subi dude Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I recently moved to Colorado. And had my Subi shipped, just got here today. The interior is covered in alot of mold and i am currently using the vinigar trick and scrubing alot. i am trying to find out how hard it will be to take out the front seats to be able to clean it a little better. can someone tell me how easy they are to take out? thanks, subi dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) I definitely wanna follow this thread. My sister's Mustang has been sitting for a few months and now has mold on the inside. She might clean it up, but considering she lives in Canada, her car isn't driven at all. Plus, she'd need to spend tons of money on a battery and alternator. But anyways, if there are any good tricks to cleaning out mold, I'm interested in knowing about them. As far as the seats go, they are super easy to take out. There are four 12 mm (or maybe 14) bolts underneath the seat, on the rails. Undo the four bolts, and the front seats come right out. They easily bolt back on too. I swapped out my front seats and rear bench seat in my Soob in about 30 minutes. Edited February 19, 2013 by jj421 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi dude Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 yea thats what it looked like. i was just making sure no springs or something are going to come popping out when i lift it out. ill keep you posted with the cleaning. i used the vinegar and water trick before and it seemed to work. i also have a bissle carpet cleaner, so i know thats going to help ALOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Cool to see a new "Old" Subaru guy in the area. Come visit my shop! I am minutes from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Might want to hit the bolts with pb-blaster or wd-40 first. I had two snap on me (one each seat) and I was going easy on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) I never had any issues with seat bolts sticking, (but then again I had a rust free Oregon car) You may want to hit them with lube if they salt the roads there. If you really want to get the car cleaned out, pull the seats, lower interior side panels and door sills and the carpet too. I have used scrubbing bubbles (in the spray can) with pretty good results in the past. Take care when re-installing the seats so that you don't crossthread the bolt holes and strip them out. Then your seats will never mount securely (if you strip the holes). Edited February 19, 2013 by Flowmastered87GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 put the seat back and remove the bolts in the front. slide the seats forward and remove the rear. There are plastic caps on the end of the rails. unplug the seatbelt warning wire on the diriver seat. If you have automatic seat belts, you will have to fish the end throught he little bracket. there will be a 16mm (5/16") bolt on the nner part of the rail that is part of the seatbelt clip. Not too hard to do. all you need is a 14mm socket. an extension makes it easier. As far as combating mold, i find that a liquid spray athlete's foot product kills mildew and keeps it at bay. the generic equivalent of tinactin will do. The rear seats are not difficult to remove. The lower part comes off at the hinges on the fotn parts, one bolt on each side. For the upper part, remove the bracket in the middle from the backs of the seats, and slide them off the pegs on the outer ends of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickNakorn Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I used a branded spray-on dry cleaning foam on a Nissan and it worked really well - the seat came up almost like new. I'll be doing the same on my Subaru once it's out of the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old sub freak Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) My favorite is "Awesome" from the dollar store...You can thin it to 50/50 and it still works good...for rubbed in dirt,ect I use it srtaight. I think the best trick for mold ect.is to mist down everything soap and then shut the doors on a sunny day..Let it "cook"for a hour or so and then just wipe it off,Works great... well thats my 2 bits worth..OSF Has anyone found the trick to get rid of the "mouse smell" from leaving your Subaru in the barn?? It seems that they really like the heater and fan area..So when you turn on the defrost...EUUUUUU stink !! I just get in there with a soapy rag with long handled neddle nose plyers and hope for the best. After all I have read "they" say the best way to keep mice out is to make a smell that mice don't like..Like mint is spossed to work.i had some urineal blocks that I tried.So far so good.Hey it smells better than mice pee.haha and it goes away in a day or so... Edited February 19, 2013 by old sub freak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi dude Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Finally finished. used the vinegar, then carpet cleaning bissle'd it. the seats feel super soft and brand new now. just got to get rid of that light vinegar smell. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBoot Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Rent a hot water carpet extractor, like a rug doctor, with the hand tool with a clear plastic part so you can see the water color and if it's clear after a few passes. Use concrobium spray to kill the mold and musty smells, and use a degreaser and spray onto the carpets and scrub before using the extractor. Then rent a ozone generator and dehumidifier to finish off any smell and dry out. Home depot has kent brand extractors for rent, more power than grocery store rug doctor. I'm fortunate to have these tools in my contractor van Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBoot Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 For smells in the air conditioning, find the air intake outside and spray a whole can of lysol into it while the fan is on high, turn off and let sit for a few minutes and turn on heat to dry it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-tombba- Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) For smells in the air conditioning, find the air intake outside and spray a whole can of lysol into it while the fan is on high, turn off and let sit for a few minutes and turn on heat to dry it out. Or just use the air interior circulation and buy a can of aircon cleaner spray (like the lysol mentioned by BlackBoot). Altought this does not clean the air intake ducts outside of the car as it would when spraying from the outside. Anyway this did the trick for me. I used a can of CRC airco cleaner. It's pretty easy to use since it epties itself into the car when opened. I did put the can to the front passenger footwell and left it in the car for 10-15min when heater was in intrior circulation position and heating on maximum setting. Then just took the can off after 10-15min and the interior was nice and fresh along with the air blowing from the heater. Edited February 23, 2013 by -tombba- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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