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1997reduxe

Can somebody go over the engine burp again?

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Hi all.

Needed a radiator on my 95 Legacy today.

The guy who's working on it probably isn't too Sube savvy,

so I was wondering if anyone could go over the burping procedure

again for me?

 

Get the engine up, (is it necessary to use ramps or just an incline

good enough?), and fill the engine through the top hose or filler hole on

the radiator? and then run it till the bottom hose warms up and leave the

radiator cap off running till there are no more bubbles?

 

Thanks

Dan

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We use this at the shop I work at....

 

410gKy372TL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

 

You can usually get one at all the parts stores.

It will allow you to run the car until all the air is gone from the system.

If you cant get this, the method you described will work (incline will work), but it gets messy.

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I use the sane funnel pictured above and fill with the bleeder plug removed - install bleeder when coolant reaches the plug hole then finish topping off and install radiator cap. I have never required any further bleeding or running with funnel installed, etc.

 

GD

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We use this at the shop I work at....

You can usually get one at all the parts stores.

It will allow you to run the car until all the air is gone from the system.

If you cant get this, the method you described will work (incline will work), but it gets messy.

 

These are great and easy to use. Highly recommended. :headbang:

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Very easy.

 

Remove over flow clean it, reinstall it and fill to full line.

 

Remove cap.

Start car.

SLOWLY add coolant

Stop when full, wait for the t-sta to opne. (you will see a surge out the filler neck)

Resume slowly filling system.

Replace cap.

Drive car around block.

Allow car to cool off. Check coolant level

Repeat (once if needed) and that should do it. This is the proper method for all cars.

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Very easy.

 

Remove over flow clean it, reinstall it and fill to full line.

 

Remove cap.

Start car.

SLOWLY add coolant

Stop when full, wait for the t-sta to opne. (you will see a surge out the filler neck)

Resume slowly filling system.

Replace cap.

Drive car around block.

Allow car to cool off. Check coolant level

Repeat (once if needed) and that should do it. This is the proper method for all cars.

 

For every car I've ever worked on, your required to have coolant in the engine before running it.

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I imagine it would work. But, I have been turning wrenches for 30+yrs and have never heard of doing it that way before. Nipper, have you done it this way? Or did you hear someone else doing it this way?

 

Ken

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way cool tool havent ever seen that before dam canada you guys get all the good stuff.

 

I picked one up at my local NAPA

link

 

Manufacturer : Lisle Corporation

Manufacturer Part Number : 24610

 

or its on Amazon...

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353697460&sr=8-1&keywords=Lisle+24610

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Ah interesting tool, I hadn't seen one of those before. I just ordered one. I alawys go with the 'used' from Amazon Warehouse Deals if they have it, saves a few $ and the stuff is always great.

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May I quote myself from 8 years ago? Very well...the bold text really is the key to getting it done right:

 

Filling

 

Close up the bottom end of the cooling system, ie. thermostat and lower hose. If possible, perform the next phase on a slight incline, car pointing upward.

Get a funnel with about 10 inches of half-inch diameter hose on the end of it and slide this down the upper hose in toward the engine block. I do this because bending the upper rad hose causes it to collapse and that makes pouring coolant into it impossible. Pour your preferred coolant directly into the engine block. Pouring slowly, and pausing along the way will help keep air from being trapped inside the block. It should swallow at about two litres before it starts to rise and threaten to come out of the hose. At that point, attach the upper hose to the rad and continue to fill slowly through the rad cap hole. Once it seems full, start the engine, let it run for twenty seconds and shut it off again. This will dislodge the few air pockets that are unavoidable and the fluid level in the radiator should drop a little after the burp, top it off.

Start the engine again, and let it run until the radiator fan starts running, be patient! When then fan starts running, top off the level in the rad and install the radiator cap - and bleed screw if there is one. During the warm up, a small amount of coolant will spill over the rad filler neck, have a cloth to absorb it.

 

Take the car for a shortish run, just a few miles to get it fully warmed up, and park it on level ground. Check hoses for leaks of course, and let it cool. This will take a number of hours, overnight is good.

In the morning, note the level in the expansion tank, it will probably be a little lower than FULL. Fill to the FULL mark, and you're all set.

 

Obviously, you should check the level in the expansion tank for a few days afterward, but there shouldn't be any problems. Resist the temptation to open the rad cap, this will only interfere."

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Very easy.

 

Remove over flow clean it, reinstall it and fill to full line.

 

Remove cap.

Start car.

SLOWLY add coolant

Stop when full, wait for the t-sta to opne. (you will see a surge out the filler neck)

Resume slowly filling system.

Replace cap.

Drive car around block.

Allow car to cool off. Check coolant level

Repeat (once if needed) and that should do it. This is the proper method for all cars.

 

I have done it this way. This assumes there is coolant in the block. I have started a dry block to add coolant immediately. ej's are particularly tricky with the t stat at the bottom. Sometimes it is helpful pop off a heater hose to bleed or even fill by the heater hose to get coolant on the other side of the thermostat.

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