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EA82 motor shut-off


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Im not driving Ned currently (ODL suspension) so Ive been letting my sister drive him to/from work until she gets her own scoob.

 

She called me and told me...

 

"Ned just shot off while I was driving him. Then I tried to start him and when he fired, he went up to 500 rpms and when I hit the gas, he just died, so I pumped the gas a little bit and tried to start him again, the RPMs went up like usual and hes been running fine but I just shut him down and there was a pop and a burning smell, not like oil, but something else"

 

What do you think USMB? Fuel pump? Fuel Filters? Fuel system cleaner?

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was the pop from the tailpipe? if your car is flooding then you could get stalls and afterfires.

 

id start with fuel pressure and spark, check return lines and tank vents if you have them, then start on the carb.

 

does she know enough about cars that theres not a missfire or something that she didn't notice before this started?

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She unfortunately doesnt know much about cars.... Thats why I get the panicked phone calls... saying a noise.

 

Im not sure what the pop is, Ill have to ask her exactly where it came from... I wanna say a backfire, as I remember spiritedly driving and the person following me said when I shifted gears, the car backfired and shot flames out the exhaust :Flame:

 

So perhaps too much fuel getting into the carb?

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afterfires out the tailpipe are from unburnt fuel and air mixing in the exhaust. for me it was a rich mixture and leaky asv's letting air into the exhaust. you can also get the air from an exhaust leak.

 

theres generally some unburnt fuel in the exhaust but a messed up mixture can cause more unburnt fuel and air in the exhaust. normally you need an air source to really get a good one though.

 

Id still start with carb, though I would verify a strong spark first since its easy. starts fine, idles, but once you hit the gas it floods. also when turning it off theres extra fuel in the lines and you get a gasp of air from the tail or intake and pop. fits pretty well on the surface.

 

i would check for exhaust leaks or bad ASV's when you get a chance, since you described some fancy fire spewing exhaust.

 

if its an actual backfire out of the carb then maybe a timing jump? Id still start with fuel though.

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I always have to change out my fuel filters once they bring in the winter gas mixture. I guess the increased ethanol content degrades something that clogs the element. Cheap and easy maintenance item even if it's unrelated to the problem.

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Just thought I'd add some input and xp.

 

I know on my ej'd gl when the Maf went out it would start up fine and run for a little bit then die hard. And if I gave it any gas it would die hard. Try I'm pluging the Maf sensor it should run better. My other guess would be the fuel mixture. Carb, pump?

 

 

Hope this helps good luck

 

-Prwa

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So apparently the car only does this "loss of power and then shut-off" when the defroster is on.

 

I turned on the car, let it run, defroster on... no issues.

 

Thinking the issue might have been alternator related (due to a VBelt that was bad) I gave myself a full load:

-Brakes

-Back Up lights

-Brights

-Fans on 4

-Wipers

-Radio

-Blinkers

 

and although my volt gauge barely read above the 1/4 way, the car stayed at idle... So I dont think its electrical. and Im not seeing any lines with leaks... I smell fuel around the carb, but Im pretty sure it runs a little rich anyway.

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Could these be clutch related?

 

I guess he sorta chokes himself out... he will studder (which apparently feels exactly like if you lift the clutch up too fast) and then the rpms start dropping while youre driving, then when they hit about 500 the car just dies...

 

My clutch is toast, but I wont put a new one in until Im the only driver... could this mimick the symptoms...?

 

Still also thinking fuel delivery issue...

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doubt its clutch unless its something besides normal wear. mine slips cause its worn, but that raised the rpm. if your clutch is doing it something is loose or binding.

 

I still say fuel, or spark or something making the motor chug.

 

50% of my gauge is 12 volts, if your under (or even at) that then your not putting out near enough juice. even with a full load you should be at 12v and not below.

 

check your alternator (and ground cables for good measure)

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50% of my gauge is 12 volts, if your under (or even at) that then your not putting out near enough juice. even with a full load you should be at 12v and not below.

 

Haha, my alternator is shot. Occasionally, with the draw from the amp in the trunk, with the bass up it will drop to 8 volts.

 

Will be checking into the nissan alt swap soon, I foresee.

 

Good luck with NED!

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maybe she touched the key with her knee... or is there a large bundle o keys?

 

i have had people ask me why their car shuts off under hard braking or after hard right turns. i look in their car with the 5 or so keys and 50 random dongles and say" that's your problem".:-p

 

if the car hasn't done it to you it might just be something she's doing..

 

does she have anything she plugs into the cig lighter? something that might cause enough drain to stall out? im not sure what could do that but maybe a power inverter?

 

just food for thought.

 

:popcorn:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update: Gonna be heading to GDs as soon as I have a day off...

 

Got a call "Ned died in the middle of the road again, he wont even rev up and theres a hissing sound"

 

So we go check him out, turn the key, he starts, the moment I push the gas, he dies. Try again only barely pushing gas to raise RPMs slower, dies again... but my sister said "Thats the hissing" (AIR MOVING INTO THE AIR FILTER HAHAHA)

 

Opened hood, poked around, saw nothing out of ordinary, felt the linkages, everything felt good, choke wire (32/36 DGEV) wasnt loose... go back in, starts right up... slowly push the gas and the rpms climb... smashed the gas, RPMs shot up... just like normal... off he drove.... Thinking this is carb related... so I will take it to the master of Webers.

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