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Trading up to a newer Subaru, but which one???


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My 94 Legacy wagon is on its last legs. Valves, clutch, exhaust all going. So its time to get a newer one.

 

A very experienced local subaru shop has several for sale. These cars all have New Headgaskets, New Thermostat, New Timing Belt, New Tensioner, New Bearings, New Heater & Radiator Hoses, New Spark Plugs. Interior and exterior condition is very good to excellent. So if you had to make the choice, which would you pick?

 

2000 Legacy Wagon 103K $7190

2001 Legacy Wagon 142K $7180

1997 Outback Wagon 109K $6695

1998 Outback Wagon 141K $5950

2000 Outback Wagon 151K $6190

 

All seem to be in line with KBB dealer prices although the 2001 is about a grand high. I could throw a dart at the list but I like the idea of low miles, so the 2000 with only 103K is seeming to be the choice so far.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

Keith

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1997 Outback Wagon 109K $6695

 

yeah, if they've done all the upper and front end work on this one that might be the best one, but man, those seem like Colorado prices-which sucks. I know bank payments suck but something around 7-10 years old might be worth it.

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I'm kind of new to the site and not a mechanic, but I have a 92 legy wagon, 98 OBW aand a 2000 OBW and my understanding is the earlier ej25(99 and earlier) are more likely to have servere damage from head gaskets leaking internally when they blow compared to 00-04 having an external leak problem which isn't as dangerous.

 

I would go for the 00 or 01. btw, the prices seem comparable with Central Oregon too.

 

-Todd

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Out of those, I would go for a 97/98. 2000 and up came with the EJ25 engine which is more prone to headgasket failure. Plus parts are far more readily available than the newer generation.

 

The 97/98 Outback also had a EJ25, DOHC. The EJ25 SOHC in the 2000s would be what I'd go with.

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I'm kind of new to the site and not a mechanic, but I have a 92 legy wagon, 98 OBW aand a 2000 OBW and my understanding is the earlier ej25(99 and earlier) are more likely to have servere damage from head gaskets leaking internally when they blow compared to 00-04 having an external leak problem which isn't as dangerous.

 

I would go for the 00 or 01. btw, the prices seem comparable with Central Oregon too.

 

-Todd

 

Ditto. I didn't see your post when I posted.

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The first suggestion about the 98 is incorrect, very few folks that do significant amounts of Subaru work would suggest that. Most would say to *avoid* the 97 and 98.

 

The main reason is that the engine in that car randomly overheats when the headgasket fails so it's very common for those to have been overheated and even signfificantly overheated at some point in there life. The overheating causes thrown rods or locking up, turning the lower end into scrap metal - i've bought quite a few like that - as have anyone else that buys lots of Subaru's. Mileage is meaningless - they were locking up at 30,000 miles, 50,000 miles and 100,000 miles, etc i've bought them with those mileages. And there's no way to verify the condition of the lower end bearings or block, it's impossible, so it's an inherent risk that can not be avoided.

 

The later model EJ25's never overheat unless they run low on coolant, so there are signs of headgasket failure long before they overheat, so they are much less likely to overheat. I've seen them with lower end failures too, but it's less of an issue than the earlier styles as mentioned above.

 

If you're still leaning towards the 97/98, ask if the valves were properly adjusted - they are unbelievably complex to do, it's unlikely you'll ever have them done because of it, so make sure it's done now. The 2000+ ones are easy - basic tools and a matter of minutes.

 

That being said - I would get the 2000 for $6,100 with 150,000 miles. Honestly that extra 50,000 miles is probably meaningless truth be told. If they've all had this extensive maintenance done then they all have about the same chance of making another 100,000 miles until the next timing belt change.

 

Those prices are high, but you're getting a great deal with new headgaskets and timing belts, tensioner, pulleys. That's fabulous and what I do to mine as well. If you bought a used one of these you'd want all of that stuff done anyway.

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Out of those, I would go for a 97/98. 2000 and up came with the EJ25 engine which is more prone to headgasket failure. Plus parts are far more readily available than the newer generation.

 

Umm why do you say this? The EJ25D ('97-'99 to be more specific) blow head gaskets INTERNALLY where as the '00 and up fail externally. If you use something better then the OEM single layer coated head gaskets, they last much longer. I use Six Star MLS head gaskets at work and only time I see them fail is due to improper installation or the customer over heats the car due to a bad hose or radiator.

 

I myself, do close to 3 head gasket jobs a week, upwards of 15 in my shop for one week depending. I would rather go with the '00 and up 2.5 over the earlier EJ25D personally.

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I ended up with the 2001 Legacy. Turns out it is a GT with more options than the 2000 (my kids love the dual sunroofs). In addition to all the other work he did, I talked him into doing a tranny flush on the car and he gave me the y-pipe I need for my 1994 Legacy, so maybe I can sell it for a grand or so. Any takers??:o

 

I haggled as much as I could and got the car for $6895. Let's hope I can get a 100k more out of it.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Keith

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