Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Sign in to follow this  
mikaleda

help alternator

Recommended Posts

80 gl 1600 4wd.

my alternator just went out today and i have no money to get it fixed or replace it, but i have a rebuilt toyota alternator. i need help with the connections everything else is the same her is some pics.

 

DSCI0002.jpg

subaru

DSCI0003.jpg

toyota

DSCI0004.jpg

 

can anyone tell me the relation of F/N is to A/B? and what C is for?

P.S. F/N are stamped on the toyota alt. A/B and C are edited in. A/B are on the subie alt. and C is on the toyota alt.

Edited by mikaleda

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My guess is the Toy alternator is internally regulated and the Subaru is external. If so, a no-go. But just take the alternator to someplace like AutoZone and have it "tested". The person doing the test can tell you what all the terminals are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My guess is the Toy alternator is internally regulated and the Subaru is external. If so, a no-go. But just take the alternator to someplace like AutoZone and have it "tested". The person doing the test can tell you what all the terminals are.

 

if i could take it in i would and yes the subie alt. is externally regulated i'm not sure of the toyota but there should still be a way to hook it up even if it is internally regulated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
if i could take it in i would and yes the subie alt. is externally regulated i'm not sure of the toyota but there should still be a way to hook it up even if it is internally regulated

 

are you sure it's the alternator that went out and not the voltage regulator?

 

I'm no expert on the matter, and not sure I'd go to the trouble of doing a swap like that, I think I'd rather try to come up with a way to either fix or replace the one that broke with the same type alternator. but that's just me.

 

now, having said that, I did a google search for "swapping an externally regulated alternator for an internally regulated one" and got all sorts of hits and how to's, from what I read, it sounds easy.

 

you might want to do a google search, in a case like this, google is your friend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't normally do this, but kinda felt compelled for some reason, and after clearing it with my little woman, and getting her ok, here's the deal.

 

you show beyond question that it's either a bad alternator, or a bad regulator, and I will buy you either part and have it shipped direct to you so you can get your car back on the road.

 

you can PM me your address, and I'll have the part drop shipped to you. no charge and I expect nothing in return, only that you pass on the favor someday for someone else.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You didn't describe what was happening, so have to assume some things.

 

My dad had numerous cars with bad regulators. He would attempt to start the car and it would just give a rapid clicking and not turn over, like it was a dead battery. go out and rap on the voltage reg with a screwdriver handle and it would start for a week or 2. Rinse, repeat. Have done this to many cars to get them home.

 

If you don't have access to a tester then I would reinstall the Alt and try banging on the reg a bit (no hammers). See if there is a change which would indicate its likely the reg. try starting the car and then removing the negative battery terminal to see if the car runs. if unhooking the negative kills or stalls the car then its likely something in the alt/reg dept. if it runs fine with no negative hooked up then its possible the issue is the battery.

 

These are not 100% tests, but it can help narrow down the choices. do you not have a volt meter on the car? I would think you could even pull a volt meter out of a JY car and just use it for testing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You didn't describe what was happening, so have to assume some things.

 

My dad had numerous cars with bad regulators. He would attempt to start the car and it would just give a rapid clicking and not turn over, like it was a dead battery. go out and rap on the voltage reg with a screwdriver handle and it would start for a week or 2. Rinse, repeat. Have done this to many cars to get them home.

 

If you don't have access to a tester then I would reinstall the Alt and try banging on the reg a bit (no hammers). See if there is a change which would indicate its likely the reg. try starting the car and then removing the negative battery terminal to see if the car runs. if unhooking the negative kills or stalls the car then its likely something in the alt/reg dept. if it runs fine with no negative hooked up then its possible the issue is the battery.

 

These are not 100% tests, but it can help narrow down the choices. do you not have a volt meter on the car? I would think you could even pull a volt meter out of a JY car and just use it for testing.

i have been having a problem with a bad diode in this alternator for some time now i checked for ac volts at the battery and i found i was getting 40 volts ac current . then i started to have problems with over charging if i didn't run with a load on i would get sixteen volts according to the dash gauge. i've also been having problems with some of the dash lights staying on that shouldn't and i have heard theories that it would be caused by the bad diode or it could be caused by bad voltage regulator. most recently my volt meter in the dash is sitting steady on 12 volts at 2000 rpm plus and 10 volts at 800 rpms no load if i turn my fan on it doesn't matter what rpm i am running i get 8 volts. my gauge could be faulty though. if i can find my multi meter i will test to make sure it is right. i doubt it is my battery and i have had no problems starting the car actually i drove it over fifty miles home after it started and had no problems just low voltage and have known alt has been on the verge for a while. i just have been having bad luck lately so haven't been able to fix it. i know it has to do with the alt. or voltage regulator, but i am not sure witch yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't normally do this, but kinda felt compelled for some reason, and after clearing it with my little woman, and getting her ok, here's the deal.

 

you show beyond question that it's either a bad alternator, or a bad regulator, and I will buy you either part and have it shipped direct to you so you can get your car back on the road.

 

you can PM me your address, and I'll have the part drop shipped to you. no charge and I expect nothing in return, only that you pass on the favor someday for someone else.

