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My wife's 2000 Legacy timing belt broke even though the car only had 54k on the belt. We bought it used so maybe the installer didn't change the bearings when he did the job. Anyways, the car has 272k on it so I thought I'd just buy a lower mileage engine and install it. I want to learn to rebuild these motors so I'll fix the high mileage one later. I located a '02 with 148k, no core charge, and a 90 day warranty for $1150. The salvage yard said that according to his book there's a few differences, throttle body was one, that are different on the '02 motor compared to the 2000. I'm wondering what it would take to buy this motor vs. a 2000-2001 motor. I have a lead on a '00 178k mile motor for $1000 w/no core but I'd prefer the newer engine if possible. Thanks for any advice!!

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the swap is not hard. the main difference is probably the driver side cam sprocket. swap the old one on to your ''new'' engine and go. you might also swap the intake manifold with all the wiring, but i don't think that is necessary.

 

not sure where you have looked for engines, but this is a good source if you have not tried it.

 

http://www.car-part.com

 

put in your zip code and sort by distance. see what is close. then sort by price and go to the middle. you might find a deal in spite of shipping.

 

you can also try searchtempest.com and search craigslist as far away as you want.

 

good luck.

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As posted in a recent thread:

 

These are the 5 things that absolutely MUST match up. You can use any year from 2000-2004 2.5 SOHC North American engine as long as these things match the original engine (don't even think JDM-the "plumbing" is all different):

 

Left cam sprocket

Crank sprocket

EGR? (or not)

breather tube on block (there are 3 styles)

oil pump for automatic or manual

 

Once you get into 2005, changes took place involving exhaust ports, PZEV, and more.

 

And people wonder why we custom build every engine. :rolleyes:

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I ended up buying a 2000 motor w/178k on it for $999.99 plus tax. At least I kept the price under a thousand! The other motors I looked at weren't pulled yet and wanted a core so I went this route. In 6+ hours I'll have a good motor to install so my wife can drive, drive drive:burnout:! Thanks for the info on the differences between the years motors for future reference. I am very thankful for the online resources like this for getting information from knowledgeable people!

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Are you doing HG's idlers, timing belt, etc, etc, before installing the used engine?

 

Now is the time.

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Are you doing HG's idlers, timing belt, etc, etc, before installing the used engine?

 

Now is the time.

 

Good point. icon14.gif

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Definitely replace all the seals, gaskets, water pump and timing belt while it's out. It's a lot easier than doing it in the car.

Personally, I'd probably also replace the head gaskets while it's out. Even if they're not leaking. It's not particularly hard, and that'll ensure you don't have a problem with it in the future.

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Left cam sprocket

Crank sprocket

EGR? (or not)

breather tube on block (there are 3 styles)

oil pump for automatic or manual

 

And people wonder why we custom build every engine. :rolleyes:

 

None of that stuff is a deal killer for a good mechanic. I can swap any EJ251/253 around without much trouble. Use the manifold that goes with the car and modify the long-block as needed. Drilling and tapping EGR ports is the biggest hurdle for most people because of the 20mm x 1.5 plug/bottoming taps that you need for the job. But IT IS 100% POSSIBLE to swap them all around. A fellow board member here just put a '99 EJ223 into an '03. Runs great - no codes.

 

GD

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GD, I'm sure that for you, it's no sweat. But this is just for general information.

 

Like, you can't just take an entire engine out of a 2003 and put it into a 2000 without matching up these items. Yes, you can swap over the cam and crank sprocket, even switch out the breather tube.

 

You may know this, and I may know this, but John Q. Public generally does NOT know this.

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I agree with changing all the hard to fix in the car things before I install the motor. The guy I chatted with at the salvage yard was at work the day the car came in and talked to the owner of the car when he came to pick up some personal effects inside the car. He told him that he was really bummed because he'd just had the head gaskets changed a few thousand miles ago and now the car was wrecked. Judging by the timing belt condition I believe him. It's in very good shape and you can still easily see the numbers on the belt. Because of the importance of a good timing belt(I found out that's what broke on my old engine, not a bearing failure)I still might replace all the timing components but not do the head gasket. I'm also going to reseal the wrist pin access cover seals inside the bell housing to make sure they don't leak any time soon. It's dry inside the bell housing now but I'd like to make sure it stays that way! The new engine is bone dry on the bottom of the heads and oil pan too.

I am just about ready to loosen the motor for removal. I have the exhaust, motor mounts, and torque converter bolts to remove yet. It's a pretty easy motor to get our really. I'm looking forward to rebuilding the original motor and getting a good deal on another Subaru with a bad motor to put it in!

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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134953-help-ej22-sohc-dual-port-exhaust-egr-tapping/

 

DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP!!!

 

read the entire thread and any linked threads as well.

more info is better.

 

''search'' is your friend.
 

 

I used this THREAD on
legacyGT and tapped the same hole as shown - but this is for a EJ25D
head. I'm positive I used the same port on my EJ22 head, but apparently
there are some internal differences??
ejh65s.jpg

 

 

 

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Does anyone have more info on tapping the 20mm hole in the head for the egr pipe

there's a work around for simply not installing EGR as well.  that's the simpler route.

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