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I was taught the best oil to run in your car is CLEAN OIL !!!!!!! But other than that I use napa 20/50 for years.Napa oil is made by Valvilene sp? That was what I was told is the best for the EA81 engine (the 20/50wt, not Valvilean) so I carried it over.But then I was told that the 20/50 wasn't good for the Ea82 for a reason i don't remember...So just out of habit I'm stickin to  20/50.I did start buying Castrol at WM. I have been told that Castrol is one of the best oils made ,any thoughts?? ,Its $15 something for 5 qts.You can jam in the back door and beat the crowds..  I got tired of all the little blue bottels going to the landfill.so now its big white ones ....haha. but not as many...I have a few napa emptys I refill and carry in the rigs....So what do the "Teaming Millions" say?......But I still say the  best oil is Clean Oil !! ....OSF

Edited by old sub freak
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I was taught the best oil to run in your car is CLEAN OIL !!!!!!! ...

Yes.

...But then I was told that the 20/50 wasn't good for the Ea82 for a reason i don't remember...

The crankshaft bearing clearances on the EA82 are really tight.  Too viscous of an oil won't flow enough volume into the bearing spaces, leading to metal-on-metal contact.  I think that the knowledgeable consensus is to not run anything more viscous (hot) than 30W.

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Well I have been runing my EA82 for 58,000 miles on 20/50.after I resealed all the oil seals and re sealed the oil pump..and so far so good.but I did add some Pro-long way back then ...mabey that did it...or ???? the engine is tickin now that i resealed it for the 2nd time and w/20/50.Mabey time for a second bottle of Pro Long..Hey I don't know...Other than "Lets just Keepin it CLEAN " !!!!!!!

Edited by old sub freak
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I've been using SAE 20W~50 Motor Oil on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" EA82 since I can Remember 


 


... ;) ...


 


 


300,000 Miles so far and it Runs Very Strong!


(This is an Age old Photo, from when it was White:)


 


PuttinOilonIt.jpg


 


 


But My Caribbean Country has Warm to Hot Climates 75% of the Year.


 


The Very Few Times I went to 15W~40, the Hydraulic Lifters becomes Noisy.


 


This Thread could Help you with Much more Info on Oils:


 


~► Here


 


Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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JesZek,Thank you for the info...You can't argue with "consistent data".They really showed who had the best synthetic oil.Is there a test like that  for regular oil?? Would be very interesting...Well thanks again.Now what about oil filters????I know the orange ones are not as good as a regular napa filter.So just to be sure i use napa Gold. I feel better that way HaHa..If you have seen cut open filters they sometimes have on display you can see who has the better filter... So thanks again for the rap on oil..c ya todd

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I've been running Delo 400LE in my 88 GL (Sara) for at least a year now with no problems. I've never heard any top or bottom end noise on cold start's.  I know it's a heavy oil and formulated for a diesel motor, but it seem's to work great in my high mileage ea82. 

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I Used Delo 400 from Chevron in 15W~40, which is formulated for both Diesel AND Gasoline engines, in my Wife's "KiaStein" T8D engine.

 

About Oil Filters, See This Thread:

 

~► http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1855050

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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About the Subaru EA82 Oil Filters, I've been using many different Oil Filters' Brands, but the easiest (and Cheapest but with Good Quality) to Buy for me, is Purolator, those are everywhere at any aftermarket Auto Parts Store, also the Local Walmart sells them as cheap as Lps. 50.ºº (Lempiras, our Currency) = $ 2.50 US Dollars.

 

Despite that the Purolator Oil Filter needed for the EA82, is the L-24457:

 

24457.jpg

 

 

I Use the larger L-20064 more often:

 

20064.jpg

 

 

And some times I've used the Smaller L-10028:

 

10028.jpg

 

 

As you can see in those Screen Captions of the Official Purolator Website, those three oil filters has Identical Thread, Neck Base Fitting & Gaskets, and same Wide, the Main difference is the Longer or Shorter bottle Size, But also the Shortest one doesn't have an anti Drain Back Valve, which isn't really needed, since the Filter lies Horizontal. I've Never had a Problem with those.

 

But I had a Problem once with a "Luber Finer" filter, in 1994 year, because even using the one said by the Book, its threaded neck was soo Deep that it Barely reached the first two turns of the Oil Pump's base, and after fifteen minutes, My dad and I heard a huge "POP" Sound on the engine bay, my Dad who was Driving the "BumbleBeast" steer it to the roadside and shut it off inmediately; then we saw all the New oil flowing to the Ground, and the Oil Filter was 25 meters away, behind the car... 

