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7Wayne7

2000 Outback Fuel pump assembly metal cap is broken

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I think adding a bit of metal on the outside of the cap would reinforce it enough to keep it from cracking again, I've done crazier and had it work. Having a micro-torch helps.

 

If that other filter-plus-cap cap works for 35 bucks (or if the 04+ cap is avail from the dealer) that's a good bit easier.

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The new fuel filter cap arrived today. Installed it about an hour ago. See below for pictures of the old one as it looked upon removal of the fuel pump assembly, a side view showing the crack and the o-ring poking out a bit, the new/enlarged cap, a comparison between new and old (the interface is IDENTICAL), and a picture of the new cap installed.

 

**Twisting on the new one was a chore! It really took some effort. You have to play around with lining up the tabs with the gaps in the right places and twist it on slowly, but surely, while putting some pretty good downward pressure on the cap. I double checked and tried to put the old one back on and it was just as hard, so I don't think this is due to different tolerances...

 

The picture doesn't show it, but for good measure, I put a hose clamp on the outside of the tabs/clamp interface for good measure. I tightened it, but not overly so (didn't want to put undue stress on the tabs themselves, just enough to hopefully "encourage" the new o-ring not to expand enough to push out the retainer tabs of the new cap.

 

After the dust settled, I buttoned everything up, crossed my fingers, and turned the ignition key.

 

...fired right up.

 

BTW, I installed it _without_ the filter that came with the deeper cap since I already have a filter in my engine compartment (as all 2000 Outbacks do I believe). Also, I think another smaller gasket is needed between between the filter element and the fuel filter assembly, which I didn't have. Anyway, the only reason (I can think of) for these idiotic/lame/pathetic/stupidly inferior build quality metal caps on models where the filter is in the engine compartment is to cover the resevoir area that would otherwise be used for an in-tank fuel filter. Therefore I doubt there would be any difference with a larger cap with more volume. Once the resevoir fills with fuel, the pressure maintained should be the same...in theory...

 

So far it drives just fine. Will be using it for shorter trips over the next several weeks just in case. I'll pull the filter assembly in a month to see if there is any evidence of bending of the tabs. If not, I'm probably good to go at least for the remainder of life left in the current engine. The old cap failed at ~183,000 so it lasted quite awhile as is.

 

I am very glad not to have to procure an entire pump assembly just for this lousy cap!!!!

 

7778592258_583f261cf5_h_d.jpg

 

7778590032_d1e97c3c00_h_d.jpg

 

7778590596_38946d0313_b_d.jpg

 

comparison between old and new:

7778591668_b401503a4f_h_d.jpg

 

7778591206_7c5d5696d7_h_d.jpg

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This is a seriously good score for the DIYer. Great to hear and SEE that the new cap fits.

 

Did the new cap/ filter kit come with a new o-ring?

 

Did you lubricate the o-ring before putting the cap on? That can make a BIG difference in ease of installation. It can also lessen the chance of twisting/ cutting the o-ring.

 

Thanks for the update and great info! :)

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yeah - glad to see an option for this problem.

 

these threads should be combined and stickied - particularly now that a few H4s have been affected.

 

Wonder how many poor suckers paid a dealership $700 for a new pump, AFTER being towed in?

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i've installed used caps, swapped some caps and they are always that tight. very, very tight fit. feels wrong but that's how they are.

 

the depth of the cap is meaningless as you said, just a reservoir.

 

i will be ordering some caps and orings.

 

700$??? I priced one at the local stealership here for 379
he is implying how many people take this in to a dealer to have it repaired...which is going to include labor, tow, tax, labor, shop fees, diagnosis...$700 might be high side but i bet it's not too far off.

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Grossgary, would it possible to order caps and O-rings with you for our 2003 VDC Outback 3.0L H6? I wouldn't even know where to begin finding these LOL.

 

The better of the two local dealerships here quoted around $775-785 for the fuel pump assembly + labor. And the best part was that the service guy said whenever they encountered any issues like this, even when they can't replicate them in their garage or see the problem, they just automatically replace the full fuel pump assembly.

 

By the way, he said that this type of problem would not throw a Check Engine light.

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dunno about shipping, best initial price for a cap seems to be;

 

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/shop/-brand_OES_Genuine-part_Fuel_Filter-make_Subaru.html

 

 

NOTE - no o-ring in the above kit (as far as I can determine)

 

 

Amazon has the same item for about $51 total (shpg included); http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Filter-select-Subaru/dp/B001G7THRS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1344950139&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=oes+fuel+filter+subaru+internal

 

 

 

 

 

I'd be up for a cap and a coupla o-rings if we did a 'group buy' - might not be practical. Either way, I see no reason not to get a spare cap and o-ring if you own a vehicle with one of these style pumps.

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Thanks 1 Lucky Texan for the fuel filter and cap link - but where to get the o-rings, and which sizes to order?

 

I'd like to have these on hand before going to our independent garage so that if this is the fix, we're not jumping right to a brand new full fuel pump assembly at a cost of almost $400.

 

I do think it's a good idea to check error codes on the computer.

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1 Lucky Texan, will the 2004 Outback fuel filter and cap fit our 2003 VDC 3L H6?

 

Interesting to note that our 2003 VDC model came loaded with features that were standard on the 2004 models, and the car came with a 2004 manual.

