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Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!


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I wouldn't try to weld up the extra holes. There's too much of a chance you're going to warp the rim doing that. To get it hot enough for decent penetration, it's going to warp.

 

I was thinking some steel rod to use as a plug. Have a bevelled edge on the plug and use the bevel holes on the wheel. Use enough to get a tack or two going and you won't need to sit there and try and fill the hole with weld?

 

Anyone think that would work?

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I wouldn't try to fill the holes with welding wire or rod anyway, I'd weld a patch in. But why? If you weld enough to get good penetration you're going to warp the rim. If you just tack it in place really quick, it's merely cosmetic. I guess if that floats your boat, go for it. Or just get hubcaps.

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I have found 2 sets of 4. Of these wheels in co. They are asking 100-130. And the wheels are Chevy wheels as well as trailer wheels. (the width might be slightly different tho)

 

Chevy wheels have a very incorrect offset and will stick out of the wheel well, and will result in cutting the fenders drastically, fyi.

 

As for filling holes, good thought on possible warpage of the rim.

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If you are not set on any particular 4-lug wheel, go for the 6-lug swap.

 

I would have, if I had not already spent $1200 on two sets of new tires (winter and summer) on 4-lug 13" wheels. :horse:

 

6 lug swap? I want to say I remember this, but not sure. Have a link?

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When i say 6-lug swap, I mean hubs drilled for 6-lug.

 

:drunk:

 

Gaatcha!

 

Is there even enough surface to do this on the front wheel spindles? I know drums have more then enough room. Picture of a redrilled wheel spindle would be tits!

 

Here is a thread from Canada, these look like a mess omg. I don't think these hosers know what der doing there eh.

http://montrealracing.com/forums/showthread.php?697246-Redrilling-wheels

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I opted for the 14x6 Mazda truck wheels which have a smaller center hole(hub centric). Mounted the hubs on outer axle stubs & turned down the 4 nubs to fit on my bench lathe. Drilled starter pilots with a 9/16" bit from the wheel lug holes then drilled 3/8" pilots thru. Machined flats from the other side with a 7/8" counterbore & 3/8" pilot(enco.com). Then increased the hole to 35/64" in steps. Built up 3 short beads of weld around the hole with a MIG then cleaned up with angle grinder & die grinder. The hubs are steel & weld easily(Just not too much heat to warp them.) Used 610-322 Dorman wheelstuds(rockauto). Pressed studs almost to bottom of knurl & let torqued lugnuts square the studs to the hub.

 

87 GL wagon with 4" SJR lift, 27x8.5x14 Grabbers on Mazda PU whls.

Edited by czny
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I thought the Chevy 2wd wheels had too small of a center hole ...

 

MOST chevy wheels you find from 2wd's will be 5 lug, not the appropriate 6 anyhow. Only a small amount of the newer, smaller 2wds use the right 6x5.5 you need for the swap. Other 6x5.5 rigs are Nissan, Mitsubishi, Dodge Mighty Max/D50, 4wd Chevy's (careful with this one) early steels often don't have enough backspace/too much offset, and later alloys dont have large enough center holes, recent model 4x4 Fords...i'm sure i'm forgetting some.

 

I found some Chevy Colorado 2WD wheels. 15 x 6 and offset to inside. They fit right up to the larger truck six hole hubs. I am still trying to talk the sales manager out of them for a decent price since I am not sure if they will work. I will keep you posted.

 

What size is the center hole on the back of these wheels? Reconsidering the six lug option for my car now that i have access to a lathe.

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MOST chevy wheels you find from 2wd's will be 5 lug, not the appropriate 6 anyhow. Only a small amount of the newer, smaller 2wds use the right 6x5.5 you need for the swap. Other 6x5.5 rigs are Nissan, Mitsubishi, Dodge Mighty Max/D50, 4wd Chevy's (careful with this one) early steels often don't have enough backspace/too much offset, and later alloys dont have large enough center holes, recent model 4x4 Fords...i'm sure i'm forgetting some.

 

Say you're in a junk yard or whatever looking for a set of wheels. What's the proper way to measure backspacing?

Is it the distance from the inside of the mounting flange to the inner lip of the wheel?

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