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natext6

lazy lifter?

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I've been having an issue recently. My engine ticks.....sometimes quite angrily, sometimes just a bit, sometimes not at all. I've made sure that I have enough oil in it numerous times, but everytime, its full. The ticking correlates to my RPMs, in that as my rpms rise, so does the ticking accelerate accordingly.

 

Someone I know suggested that it may be a lazy lifter... I don't really know what that is or means.

 

Any ideas? Is this the tick of death I've heard so much about D=

 

Car is a 1989 5spd xt6

Edited by natext6

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This happened to our Acura legend. We talked to numerous people and they said try a quart of ATF in with the oil. It has worked for us. We also change the oil (with ATF) every 1000 miles.

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What's atf? Also, I'm not hugely concerned, it's mostly just annoying. I don't plan on keeping the current engine in the car much longer anyway :horse:

 

But ya, ATF?

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Automatic transmission fluid. Yes it sounds weird to mix oil and transmission fluid. There's another thread where someone else said the same thing. It does work even tho your not keeping the engine it should last till you are ready for your new one

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Read up on the other post about tick of death and fix. Mine has been ticking for over 30k soI don't think the death part is very accurate. Still gets uppper twenties in mpg and will roll along at 85 mph all day long. It is annoying nonetheless.

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progress as follows for ticking HLA's:

 

1. change oil

2. reseal the oil pump

3. replace the oil pump

4. have HLA's rebuilt (mizpah like $3 each) and reseal the cam carrier with a new metal reinforced oring from Subaru (or thepartsbin.com)

 

I have personally never had to go to step 4. Steps 2 and 3 have worked numerous times for me.

 

I sometimes simply skip step 3 so as not to do the work twice (steps 3 then 4).

 

ATF can help as well, I've done that before but don't any more.

Change the oil often.

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Thanks Gary! Excellent list! I'm going with the reseal first I think!

 

I've had the oil changed a few times while the has been happening. I've had everything in it. :horse: currently I'm running 10w30. I don't know if that's useful info or not =P

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i don't think oil type or viscosity makes any difference. i've seen it "change" with lower and heavier weight oil - probably incidental. "correlation does not mean causation"....lifter tick is so volatile that if it goes away after putting something in it - doesn't really mean it helped or made it worse. probably just the come-and-go factor of the ticking more often than not.

 

a reseal is definitely worth it - it's actually not hard at all, the timing covers are sometimes the biggest pain. after that it's really not hard and can be rather quick.

 

might want to have cam and crank seals on hand and check to see if yours are wet and possibly replace the timing belts while they're off. they can be had cheap from someone on the board or ebay or rockauto, etc.

 

i have had Fel-Pro crank seals not seat properly on EA/ER engines so i would probably stick with Subaru for the engine seals.

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Using ATF, seafoam, Gunk engine cleaner...ect works for me. I would not recommend using any of these products as an additive for daily driving. They are cleaning agents and should be drained out after briefly running in the engine to flush out sludge.

 

If you want an additive to run on a regular basis try Risoline.

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Timing belts >_

 

Its not all perfect but I like how you think. :)

3 o2 sensors, large wiring harness to add to the car, fuel pump control unit if you dont use a 2001 engine, there is still a chain in there and while it lasts a long time its not necessarily a forever item, huge alum chain cover likes to leak, scanner required to pull codes.....

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oil pump shaft seal same problem as ea82 is caused by oil geting airated change the oil pump shaft seal orinrg and micky mouse oring and should be fixed

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Its not all perfect but I like how you think. :)

3 o2 sensors, large wiring harness to add to the car, fuel pump control unit if you dont use a 2001 engine, there is still a chain in there and while it lasts a long time its not necessarily a forever item, huge alum chain cover likes to leak, scanner required to pull codes.....

 

The hydraulic chain tensioners can bleed pressure off and cause chain noise. Head gaskets can fail internally when over heated a bit. Choice of transmission can be limited because the EZ30 uses a pulse signal from the torque converter.

 

Unless you can be confident in working othe 3.0 with its chains and 100 timing case bolt, it can get intimidating.

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I wonder if I could find a mechanics training course online for it. You can bittorrent anything these days.

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The books or a video? The Subaru training is essentially a lab environment and technicians reference booklets.

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The books or a video? The Subaru training is essentially a lab environment and technicians reference booklets.

 

Either! Both! Anything:lol: I havent found much that has interested me like this learning process has!

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