TomRhere Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 what's up with the EGR valve with the coolant pipe? that's not anything I've ever seen before.... That line off the EGR goes to the Anti-Afterburn Valve, (AAV), mounted on the DS strut tower. The short section of rubber hose, (nearest to EGR), has been a source of vac leak on a couple of mine. PITA to change out on the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 That line off the EGR goes to the Anti-Afterburn Valve, (AAV), mounted on the DS strut tower. The short section of rubber hose, (nearest to EGR), has been a source of vac leak on a couple of mine. PITA to change out on the vehicle. Tom, you got rid of all that stuff, so you need to use your original EGR valve then... or use a block plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Ah! So that is what the big black one-way valve is. Yes I removed everything for that, and will have to use the EGR Tom sent me. What does an Ani-afterburn valve do? The carb has a dieseling solenoid, so what the AAV do? TomR said I can possibly take the Hitachi down to basics, I would like to do this for simplicity. Tom, That section of rubber hose by the EGR turned to mooshy, cracked, ripped crap. I wonder if that was my vac leak (sarcastic) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 a standard ea81 EGR valve will fit on there... do you still have the EGR valve off your original manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 and if you are putting the weber on, you only need 3-5 vac lines. brake booster to manifold disty vac advance to carb heater control vac line(s) to manifold EGR valve if using it Ben's EA81 in SPFI body just has 3... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 a standard ea81 EGR valve will fit on there... do you still have the EGR valve off your original manifold? The EGR with the pipe on it is the original EGR, I am going to swap on an EA82 EGR that Tom gave me (It only has the vac line out the top) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Do you even need the EGR? This car should be able to run great without all of the emissions crap and you're trying to clean things up under the hood, so why not ditch it entirely? Do the webers have electric choke? If so, get it, that will simplify things even more (choke just requires one power wire, can run one right from the alt). I'd ditch the catalytic converter as well. It is illegal to remove factory installed emissions equipment from a vehicle, but I doubt they would ever pay attention to and old 4 cylinder Subaru. The car should run better and get better power too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 (edited) The Hitachi DCP306-21 has Electric Choke, so the Power is already there. The Weber DGEV is the Electric Choke carb, the Weber DGAV is the Water choke. There is one cat on this car, but there is no O2 sensor. I am going to make a full custom exhuast since its all rotted and patch worked. Custom UEL header, Custom Midpipe with resonator, and either straight pipe it out the rump roast or run a Turbo muffler. Edited May 15, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Here are some pics of the finished passenger side floor. Products I use. And one of the best things I've bought. Auto Darkening helmet, there is no other way to weld in my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Looking good!!! Auto Darkening is where it is at. I would never go back after using one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Thank you Shaun! Anyone know WTF this is? And can I delete it from the equation? I don't have the Anti-Afterburn Valve on this anymore, and I want to delete all the emissions stuff on this motor and only use what I need to, to make it run properly. Also, what does this run to? I have forgotten, and did not take a good picture before hand. Can I delete the EGR all together without any cons in running? I have some pictures of vac lines, and want to know what I can remove, since I don't have $300 to blow on a Weber right now. I think this is for the HVAC controls, there are two hoses. One goes into the fire wall, and the other comes out of some relay looking deal. Here are two TVVs, what am I to do with these? Also, what is this on the Carb? And the two that run out the front of the Carb. TomR said I could use one of these to run the Vac advance, and the other could run to a TVV to control the EGR (Which I may or may not use depending if I can remove it) Front shot of entire intake/carb assy. I really don't want to hook everything back up the way it is supposed to be, as I would need to replace every line to ensure no vac leaks (Most of the lines are hard) Perhaps I should just wait and buy a Weber, instead of cleaning up the Hitachi? I am at a loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Those things are a mess. Glad I removed all that stuff. I believe that this Is a kick up for A/C mine had it as well, when the ac turns on it raises the idle rpm yours actually has the linkage to the carb, mine was missing. The hose coming off the block goes to the intake, I think it is a coolant line. The other stuff is all different from mine, so I couldn't say. It is so nice to have that rats nest gone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I'd wait for the weber. then you ditch all the TVVs, the black hardlines, etc... clean and simple. did the AC work on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Alright, so I removed that piece now (White) I didn't think about the A/C, good call. Turns out it was stuck anyway, I had to break it loose, so now it would work if I needed it. Also, I figured out what this hose is for (Yellow) When I apply negative pressure, the diaphragm moves and works a linkage, I think this is for the Choke. As for the other hose (Blue) I don't know what its