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2" lift + 4Runner GasAjusts + Moog Springs =


xbeerd
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I thought i would put this in a thread since i could never find what i was looking for when searching for the stuff on this topic.)

 

*NOTE: my car has 2" lift already installed*

 

Parts list:

Shock: KYB Gas-A-Just KB9025 (part is found under 'Yota 4runner on Rockauto)

 

Spring: Moog CC-248 (used in older Honda Accords, Google search the part lists for 86-89)

Coil Spring Dimensions from Moog

End 1 Type: Square

End 2 Type: Tangential

Inside Diameter: 2.5"

Bar Diameter .5"

Install Height: 9"

Load: 1100

Spring Rate: 279

Free Height: 12.88"

 

SPRING:

The spring in its full size extends to the very end of the shock.

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNTMwLTAwMzIwLmpwZw.jpg

 

tried to compress it to fit the shock by using my HF spring compressors in a non approved way (one hook of the 2 on the bottom, its all i could get in there. ) so that wasnt goin to work, a little bit of trial and error and i ended up with this..

 

i cut 1 coil off of the bottom of the spring (tangenital end)

i cut 1.25 coils off of the top of the spring (square end)

 

this made the coil to the height that i could atleast assemble the stuff.

 

UPPER COIL SEAT:

drill it out to 12mm (or just so the shock fits thru it. i just used a 1/2" bit i had layin around, 12.5mm.

 

BUMPSTOP: since its attached to the dust boot, and i had new dust boots that came with my new shock, i cut off the bumpstop 3 notches from the end, and put it on the shock, not sure if that was necessary but i did, i made it shorter just because of the travel of the shock being shorter

 

UPPER SHOCK MOUNT: to assemble, i cut the rubber bushing from the top of the mount in half, or so it just protrudes from the top of the shock mount enough that the nut will be able to be threaded on. for the bottom bushing, i used the one that came with the shock. also i drilled out a flat washer to go under the nut.

 

so in order from top to bottom: nut, washer, half-Ea82 upper bushing, shock mount, lower bushing from new hardware, new hardware washer, upper coil seat, bumpstop.

 

i was able to put it all together with out spring compressors, i did have to push down by hand on the mount to get the top nut to thread on.

 

finished assembly...

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNjAyLTAwMzI4LmpwZw.jpg

 

GET ON THE CAR

once the car is up on stands, drop the mustachebar and rear end of the rear dif. your axles will thank you. i didnt do this on until after the first side was done. the axles were REALLY stretched out.

 

you will need to modify the welded nut that the old shock lower bolt threaded into, i used a 9/16" drill bit to drill out the hole that bolt goes thru on the back of the control arm. as for that welded nut. you can try to remove it, i attempted, but couldnt get in there and didnt want to waste alot of time tryin to mcgyver it out of there, so i just drilled right throught it and used a longer bolt, i believe it was a 80mm bolt i used.

 

also.. the bumpstop stop on the control arm will get in the way due to the lift and not lowerin the suspension tube if you have not done so. since my bumpstops rusted out years ago...

 

little bit of grinder lovin..

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNjAyLTAwMzI5LmpwZw.jpg

 

bolt the top bolts in first, then you can use a little 'oomph' and get the lower to line up, i had to put a pipe in there to get some leverage so i could get the bolt lined up, the pipe went above the control arm and under the suspension tube, my pipe was long enough i could just straddle and sit on it and adjust the downward force that way. it worked well.

 

with a 2" lift iwth this setup, it would be good to drop the dif a little as you can see here is my axle angle currently (tomorrows project: dif drop plate)

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNjAyLTAwMzM2LmpwZw.jpg

 

here is what it looks like after driving about a half mile or so to the photospot.

