusing to slide out. How much stuff do you want me to remove from the manifold? Like all of the steel vac lines you won't need with Weber, and such. I have the T-stat removed, carb off, and a few other items. Everything else is soaking in some Yield. Manifold is off the Brown '86 BRAT which last ran 7-8 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 NOS front skirt 2wd though... http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SUBARU-NOS-FRONT-SKIRT-PART-752420321-NEW-PART-/120836881654?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c22707cf6&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Its up to you how much stuff you want to remove. I can always swap stuff from my intake. I'm not Weberizing it ATM, so I'll be using everything. Just want my car to run again Mick, that is the lower rad support, yeah? Looks slightly different than mine, probably because it is a 2WD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Mick, that is the lower rad support, yeah? Looks slightly different than mine, probably because it is a 2WD? well, I think its the part on the front of the core support. the main core support with headlight cutouts, and this piecs are assembled together it looks like from the parts book. and yes, it's different because it's the 2wd part... probably similar, but I'm guessing the same general shape... depending on how bad yours is, this one could probably be cut and welded in to clean stuff up nicely... especially if you have to cut and fab up the lower core support.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 I would hate to buy a NOS part, only to cut it up and use it for my purpose. Tom Redmond said he has one from a Brat, so I will probably be swapping that one on. I would have taken on off the '82 Hatch I found, but it was in a slight collision and was dented. As for whats going on, I'm hoping to finish welding up the passenger side rocker this weekend, and then coat the entire floor on that side. Then its onto the Driver side rocker and floor. I am desperately trying to get this car driving in a months time so I can take it to the Don Miller Subaru Show, Its going to be tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) Its up to you how much stuff you want to remove. I can always swap stuff from my intake. I'm not Weberizing it ATM, so I'll be using everything. Just want my car to run again I shall leave it as it is then. Well,,, after getting the man/head bolts out. I have your addy, I'll get it boxed and shipped tomorrow. Pay me later, I trust you. edit; Ok, bolts out!! Much corrosion in holes, cleaned them out and sprayed some PB Blaster on everything. All bagged up now. Included a good SPFI type EA82 EGR valve for when you do the Weber swap, you will want it. Edited May 9, 2012 by TomRhere update.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) I shall leave it as it is then. Well,,, after getting the man/head bolts out. I have your addy, I'll get it boxed and shipped tomorrow. Pay me later, I trust you. Thank you. I appreciate the comment! plus, if I didn't pay you, I don't think I would be very welcome at your house haha I spent a little tire cleaning up the engine and engine bay, I also cleaned up the original alternator and added a little flare (As you will see in coming pictures) I am debating on color, for the new manifold. Pontiac Blue (Same color as Valve covers and Air cleaner) Metallic Gloss Gunmetal White Silver (Alloy look) Cherry Blossom Red (Japanese Power Color) Which one...? Edited May 10, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 edit; Ok, bolts out!! Much corrosion in holes, cleaned them out and sprayed some PB Blaster on everything. All bagged up now. Included a good SPFI type EA82 EGR valve for when you do the Weber swap, you will want it. Cool! Much obliged. My car is gonna run again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 Original Starter! Cleaned up and repainted the original Alt (Now it'll probably fail) Repainted the PS bracket/tensioner. Fill tube. Now have a matching center cap for the spare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostbrat Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 NOS front skirt 2wd though... http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SUBARU-NOS-FRONT-SKIRT-PART-752420321-NEW-PART-/120836881654?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c22707cf6&vxp=mtr I have that and the radiator shell from subaru. crashed mine once and bought 2 setups for next time.. hope to never need them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 I have made the decision to paint the new Manifold, Cheery Blossom Red (Or something similar that I can find locally) Gonna check out what Wal-Mart and Menards have for paint. I can get the exact color matched in an aerosol from Grimmspeed.com for $14, but I don't want to wait for it since I might have the manifold, Monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrabrat Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Thank you. I appreciate the comment! plus, if I didn't pay you, I don't think I would be very welcome at your house haha I spent a little tire cleaning up the engine and engine bay, I also cleaned up the original alternator and added a little flare (As you will see in coming pictures) I am debating on color, for the new manifold. Pontiac Blue (Same color as Valve covers and Air cleaner) Metallic Gloss Gunmetal White Silver (Alloy look) Cherry Blossom Red (Japanese Power Color) Which one...? I'm doing mine in STI wrinkle finish red... I have to give a nod to the ej257. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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