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According to here: http://www.edmunds.com/driving-tips/making-sense-of-your-vin.html

 

... and if I can count, the tenth digit is a V, making it a '97.

 

Oh, wait... you need month. Hold on.

 

Is there any reason you need it specifically from the VIN? It should be on the door jam sticker, if I remember correctly.

Edited by the_bard
I'm an idiot.

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The build date used to be on the VIN plate and a 1997 should have it. At some point, they stopped putting it on the plate.

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the build date used to be on a sticker on the B-column, like the tire pressure sticker.

then they moved it. at one time is was on the bottom of the drivers door. look there.

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if you look at valve cover one says twinn cam other is blank twinn cam stamped ones are hydrolic lifters and female coilpack in 97 whent to female coil and nohydrolic lifters in 98 they whent to male coil and nonhydrolic lifters is a pain have 4 diferent wire sets in 4 years and to add to it its listed as a legacy outback parts guys never mess that up

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if you look at valve cover one says twinn cam other is blank

twinn cam stamped ones are hydrolic lifters and female coilpack

in 97 whent to female coil and nohydrolic lifters

in 98 they whent to male coil and nonhydrolic lifters

is a pain have 4 diferent wire sets in 4 years

and to add to it its listed as a legacy outback

parts guys never mess that up

right?

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1997 Legacy Outback AT. Unfortunately my production chart ends 11/96. Starting number for this model in that month was 622039, and the previous few months increased 4000-6000/mo, so I would guess yours was built 01/97.

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VIN check says it was first registered in 03/21/1997.

But it didn't necessarily get bought as soon as it hit the lot. VIN reports don't give the month of manufacture, at least, not the way I get them...

Also, wow. That car went from the east coast of Maine, to BC. And not registered anywhere in between.

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thanks guys.....door panel says 12/96...and the plug wires I got were for the 05/97-12/97...sometimes the odds don't make a difference....lol...now to get those last 2.5 plugs outta their little holes and new ones in...what a PITA this basic maintenance issue is!!!

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got the plugs and wires replaced...now it only starts with help(read throttle body cleaner)...where to check fuel pressure????

 

Carefully check the intake snorkel hose gadgetry for any hoses that might have popped off. The ones where the IACV intake attaches to the intake tubing, often that hose will pop off and cause the exact issue you describe as much airflow is then allowed to bypass the MAF which confuses the ECU.

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hooked up my gauge and have 28#'s fuel pressure at idle...thinkin' its on its way out...pricing on a new pump???

 

 

thankx guys...appreciate the help!!!

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