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EA82 T.P.I. has no top end power

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Try unplugging the MAF and go for a drive, see if it makes a difference.

 

I also had a similar problem with mine, recently.. it got so bad it wouldn't rev past 5200 RPM. In the end, I didn't actually change anything except playing with the wire routing at the ECU, but I suspect it was/is a dying injector. It was noisy, sputtered at idle slightly and my fuel mileage isn't the best, one day it just "fixed" itself. I kept my foot down, it bucked a few times, then has been running like a top ever sense, but the idle problem is still there...

 

Anyway, I'd pull a plug or two and see how she's running..

 

I pulled all of the plugs and they all were running lean...

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Hey AKghandi, Are you saying that your fuel injector clicked like crazy and you replaced the mass air sensor and it no longer makes any noise? Also, why did you replace it to begin with? How was the motor running before you replaced the MAS and how did it run after?

 

No, the MAf itself was clicking, no idea why.

 

the car was running very poorly, it would start just fine, but it had low power, it would bog and stall, it also backfired occasionally, and near the end it would only run for a few seconds.

 

after I replaced just about every sensor on the motor I finally replaced the MAF and it runs smooth as butter now.:headbang:

 

 

heres the thread from when i was dealing with this issue.(the videos are not active anymore)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129931&page=4

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No, the MAf itself was clicking, no idea why.

 

the car was running very poorly, it would start just fine, but it had low power, it would bog and stall, it also backfired occasionally, and near the end it would only run for a few seconds.

 

after I replaced just about every sensor on the motor I finally replaced the MAF and it runs smooth as butter now.:headbang:

 

 

heres the thread from when i was dealing with this issue.(the videos are not active anymore)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129931&page=4

 

Man you have been thru h@ll ! It reminds me of me !:banghead: I read all of the post. Ya'll were talking about A computer self diognostic mode, or something like that. It obviously gives other codes by putting it in this mode. Is it in the wires around the brake booster? I noticed other connectors along with the green timing connectors. Am I making sense, do you know the ones I'm talking about? I there A self test mode the car can do , that I am not aware of?:confused:

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I'm going crazy:confused:Does anybody want to go with me? I got A code 34 EGR valve. I don't know if A EGR valve would make it have no power on top end. It wouldn't do 55 mph if I pushed it over A clift. I won't give up, i'll keep on trying stuff until its figured out. HELP ME!:banghead:

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That code is for the solenoid that operates the EGR valve, not the valve itself.

Most likely, the solenoid is dead. There is a chance of the wiring to it being faulty though.

 

The solenoid is in front of the manifold near the T-stat housing, has a White connector. Other solenoid located near it is for the vapor canister vent, Black connector.

 

You can connect a 33 Ohm resistor across the wires in the connectors. Doing so basically fools the ECU that the solenoid(s) are good. That is if the wiring to them is good.

 

New solenoid is exspensive. Both of them are identical except for the wiring connector. If you could find a good one at a salvage yard, you can rewire it to the correct connector.

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Also the EGR being faulty would not prevent your car from doing over 55. Have had a bad EGR and regularly do 85. It's not that.

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I would have already tryed another one if I had it. Out of all my parts, thats the one thing I don't have extra. They cost so much that I want to be sure thats the problem. Even then I'll have to wait till payday.

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If you can get me the part number off yours I'll see if any of the maf's I have at home match it, I have a few laying around.

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If you can get me the part number off yours I'll see if any of the maf's I have at home match it, I have a few laying around.

 

Great ! That will give me A reason to go out in this snow. I'll holler back in A little bit... :clap:

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Here we go: 22680 AA100

AFH38-01

 

A 8704

 

HITACHI 8

 

Thats excactly how it appears on the mass air sensor body. I hope you have one. Let me know what you find.

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You mean to say EA82's have power???:eek:

 

This one has a hard time doing 55 on flat ground. It should do that in 5th gear with 1/4 throttle.

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Try bumping the ignition timing as far as 28 degrees ( I also run premium fuel), it makes a BIG difference on the old EAs. It seems like 20 degrees just isn't enough with an older engine and today's gasoline blends.

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green plugs are near the ECU if you have fuel injection of eithe spfi or mpfi, and they are used in conjunction with diagnostics and timing. Search it or refer to manuals.

Question for crazy8's on the set to 28 Degrees. This is setting with green plugs connected yeah? So this is just a base timing for the computer and once set, plugs disconnected ECU takes over what is the timing seen at idle of 750 - 800 rpm - surely not the 20 or 28 you suggest ?

 

Would you also set a non fuelie to same 28? base timing?

 

I have found that the more advance you give to the cams (new belts and/or dizzy adjust)  the less willing EA82 will be to rev out, or less GO up there, but pay back more at lower revs with torque. And conversely more retarded the timing the more willingness up higher revs ....

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