96 legacy fuel pump problem?

[IdahoSubaruGuy]

I just picked up an awesome condition 96 legacy awd auto sedan, and it will run, but if you shut it off it will not restart. also, if you drive it when it runs, you get a couple miles down the road, and it stalls. let it sit, it starts right back up, no engine trouble codes. last owner said he thinks its the fuel pump? relay seems to work good, and i have started locating it but cannot find a green relay. and ideas guys?

[lmdew]

Sounds like a pump.  It's in the trunk on the passenger side.  Get a Subaru Pump!

Good used Subaru Pump is better than a new one from ABC Auto Parts store.

[ocei77]

check your fuel filter.

 

O.

[Cougar]

See if the engine will start up by spraying a small amount of starter fluid into the air intake. If it does start then that would seem to confirm a fuel delivery problem but it might not be the pump. I wouldn't replace it until you have proved the pump is bad.

 

It seems you have an ignition problem also. Perhaps the ignitor has a problem, which is fairly common. It could be something else as simple as a faulty power wire. Proper testing will lead you to the trouble. Check for power to the ignition as a first step when the trouble happens.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Is the CEL on? have the ECU scanned and post the codes.

 

if it seems temp related, could be the crank angle sensor is bad.

 

If you mean it won't re-start when cold after running for a few seconds, that is common to many soobs and some other cars. The car is likely flooded. the next time it won't restart, try holding the gas pedal on the floor while cranking. If it's flooded, that should clear the excess fuel.

Edited February 10, 2013 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Frank B]

Look under the dash, up under the steering wheel for the relay, I remember seeing a green one in that area on my 96. If it's really hot shen the car stalls, it's either a bas relay, or a bad pump drawing too much amperage and it's overheating the relay. Also, scan for fault codes even if the check engine light is not on, someone may have disabled the light in the past, unless it comes on when you turn on the ignition. It should come on with the rest of the lights on the dash (air bag light, oil light, etc) when you start the car ,then go out. It's to teat that all the warning lights work, and if they don't work then, your not going to know you have a problem later.

 

The fuel pump is easy to get to, there's an access hole in the the floor. Find it, check the connector to make sure it's in good shape. And also check to see what the voltage is at that connector. If the relay or wiring is the problem, the voltage may be low. You may have to use pins to pierce thru the wire insulation to get a proper reading, if you just disconnect the connector and put your test leads on it, that will interupt the circuit and may give you a false reading. With a pin stuck into each wire, the pump will be drawing amperage and give you a better idea of what's going on. Just tape it up after to seal the hole, or use silicone to seal it.

 

Also try to bang on the gas tank just about where the pump is  or remove the access cover and tap hard on the top of the tank right above the pump after it stalls, if you hear the pump come back on and/or the car starts after you bang it, then that fuel pump is bad. That works on other cars anyway to tell if the pump is bad.

Edited February 10, 2013 by Frank B

[Fairtax4me]

Could be a bad ECT sensor flooding the engine when warm.

Or bad Crank Position Sensor.