 

So I Stay Away from Luber Finer and Fram, a.k.a: "Death in Orange Bottle" due to its cardboard cheap quality seals, as you might see in the Above Posted Link.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Incredible Jeszek. You must have tapped into Wamart's camera system and saw me trying to remember what my Purolator oil filter number was last night? I felt a little frustrated because I couldn't find a cross ref book anywhere at my Walmart so I just grabbed a Fram filter. I didn't feel like walking a quarter mile out to my subaru to look under it in the rain and darkness here in south Seattle. I'm going to exchange today for a Purolator. Thanks.

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Hey...I agree with the filters,I use to use the factory 1s till they got stupid expensive-$7.00 for one so i started using the puros. and since I change oil every 2 1/2-3 weeks it"s cost effective for me.....GEEZ it seems like all I do is drive and change oil for the last 8 months and feed the Dogs-they commute w/me...700mi,now it"s down to once a wk. finally!! I"m suprised the tach isn"t stuck at 45-5000 Grand as much as it"s been there for the last 8 months going over the passes :o

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Well i"ve been moving 2 houses from outside of Denver,co to Delta,co.,since June so all I do is load up the car an trailer and drive an unload so I"ve been going every 2-4 days back an forth 700mi. round trip soooo...hence oil changes so much plus like I said the tachs are seeing 5 grand ALL the time on the {5} PASSES 11,000ft. so goes the daily floggin-I don"t think any other car could stand the abuse besides a TOY PU. I have a 08 Ranger 4x pu 58k. that did the first 2 mths. and the tranny started acting funny so I went to the old faithful superoos to do work plus the Dogs have more room in the wgns-90 loy.&98 outback PLUS they are WAY better in the SNOW-Blizzacks ROCK!!!

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I work at an oil change center.

we use valvoline oil.

I am currently using Valvoline Max life 5w30 and a vo33 filter.

next change I am going to run 0-20 maxlife. I am interested to see if I get the propsed 4-5 percent better MPG.

and if I have any issues I can drain it and go back...

having a pit I can use at any time is nice.

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Been using Delo 400  15w-40  and Purolator filters for 20 years in my EA82 (since 1993). Over 220,000 miles and have had zero problems with the motor. Although, she leaks a little... I plan on a complete reseal this summer. I believe Rotella has the same military specs as Delo.

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My only argument is that you need to be aware of the oil spec for your region.

Running 20w50 is fine for Honduras, but may not be the best choice for North Dakota in December.

You have to buy your oil based on your operating temps.

10w30 is pretty much fine for anywhere in the continental US that varies in temps from 0-100*F

But if you consistently experience temperatures above 70, then switching to a thicker (higher number, aka: more viscous) oil wouldn't probably be a bad idea.

It you live in a place that rarely sees temps over 70, then using a thinner oil may help you on cold mornings from hearing that dreaded lifter tap.

Buying a synthetic oil that covers a wider temp range (5w40 vs 10w30) will help if you experience large temp swings on top of being more refined and thinner in general.

 

Twitch

 

PS: There are certain temp ranges suggested for every oil weight, but you need to take into consideration the original spec and wear range of the engine.

Putting 0w20 in a 300k engine will probably have a bad ending.

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So speaking of oil and such does anyone use ProLong oil treatment? I don't use it alot but after watching there infomercial when they treat the engine with it and then take off the oil pan and drive around southern California. ??? When I saw the film clip of the 4 banger  engine running without any oil pan I thought its either a blantent lie or this stuff really works???? so I gave it a shot.I surley don't use it everytime I change my oil,cause at $20 bucks a pop that would sure add up. So what do you all think?? Snake oil or something that can really help your engine??  Anyway It does make me feel better HaHa OSF  Oh and PS if you haven't taken a close look at my picture over there,Its a guy holding a dipstick.Under that is says"The dipstick tells the story"   How true that is !!! I got it from a vintage oil filter box from the 30's? Altho I don't think oil filters were even populal then..hmmm mabey the 1940's??? either way i sure like it

Edited by old sub freak
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I've always used 10W40 oil in my cars with ea82 engines. Even in the coldest winter times. Since it's ranging from -30 to +30 celsius degree in here from winter to summer I think it is the way to go. 10W40 is usually the choise for me in my subies anyways since it shoud be good to a wide range of temperatures and very easy to get and cheap and has always kept the lifter noises away. But a said before it's mostly up to the climate when talkin about which viscosity oil to use.

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