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TheLoyale

My '83 GL: The Ski Wagon

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Here are some pics I took two winters ago, I saw my future car, outside of a bar in Waukesha. Pretty amazing how I ran into this car, and now I own it!

0125112033.jpg

 

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0125112034.jpg

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Ok, lets get down to some serious talk about Painting.

 

When the time comes to repaint this car, I am going to repaint it the Factory Porcelain White. I am going to repaint the car in my garage, I am going to remove the Doors so I can get the jams.

 

What I need to know is some good products to use. Should I use a brush un stripper to take it down to bare metal? After I prime it, should I use a Sealer? What type of primer should I use? I don't want it to start flaking off a few months later, I guess Acid etching is the way to go, but is this what the pros use? Should I do a two stage or single stage paint (Aka Clear or no Clear) Where can I get those large sheets of paper to mask things off? Using Newspaper is for the birds. Also what type of masking tape do pros use to get a crisp clean line, with no seepage? 3M doesn't seem to work very well, it has a rough line.

 

I've been watching "Chop, Cut, Rebuild" which is giving me a lot of ideas on body work and painting, but I dunno how far is to far, this is not a Show car, but I want to do a great job on it, so it looks factory or better then factory.

 

Who here has done serious professional repainting? I'm not talking about rattle cans lol.

 

Also, can you wet sand with 2000grit before you apply clear? I want to do this right the first time, and have a nice end result, without wasting money.

Edited by TheLoyale

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you don't need to wet sand before clear the new stuff hides

alot of stuff just make sure you clean it really good before you clear it

 

trust me you can do amazing paint jobs in a shed lol i know for a fact

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Thanks for the confirmation eman!

 

Also, to add to the questions below. Once I prime everything, do I need to lightly sand the primer before I add the Sealer coat? Scotch-brite pad?

 

And then would I just apply paint over the sealer coat? I have the idea of using a Black sealer, to maybe give the white a different depth/tint.

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sand the primer good with 320 if your doing a solid color if it's metalic go to

400 grit make sure it's flat as a pancake if it's wrinkley it will show up later on

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Preparation will make or break a paint job - the better your prep work, the better the final result.

 

I suggest self etching primer.

 

light wet sand, and tack off - must be CLEAN before applying paint.

 

There is a product that a lot of the pro airbrush artists use called Bulldog Adhesion Promoter - it is wiped over the surface to help remove oils from fingerprints, and other contaminants, and helps the paint adhere better.

 

2 stage (color/clear) will give better results, but requires more work.

 

As for the masking paper - you can get pre-taped masking paper at Menards, in varying widths - in the paint section.

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If the inside of the garage is bare wood (unfinished), put some plastic sheeting up on the rafters and down the walls to keep dust at bay. Also, spray water on the floor just before painting, helps deter dust kickup also.

 

Used to hang with a guy what did body work and paint. Prep is key to a good finish.

 

I've taped off alot of cars for Lynn, all he ever used was plain masking tape, various widths. Didn't like the Blue painter's tape at all, said it was crap for automotive work.

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I've taped off alot of cars for Lynn, all he ever used was plain masking tape, various widths. Didn't like the Blue painter's tape at all, said it was crap for automotive work.

 

True fact. Do not use the blue stuff, been down that road. It works well to tape things off, but it will eternally be stuck to your car. My dad made that mistake, and I'm still finding it in places on his benz. I've had really good luck using the 3m green tape, you can get it at most parts stores, and I think even wall-mart sells it in the automotive section.

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I've used the Green tape as well, yes way better than the Blue. Does not get stuck to the car. But the tape off line isn't sharp, I'll have to ask a automotive painter, what tape they use.

 

So, whats the deal with this? This EA81 only has the outer lights lit, when I turn the headlights on, in my GL, all 4 come on? Is that right?

i250608.jpg

 

If all four are supposed to illuminate at all times, I want to rewire them, so the inner lights are only for High-beams. As I am going to run HIDs for my Headlights, and will run 100w bulbs for my Highbeams.

 

Scott, I'm gonna call upon you again, perhaps you can help me wire this up, the same time I convert the corner lights to blinkers.

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im pretty sure the inners are your hi beams, i know its not a soob but my 76 celica notchback (3.8 regal gnx motor/gm running gear/ traction bars =) 5spd!) operated that way.

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Inners are indeed Highbeams, but why are they on with the other headlights? If I use the Highbeam switch, the Highbeams get brighter. IDK.

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Odd, my 84 the outers only light up, inners are high beams. Having all four lit up would look awesome...but may be a bit bright for oncoming traffic.

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check to see if there's a set of connectors/wires from the outer to inner set. I snagged a set off a peugeot once. it was a factory made adjustable set to run both sets of headlights at once....

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are your inners dual filament perhaps? still, the wiring seems off tho

 

in stock form the inner lights are an H4561 sealed beam single filament 50w light.

the outers are an H4656

you could however use an H4 conversion for the inner as well but I am pretty sure that you would not be able to aim them like the outers.

 

Ben

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I inspected the wires in the engine bay, they all look factory from 1983. I can't really see anything linking both sets of bulbs together, as the wires for both sts of lights run right into the main harness and is covered with that plastic protector, tape even looks tight and factory. So I dunno?

 

Here is what I did today, I put a battery charger on the batt (12v 6amp) I then turned the head lights on, all four are on, if I turn the brights on, all four are on, but the outers become dim, and the inners become brighter.

 

SO, I unplugged the inners, and turned the high beams on again, the outers still become dim, even with no extra draw on them, WTF? I found the High-beam relay, it is the one labled "White" on the passenger side tower. It clicks, so I assume it is working correctly.

 

I don't know what to make of the dimming situation? Why would low-beams become dim when you turn the high-beams on, if the high-beams are not connected, there shouldn't be any extra draw...?

 

I think if it were a short, the fuse would have blown, unless I'm not pushing enough amps into the system.

 

Perhaps I'll wait till I get it running again, so I have the alt to charge the system. The alt on these are what, 50amp?

 

Ben, thanks for the Sylvania part numbers.

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Getting my carb tomorrow. Will the jets that are already in it be correct? What size jets do they put in the DGEV from the factory?

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Usually, they are ready to go right out of the box... GD has posted the base jet and what have you sizes a couple of times.

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Alright.

 

So, since the Weber is not liquid cooled, I can cap off this coolant line which used to run to the intake, correct? I see no point in having it run to the intake, if the adaptor plate is going to cover it.

 

scs134.jpg

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Check out what I got today!

 

Weber001.jpg

 

Got the correct adapter first time. And the adapter clears the butterflies plates just fine.

Weber002.jpg

 

Weber004.jpg

 

Weber003.jpg

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Alright.

 

So, since the Weber is not liquid cooled, I can cap off this coolant line which used to run to the intake, correct? I see no point in having it run to the intake, if the adaptor plate is going to cover it.

 

I've done them both ways. mostly I left the hose there so the coolant still passes through the manifold. On Ben's, I just put a new hose on so coolant is always flowing through to the manifold. I've never plugged up the port at the carb mount, and have never had one leak either...

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Alright, that sounds good Mick. I am going to use the thick gasket Redline supplies and I am also going to use High-Temp RTV for extra protection (Like you would with a Waterpump) I figure I should never have to take the adaptor off the intake ever. Also, should I use some blue locktite on the plate mounting screws? I don't want them backing off, if that is an issue?

 

This is a really nice solid looking carb, Can't wait to get it fired up!

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as long as everything is still uninstalled, I would go ahead and do a gasket match port/polish on the manifold and adapter.... every little bit helps on these slugs :)

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