R3JlZW5maWVsZC0yMDEyMDYwMi0wMDMzNy5qcGc.jpg

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNjAyLTAwMzM1LmpwZw.jpg

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNjAyLTAwMzM0LmpwZw.jpg

R3JlZW5kYWxlLTIwMTIwNjAyLTAwMzMyLmpwZw.jpg

 

i am curious though.. based on the wheel gap... what lift height does this setup resemble? 4"?

 

due to the stiffness of the springs, i wouldnt assume they will settle TOO much from here.

Edited by xbeerd
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probably a variable rate spring, seems that most of the springs that are available as replacements are variable rate, atleast that i've looked at. if cutting i usually try to remove from the top and bottom of the spring, seems to have worked for me so far, with my fronts and rears.

 

although with these springs, my car rides like a truck, its pretty fun ride now. :) still wanna see if i can raise the front another inch or so tho to make it look a little more even.

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  • 2 weeks later...

They aren't that different. But I think the problem to run into is that there is no camber adjustment on the ea. So hdpe spacers would give me more positive camber.. That's not good! The spacer would have to be offset to compensate. I thought about making some 1"-2" lift blocks as in the diy lifts seen on here by one eye etc. And then bolting that to the lift block, then welding it. But that setup kinda scares me. Lol!

 

I wish I could switch to ej knuckles for the camber adjustment, but put the ea hubs in them to keep my bolt pattern. Since new wheels and tires isn't going to happen. As far as I know you can't Frankenstein that combo with the knuckle.

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Not sure on the rears, but I'm told the 2WD Impreza axles had the same spline count as the EA transmission. Strut mounts are probably different though.

 

yeah, the axles arent the issue, they could be figured out. but what i wanted to accomplish was keep my 4x140 bolt pattern, and have a macphearson strut and impreza knuckle to have camber adjustment option. i dont really want to have to get new wheels and tires if ended up with 5lug impreza knuckles etc.

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Thanks!

 

i seen the write up, i just thought i would put in document with a bit more info down about the install and using the 4runner stuff AND these springs with part numbers since there werent spring part numbers in your write up. and i just wanted to have exactly what i did and results shown for other people. plus its another option for approximately a 4" lift in the rear! :)

 

 

Nice Subie! icon14.gif

 

Did you seen This Writeup?

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546

 

 

Kind Regards.

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now to make 3 or 4" on the front.. i wish there were some struts that were just 2" taller than the stock ea82 ones!

 

or someone that had free 3-4" strut blocks atleast! :)

 

I know! It would make my life Easyer too! I ended up drawing up the top and bottem plates to get cnc'd for my front 4" lift... But havnt had the time to get the 4" diam pipe nor to go down to the show to get some cncing done... Free would be nice for sure! :headbang:

-Prwa AAE

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Was lookin at the front springs available for that model of Accord, they list CC246 for the manual trans car, and CC248 for the auto.

 

Per Moog's specs, the CC246 is 11.00 install height, and 484 load, whereas CC248 is 9.00 install height and 1100 load. So if you're headed out to the junkyard like I'm about to, try and find the springs off an automatic!

 

Edit:

On second thought, my friend eBay says I can get a new pair of these CC248 Moog springs for $60 shipped.

 

Edit 2:

The auction was through JCWhitney. I checked their main site, and right now the same pair of springs is $49 with free shipping! Can't beat $25 springs!

 

Edit 3:

Cheapest I can find the KYB KG9025 shocks is on Amazon for $61 each with free shipping. However, JCWhitney is the second cheapest at $65 each with free shipping. So a pair of new rear shocks and struts is only $180.

Edited by Cyfun
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yeah, thats the problem i ran into, i could either A.. go to the junkyard, pull a set of struts off an old accord, pull the springs, and get charged $30/ea side because they usually dont split up the springs/struts etc off the cars.. or B. just get new springs for the same cost and not have left over honda parts floating around.

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i dont really get the drastic difference in the load rating? 484 vs 1100?

 

No kidding, especially when the spring rate on both are 279. But at the very least, the smaller install height is probably most important if they're a biatch to get on the strut.

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