TheLoyale Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Do EA81s have Negative rear camber normally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 The tops of the wheels always tilt in on the front, and the rear all depends on if you have the torsion bar cranked up[, for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 (edited) I have the fronts cranked up to max (So I have a little positive, typical Subaru style) The rear tube I can't adjust, the bolt must be frozen. I may try harder later on (The rear is still higher than the front) I did kinda want to level it out sometime. Fox may disagree with me on that one, I know he likes the stinkbug stance. It doesn't look horrible, I just light things level to some extent. In other news, I have now removed the Weber DGEV, and I am going to slowly disassemble and check it out bit by bit. I am thinking this bucking has got to be some defect with the carb, either a casting defect or a gasket blocking a passage, or just a damaged component from sloppy assembly from the factory. Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth. Edited September 6, 2012 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 The tops of the wheels always tilt in on the front, and the rear all depends on if you have the torsion bar cranked up[, for the most part. Wrong. The rear camber has nothing to do with ride height. If you have bad rear camber, then something is bent. The camber (for all intensive purposes) is fixed, and does not change as the suspension cycles. The front is a whole different story.... camber changes all the time, as the suspension loads and unloads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Wrong. The rear camber has nothing to do with ride height. If you have bad rear camber, then something is bent. The camber (for all intensive purposes) is fixed, and does not change as the suspension cycles. The front is a whole different story.... camber changes all the time, as the suspension loads and unloads. I agree with you, so not sure how I'm WRONG. I guess I just worded it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 In other news, I have now removed the Weber DGEV, and I am going to slowly disassemble and check it out bit by bit. I am thinking this bucking has got to be some defect with the carb, either a casting defect or a gasket blocking a passage, or just a damaged component from sloppy assembly from the factory. Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth. I thought it did the bucking with the original carb too? when it's running, spray carb cleaner around the throttle linkage on the outside of the carb. if it engine speed changes, you have a leak there... still seems to me that somethings not quite right with how the linkage and cable are adjusted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Mick you are correct, it did buck with the original carb. It runs better now because of the new carb and full-tune up, but the bucking is still there. I will try the carb cleaner trick after I put the carb back on. Dads gonna disassemble it and check it out first (Since he knows WTF he's looking at) I'm more like, uhhh, ok this is the Metering jet, and this one is the idle...? :-p Will post back if we find anything after we tear it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentz912 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 The tops of the wheels always tilt in on the front, and the rear all depends on if you have the torsion bar cranked up[, for the most part. Wrong. The rear camber has nothing to do with ride height. If you have bad rear camber, then something is bent. The camber (for all intensive purposes) is fixed, and does not change as the suspension cycles. The front is a whole different story.... camber changes all the time, as the suspension loads and unloads. See the connection now bratman? Idasho is making the point that because the pivot point for the rear suspension is "in front" of the rear wheels more than it is "inside/towards the center of the car" of the wheels, that a ride height change is not going to have the same corellating camber changes that the front would experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 *Puts gun to engine block* Why do you keep bucking! I think you still have a vac leak. Run through it again, what vac lines do you have attached to the intake? I would start by removing the lines and capping the ports, one at a time. beyond that, carb cleaner or propane gas works great for finding leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 See the connection now bratman? Idasho is making the point that because the pivot point for the rear suspension is "in front" of the rear wheels more than it is "inside/towards the center of the car" of the wheels, that a ride height change is not going to have the same corellating camber changes that the front would experience. Thanks Wentz, I guess I could have made it a bit more clear... maybe :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Mick got the thermo switches today! Thank you for the extras, that was unexpected! My fan now kicks on when it should! So, dad took the carb apart as I watched. Looked at everything, cleaned everything, reassembled it, installed it, started it up and it runs the same. I got out a can of starting fluid spray, and starting spraying areas on around the carb. I sprayed the rear of the Adaptor plate where it meets the carb, idle smoothed and picked up (It has not effect if the motor is at idle) I had it revving steady while I sprayed it and then I noticed the increase. SO, I Blue RTV'ed the gasket to the adaptor plate (Did not RTV the carb side! As that would be a big no no.) I don't think that gasket is leaking anymore, but it still bucks. There are no other vac leaks that I find. I am running an EA82 EGR, perhaps I should remove the EGR all together and make a block-off plate. The EGR is moving during revving like it should, but I dunno... I am running out of ideas, everything we can think of and try has failed. I'm really thinking of selling it at this point, I'm done. Loyale and Landcruiser, no more of this carb'ed mess. I am very displeased with how rough the castings are with this Weber, my Dad has never seen a carb with such poor casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 See the connection now bratman? Idasho is making the point that because the pivot point for the rear suspension is "in front" of the rear wheels more than it is "inside/towards the center of the car" of the wheels, that a ride height change is not going to have the same corellating camber changes that the front would experience. Thanks Wentz, I guess I could have made it a bit more clear... maybe :-p Lol, thanks guys. Like I said, I agree with you, I just didn't word it right! I have spent many...many...many...many hours working on these cars and completely understand how they work, I just didn't type it out right. So sorry for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 There are no other vac leaks that I find. So as I suggested.... you still have a leak somewhere. Do you have a Vac line for the H-Vac? How about brake booster? What about the dizzy? Does the car have cruise control? And EGR as you mentioned. All are still suspect until you rule them out systematically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 HVAC is not the issue, I capped it off once. Disty advance doesn't leak, its a new hose. Brake booster doesn't leak, I capped it off, it too has all new hose. There is no cruise. EGR does not leak. All hoses and lines are new, I've gone over this whole motor. Intake gaskets are new. EVERYTHING IS NEW! As I said before, I am displeased with the quality of the carb. I've seen better castings come out of China, you think Germany would step up their game. Or did I just get a junk carb from the get-go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 I am also bothered by the Adaptor plate, it doesn't line up smoothly with the opening on the intake. There is a lip on both ends, all these imperfections. I've seen Holly kits where everything is spot on, adaptor plates line up perfect, carbs are very smooth inside (Flawless Barrels) mine are rough and gritty. $320, should have been more like $50 for what "I" got. Anyone else get this poor quality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Yet you say the bucking was there BEFORE the new carb? Maybe you should start looking elsewhere. Traditionally busking under light throttle = lean condition. Typically that means vac leak, or fuel delivery problem. Obviously I have never driven your car, but can you explain the symptoms again? Maybe its ignition related? What plugs are you running? How old are the wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 EVERYTHING IS NEW. NGK BPR6ES (Or whatever is stock) NGK Wires New Fuel Filters All new Fuel lines under car (And brake lines) Fuel pump seems to work fine, its only 3psi max. NEW Disty. NEW Cap/Rotor. The Exhaust smells rich, burns your eyes. If you lean it a little, the idle turns to crap, Lower, Lumpier, not as responsive. Drives good while engine braking, or harder throttle driving. Light throttle (Trying to just drive the speed limit) and the bucking starts and won't go away unless there is more load on the motor or if you feed a little more gas. If you slow down to make a turn while in 2nd, get back on the gas to finish the turn, it bucks and sputters unless you give it more throttle. Slow Parking lot driving is a no go with this, bucking and sputtering unless you feed more gas, by then you are driving 20mph or faster lol. It can not be a coil or sporadic spark, as that would effect it thoughout the powerband. Hot start up is sometimes trick, it won't just fire right up, you have to crank it and pump the gas once for it to fire, then it'll have a little dead spot off idle until it runs for a little bit (Why? The motor is still HOT) nothing really makes sense on this thing lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 As for mixture adjustment, if you have it 3 or 3-1/2 turns out, it acts like its too lean, cover the barrels with your hand, and the idle picks up and smooths out, so you richen it, I've tried it every which way you can, from 4 turns out to 6 turns out and everywhere in between. It still acts like it is starving, yet the exhaust smells like fuel and it burns you eyes. But it ALWAYS bucks the same, no matter how the mixture adjustment is set. Cold start up is perfect, one pump to close the choke, crank, fires up, idles up to about 3000rpm until you kick off the step-up. Idles great, idles great when hot. Drives good if you are on the gas or engine braking. Cruising sucks, starts bucking. You have to keep the motor under load for it not to buck. Also, once and a while when I shut it off, the engine fires back up (With key off) and will runs for 2 or 3 secs and then stalls (Probably just because fuel is igniting from the heat) I don't have any anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb. It doesn't diesel, it just starts back up lol and then stalls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Is it smooth if you drop down a gear or two and give it a few rpm's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 I really don't have any issue fixing stuff when I know what it is. A bad Head gasket, I can fix that. Cracked intake, I can fix that. Blow transmission, I can fix that. But when you don't have any idea on what the problem is, nor how to fix it, that is the frustrating part. You've gone over everything, time and time again. You start back and square one, and its always the same end result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 Is it smooth if you drop down a gear or two and give it a few rpm's? Drop down a gear or two, like going from 2nd to 4th? Bogging the motor a little bit? Yes it is still smooth, climbing hills, smooth, because the motor is working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 Basically if the motor isn't really being worked (Like driving on a flat surface) then the RPMs must keep climbing to avoid bucking. If you are climbing a hill, high or low RPMs it is smooth because of the load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Drop down a gear or two, like going from 2nd to 4th? Bogging the motor a little bit? Yes it is still smooth, climbing hills, smooth, because the motor is working. I meant going for example from 4th to 3rd or 2nd rather than shifting up. What rpm's are you seeing when it is surging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 7, 2012 Author Share Posted September 7, 2012 Oh, yeah, the engine response is right there when you downshift and bring the RPMs up, it has pull aswell. The bucking/surging/sputtering happens at any and all RPM range when you are lightly on the throttle (Not enough throttle to start pulling, just enough throttle to maintain speed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) sounds to me like its getting to much gas in the carb. making it sputter and buck because its drowning the carb. with to much gas which is why your smelling unused gas, my brat started having the same problem as yours and its parked for now waiting for a carb. rebuild (maybe spark plugs are not gaped right?) Edited September 7, 2012 by turbosubarubrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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