Thank you for the offer but i would not feel right about taking it, mainly because i have not tried everything to get a alt. i still have a couple other possibility's left. i have a neighbor that has a few subie alts and voltage regulators, i am just having a hard time getting ahold of them. i also have a cat converter off of a chevy 350 and a self igniting chevy alt. that i might be able to get enough money off of to rebuild my alternator. and of course a rebuilt toyota alt. too :D being a shade tree mechanic has its perks i have a lot of parts lying around i was just hoping that this Toyota one would work.

Edited by mikaleda

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i once had a 67 chevy that my dad had put a newer alternator in, he managed to put in one with and internal voltage regulator and hooked up and ran it for several years with and internal voltage regulator and an external regulator. never had any ill effects. :lol: just came to mind. i know there are quite a few differences between a 67 chevy and a 80 subaru though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like u will be driving your legacy for a while or have a weekend project:popcorn: i think that toyota one will work i think the extra connector piece for the plug might be the ground but not sure u could take cover off the stock plug in and do some micky mouse wiring and to two of the connectors and leave the third one alone if its a ground because i dont think u need it but im not that good with wiring so, get some more practice when i install the third eye on my 85 brat:headbang:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i wish my legacy ran i wouldn't even bother with this car lol but my moms newest addition to the family might be my new ride for a little while 91 legacy 2.2 4eat 250,000 miles no muffler no back brakes and sturts are shot but she still runs :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i have been having a problem with a bad diode in this alternator for some time now i checked for ac volts at the battery and i found i was getting 40 volts ac current . then i started to have problems with over charging if i didn't run with a load on i would get sixteen volts according to the dash gauge. i've also been having problems with some of the dash lights staying on that shouldn't and i have heard theories that it would be caused by the bad diode or it could be caused by bad voltage regulator.

 

The trouble you are having is due to bad diodes inside the alternator. You should never see more than .1 volt of AC voltage. The AC ripple can cause things to happen to the gauges and warning lights that don't normally happen when a normal DC voltage is present. Replace the alternator.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well my legacy is running now so I am going to wait a little while before I get around to fixing this car. I went into the local auto parts store and had my alternator tested and it has an ac ripple but it is still charging so it looks like I need to replace my voltage regulator to. Will pOst results when I fix, thanks everyone for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AC ripple doesn't happen due to a problem with the voltage regulator, it is due to bad diodes inside the alternator. If the regulated 12 volt dc was ok then the regulator is doing its job and doesn't need to be replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The reson I quit driving it was because no matter how fast the engine was running it would only charge at twelve volts. I have a neighbor with a parts cat that i can get parts off of I will just grab an alternator since I know I need one of those and I will also grab a voltage regulator at the same time. I will replace the alt first and if that doesn't fix my problem with the low voltage I will change the voltage regulator

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bad voltage regulator I had the alternator checked then I unplugged the voltage regulator and all the dash light warnings went out. I ordered a new voltage regulator it will be in tomorrow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i have been having a problem with a bad diode in this alternator for some time now i checked for ac volts at the battery and i found i was getting 40 volts ac current . then i started to have problems with over charging if i didn't run with a load on i would get sixteen volts according to the dash gauge. i've also been having problems with some of the dash lights staying on that shouldn't and i have heard theories that it would be caused by the bad diode or it could be caused by bad voltage regulator. most recently my volt meter in the dash is sitting steady on 12 volts at 2000 rpm plus and 10 volts at 800 rpms no load if i turn my fan on it doesn't matter what rpm i am running i get 8 volts. my gauge could be faulty though. if i can find my multi meter i will test to make sure it is right. i doubt it is my battery and i have had no problems starting the car actually i drove it over fifty miles home after it started and had no problems just low voltage and have known alt has been on the verge for a while. i just have been having bad luck lately so haven't been able to fix it. i know it has to do with the alt. or voltage regulator, but i am not sure witch yet

 

I can say that my warning lights went out as soon as i replaced my bad alt. I too had a bad diode and the other two wernt far behind. I also cant trst my dash gauge, i picked up a voltmeter from Sunpro and it's far more accurate then the dash gauge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the voltage regulator made the voltage go up a little but it must be a bad alternator. I am going to have to talk to the parts house that tested my alternator this really is ticking me off. So I am going to have the alternator rebuilt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may find it is more cost effective to just install a rebuilt unit rather than have a local shop rebuild yours.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I take all my alternators to the only shop within at least fifty miles he has been doing alternators and starters for over twenty years they come back with a better warranty than napa and i have never had any problems. Actually it will probably cost the same as at napa it usually does

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm ok with eletrical but not enough to mess around in my alternator. I want it to be flawless especially since I got my center lamp working I will be usuing that a lot :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I am still having problems. New voltage regulator didn't fix it so I took the back off of my alternator yep sure enough bad diode. new alt in I replaced the old alternator with a delco remy cs 130 and I know that it has been tested at napa so I know that it was charging good. I'm not seeing any improvements still has ac ripple and won't get above eight volts on the dash or ten volts to the battery.

I wired the delco to the battery and the single wire to the auto choke (wich I don't use) I really doubt the alternator is the problem

What the heck is going on!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I am thinking it is because I am using a cheap meter because battery disconnected it is showing the same amount of ac voltage, testing my legacy shows the same results. What I don't get is why my dash lights are still on even when my alternator is disconnected

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×