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Subruises' (wife's) 88 GL

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Welp (sniffle), sold off my (wifes) beloved 86 gl loaded w options that ive only seen on that car. and bought something else to play with. pics will come soon. its got a resealed ea82 with some serious spunk for one of these. it came with a a spare motor to rebuild, punched cats, debaffled muffler. its got a CEL, and was overcharging when I bought it. i took it out, tried to throw in my maxima alt, i had the wrong one(95A). put orig back in and no overcharge. I found rust in the crappy plastic rad, scored an ALL METAL DUAL CORE from a touring loyale turbo wagon this weekend. it needs a bunch, but its a good start. also has a sweet battering ram bumper. Perhaps Tom (TheLoyale) wouldnt mind throwing the pic up here, Nudge). my phone is incapable of such things, or my brain is. more to come...............

 

RV

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thanx homie, its got potential. first though I need to deal with some issues that come with a 260k soob that was not as cared for as well as one would hope. no rust so thats good. so: I had a code 34 . i put in the best egr/vacuum diaphragm I had, cleaned intake out and yet cel is still there. i also got 5 shorts but my chilton has no 'code 5'. is could this be a result of the modified exhaust? whats up folks, ive never had spooky codes on my ea82s...............

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You have to clear the codes after doing repairs. Unhooking the battery for an hour or so should do that.

There is a way of doing it with the diagnostic plugs, but you'd have to read up on that in the Repair Section. I don't know it enough to write it here.

 

5 quick flashes are for model designation, and are not a trouble code.

 

Mine is definetly giving me a code 55. 5 short-5 long, pause, repeat.....

 

 

Nice looking Wagon...

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thanx for the help there Tom. ok, ive unhooked the battery after confirming i have a stored code34 again (white connectors, not green D check ones). ill check it in an hour or so, and hopefully post some bananas later. also, new alternator (oreillys) has some weird dealy on the back that hooks to the batt line........que?

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ok, so it was gone. it came back 5 minutes later. wth is goin on? do the solenoids go bad? i have extras, maybe ill try that tonight. btw its still in the stored codes and not active (d check). am i not leaving the battery unhooked long enough? no bananas yet...................

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ok, so it was gone. it came back 5 minutes later. wth is goin on? do the solenoids go bad? i have extras, maybe ill try that tonight. btw its still in the stored codes and not active (d check). am i not leaving the battery unhooked long enough? no bananas yet...................

 

Yes they go bad. I had to replace mine. I bought a new one from Subaru $50. Code has never come back.

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If you don't have testing by you, that code will not hurt how the car runs. I had that code on my Loyale for like 2yrs, until I couldn't stand looking at the light anymore. :)

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ya, we have testing, due in august. and i hate cels. ima swap crap around tonight and see what happens. good news: got tires on lockdown, just need mounted on the shadow mags

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i will as soon as i stop ramming stuff with it lol. its addicting when youve got a lego shell in the driveway. consequently, i also need to make it strait again. beautification will follow functionality.

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its the main reason i bought this thing. smashination............

 

 

ive got a couple more comin thru the pipes as i type this, so there will be a couple more runnin around soon.

 

I didnt get anything done last night due to exhaustion catching up w me. ive been burning the candle in a microwave since friday after work. hopefully ill get something done tonight. ive got a rather sweet surprise coming for this car, or maybe not we'll see

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code 34 lives on... Progress: new cv=less wobbles. bought missing lugnut for shadowmags. made stereo work w/o lights on. Regression: now my parking lights are on whenever the key is. what gives???? Background: the stereo only came on when the running lights or headlights were on. radio fuse was blown. now running ligts stay on when key is at both acc and run positions. thanks for reading and helping folks...

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I recall MilesFox having simular issues in one of his after installing a stereo. Was getting a backfeed some how.

Not sure on what wires he tied into, or how he fixed it. Been awhile.

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today marks seven days with the new ride. to recap, i have replaced the following: 2 row rad, alternator, front calipers/pads (old ones seized), brake flush (its clear, not green now), egr valve/vacuum solenoid, engine wiring harness (to rule out the code 34 issue). i cannot, for the life of me seem to rid myself of this egr code. there was lots of carbon in the intake from egr. should i pull it off and give it the ole pipe cleaner or something??

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put some rubber and magnesium on there today, safe to drive fast now (fast? lol). flushed the rusty, oily coolant out some more. WHAT THE BLOODY HEY IS UP W THIS CODE 34??? and why do my lights run w key?? its not the virgin switch btw. this things got hope yet......

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im probably making the cel return just by typing this but i think the code 34 is gone now.:clap: last night i decided to swap the solenoid from Crapwagon, broke it in the process. i installed the solenoid from the 88 to CW and no code. i found one more extra floating around. popped it in the 88 and, bang pow no code! i drove it around a bit, waiting, and no return:clap: same for this am. this pleases me. in a week and a half this car has gone from probable immenent catastrophe (my favorite cancer song btw) to good runner. yay RV

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today i installed new plugs. then i took TheLoyales' advice and straightened, then painted the battering ram. i may get some flat black and do it over, its on the verge of out-glossing the rest of the car.

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WHAT THE BLOODY HEY IS UP W THIS CODE 34??

 

Hate that damn code...

 

Glad you got yours gone. Hope it stays that way. Gotta take care of that on the Loyale =\

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