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1 Lucky Texan, will the 2004 Outback fuel filter and cap fit our 2003 VDC 3L H6?

 

Interesting to note that our 2003 VDC model came loaded with features that were standard on the 2004 models, and the car came with a 2004 manual.

 

 

Full disclosure, I've only read about this problem, but, I have no reason to suspect our entire generation of USDM Outbacks wouldn't use the same fuel pump assembly. Airtex, Bosch etc. show one replacement part number.

 

Opposed forces seems to show a different part number for Jan. 03 - Feb '04 (I think those a re build dates, anyone ?)

 

 

Pump assembly-fuel 1 42021AE03A

'00, September — '01, May

'01, February — '02, May

'02, January — '03, June

42021AE07A

'03, January — '04, February

 

No idea what the difference is and could be unrelated to the cap.

 

so, there may be a good reason to proceed cautiously if you own a later model year car, but, even if you buy a cap and o-ring and discover you can't use it, I'd bet you could either return it or sell it to someone on this or the 'other' Forum.

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Not at all worried about buying the fuel filter or cap - as you said can always return or sell to another member who needs them - just with finding and buying the right size o-rings to go along with it.

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In an attempt to have a spare cap on hand when I inspect my wife's car's fuel pump cap and o-ring, I purchased a used pump from a car being parted out. Well, it has the beginnings of a compromised tab! I'm very disappointed and have ordered the 05 style large cap from parstgeek so I will have a known good cap on hand. (I'll just save the used pump for it's motor or in case I break something or need its gasket - sigh, kinda bummed about that.)

 

BUT, it tells me many of use could be driving around with 'ticking time bombs' . Of course, the vehicle this pump cam from may have gone to 300,000 miles and then to the junkyard befor the cap loosened enough for the o-ring to pop out - but I can't stand the thought that me or my wife could be crossing a busy intersection or on the highway out of town and the car just shuts off.

 

outside of large tab;

 

8186371907_fd7f5c6258_b.jpg

 

 

insdie view;

 

8187415148_a5c161150c_b.jpg

 

 

here's what I just ordered;

 

W0133-1617990

Genuine

2004 Subaru Legacy Fuel Filter

Fuel Delivery

Fuel Filter

Processing 1 0 $38.10 $0.00 Subtotal: $38.10 Shipping: $7.95 Total: $46.05

 

I will probably go to NAPA and see if they have the metric -928 o-rings in viton

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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These caps are repairable; I've fixed 2 now by mig welding the tabs. It is a little tricky and the welds should be dressed (a dremel with a cutting or grinding wheel works well) so the tabs engage properly. A new viton o-ring matched up at NAPA and lubed with castor oil for easy assembly. First repair is now 2 years old, so it appears to be a good fix. Might be worth taking a cracked cap to a welding shop if you don't want to do it yourself. This is a crap design that Subaru should address by making available the small parts to fix.

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These caps are repairable; I've fixed 2 now by mig welding the tabs. It is a little tricky and the welds should be dressed (a dremel with a cutting or grinding wheel works well) so the tabs engage properly. A new viton o-ring matched up at NAPA and lubed with castor oil for easy assembly. First repair is now 2 years old, so it appears to be a good fix. Might be worth taking a cracked cap to a welding shop if you don't want to do it yourself. This is a crap design that Subaru should address by making available the small parts to fix.

i was a little concerned that the "crack" also caused some minor separation of the tab from the rest of the body. in other words it is not some thousandths of an inch further away than it should be due to the pressure that caused the problem to begin with so to speak.

 

it seems unlikely but i was never about to try it either. i think i still have my old cracked one.

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I do regular maintenance on the cars in April and Oct. so, one thing I did to day, was combine changing the fuel filter on the wife's 03 H6 OBW with installing a new , large-type cap and replacing the o-ring on the fuel pump.

here is another link to the youtube video with the best instructions; 2000 Subaru Outback Fuel Pump Assy - YouTube


a coupla notes on the above video;

I used a vacuum cleaner to police the area I was working to limit debris possibly getting in the tank.

Lower the windows/open the doors to reduce breathing fumes.

Be prepared for about 2-4 oz. of gasoline to come out of a coupla those hoses. If possible, thread a rag or 3-4 layers of paper towels under the hoses/cable before removing the hoses.

I used some twine to bundle the hoses and cable then threaded the twine up thru the driver's headrest post and pulled them up so they would be out of the way. Sorta replaced the use of the video author's wife's hands. Made it a one-man operation.

His fuel pump gasket came off with the pump. I didn't notice this before and had a more difficult time getting the pump out thru the gasket. So, make sure to free the gasket if it is stuck and carefully bring it out with the pump. Go slowly and carefully as it may be possible to break or bend something if you just 'horse' it outta there.

My original cap appears in great shape, the tabs do not appear to be cracked or bent. The o-ring was quite swollen however. I replaced the o-ring (lubed with a little oil) with the metric 928 Viton unit sent to me (thanx Dave L) and installed the new cap. I was careful not to rotate it too far as I think the 'bump/dimple' on the large tab is meant to stop the cap at the correct point. Forcing it farther would cause the bump to ride on top of the plastic lug and put outward force on the large tab.


so, still not sure if all these units are quite the 'ticking time bombs' I originally thought. The o-ring was definitely swollen so......

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