purpose is, I applied Negitive and positive pressure to it, and got nothing (Unless my mouth can not provide enough suction) Now, as for these. These have continuous vacuum to them while the motor is running, so I could designate one for the Vac advance on the disty, and then the other one for the Hvac controls? Also, this other hose (Blue) I think this goes to one of the emission canister lines, can I just cap this one off from the carb? I think this yellow hose ran to that A/C Idle up on the intake? So this must be a switching unit for that, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I'd wait for the weber. then you ditch all the TVVs, the black hardlines, etc... clean and simple. did the AC work on it? Dunno, it didn't have any charge when I undid the Aluminum lines. But I bet everything works, which is why I'm giving all the components to TomR. Perhaps I will do a Weber swap, probably more straight forward. Ok, who wants to buy a Subaru Brat R/C, comes with everything for $120 shipped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) Alright, if I buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-32-36-DGEV-CARBURETOR-ELECTRIC-CHOKE-CARB-NEW-GENUINE-WEBER-32-36DGEV-/120890615483?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c25a466bb&vxp=mtr#ht_2577wt_1202 What else do I need for the swap and where can I get the parts? I need the proper manifold adaptor/gasket, Throttle linkage? And Air cleaner? Is that it, what am I forgetting? Or would it just be more cost and time effective to buy this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/330700425369?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_3551wt_958 Sorry for the questions, I'm new to this stuff and just want to make sure I do this right the first time, no dicking around Edited May 16, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I have made my final decision, and am going to buy the Conversion kit when I have the money. I guess this will be the next priority, other then getting the rear disc brakes and spare Fuel pump to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Tom, you got rid of all that stuff, so you need to use your original EGR valve then... or use a block plate... Swapped on an EA82 SPFI EGR valve. No real reason to delete EGR, doesn't effect engine performance that much for regular driving. Now, if you're after "best ET" on the 1/4 mile track, it may help to loose it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Alright, if I buy this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-32-36-DGEV-CARBURETOR-ELECTRIC-CHOKE-CARB-NEW-GENUINE-WEBER-32-36DGEV-/120890615483?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c25a466bb&vxp=mtr#ht_2577wt_1202 What else do I need for the swap and where can I get the parts? I need the proper manifold adaptor/gasket, Throttle linkage? And Air cleaner? Is that it, what am I forgetting? Or would it just be more cost and time effective to buy this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/330700425369?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_3551wt_958 Sorry for the questions, I'm new to this stuff and just want to make sure I do this right the first time, no dicking around I would go with the Redline kit, just cause it has everything needed for the most part. With the other one, you still need to source stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 If you want to ditch the EGR, I could probably help you make a nice block off plate. Draw it up in SolidWorks and then machine it out of an aluminum plate on the mill at work. Could even polish it. Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I'll keep the EA82 EGR on it, I guess there really is no point on ditching it. So here is what I have so far, I am in the mindset of doing a Weber swap. So I removed the Hitachi and most of the unneeded stuff from the intake, and then I installed the into onto the Block, and torqued the bolts to 13ft.lbs like is stated in the Haynes. I have one bolt that gets snug, but I can no torque it, just turns. I wonder if this will become an issue? I still have the other 5 bolts torqued to spec (Pray for no leaks!) Non-AC alt Bracket. What should I do with this PCV junction? Here is what I removed so far: So both of these are part of the Anti-Afterburn system? Here is the Hitachi, probably right where it needs to be (On the garbage can) Now, are all these relays for the A/C? And I can remove them as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 have been post some photos of the engine in Guido now... has been stripped down to bare minimum needed to run weber... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I'll keep the EA82 EGR on it, I guess there really is no point on ditching it. So here is what I have so far, I am in the mindset of doing a Weber swap. So I removed the Hitachi and most of the unneeded stuff from the intake, and then I installed the into onto the Block, and torqued the bolts to 13ft.lbs like is stated in the Haynes. I have one bolt that gets snug, but I can no torque it, just turns. I wonder if this will become an issue? I still have the other 5 bolts torqued to spec (Pray for no leaks!) hmmm. probably will leak and re-corrode the bolts.... pull intake back off and you'll have 2 choices: 1. helicoil that hole 2. tap to just slightly larger and run a slightly bigger drill bit through the matching hole in intake... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I was thinking of chasing the threads with a tap, maybe to clean up and recut what is there. Does it ever end...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 What should I do with this PCV junction? Large end goes to the aircleaner port . Smaller hose goes to the PCV Valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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