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So as soon as I sell my BRAT. I plan on buying a Legacy. I want to lift the Legacy, and heard there are many ways to go about it.

 

1) Buy a lift kit and install. Lengthen the steering column, brake lines, etc.

2) Put Outback springs and shocks on the Legacy. Nothing else required.

3) Put Forrester Springs and Struts on the Legacy. Nothing else required.

 

Am i correct on these three options. Which is the easiest? I know theres a lot of threads already out there on this topic, but they all yield different instructions and are confusing. Help?

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the above is true, but there are year limitations. not all struts interchange with all years.

 

but outback struts and springs on the same ''style / year'' leagacy will work. (95 - 99, or 00 - 04 )

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the above is true, but there are year limitations. not all struts interchange with all years.

 

but outback struts and springs on the same ''style / year'' leagacy will work. (95 - 99, or 00 - 04 )

It's just as simple as that? Besides the allignment and such? I read that springs and struts give a whole vehicle lift, Where as just Struts give a body lift. True or False? 

Edited by ThatSubaruKid

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there seems to be a debate about the springs, but the struts will add 2" regardless of what spring you use. except lowering springs.

 

i just put 01 outback struts and springs on my 00 lego wagon. when i compared the strut/ spring setup,  lego to outback, the spring height was EXACTLY the same for the front. this suggest to me that the spring makes no difference. and although the piston may be able to compress a little farther, it cannot extend any farther.  the extra lenght is in the lower half of the strut.

 

the finished spring lenght on the rears appeared to be about 1/4 inch taller. the struts were about 2" taller.

 

so in my opinion, all of the lift is accomplished because of the longer lower half of the struts.

 

there is a different part number for the lego spring and the outback spring, but even if the outback spring is taller, it just means it ends up being ''stiffer'' because it is being bolted into a mount that compresses it to the lego lenght.

 

so if you are on a budget, buy used strut and spring setup from a salvage yard, about $40 - $50 each.

 

if you have the money, buy new KYB_GR2 outback struts and use your lego springs, about 85$ each.

 

or if you want, buy new or used outback springs and use them with the KYBs. $$??

 

all 3 will lift the car about 2 inches.

 

http://www.car-part.com  for parts.

Edited by johnceggleston

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there seems to be a debate about the springs, but the struts will add 2" regardless of what spring you use. except lowering springs.

 

i just put 01 outback struts and springs on my 00 lego wagon. when i compared the strut/ spring setup,  lego to outback, the spring height was EXACTLY the same for the front. this suggest to me that the spring makes no difference. and although the piston may be able to compress a little farther, it cannot extend any farther.  the extra lenght is in the lower half of the strut.

 

the finished spring lenght on the rears appeared to be about 1/4 inch taller. the struts were about 2" taller.

 

so in my opinion, all of the lift is accomplished because of the longer lower half of the struts.

 

there is a different part number for the lego spring and the outback spring, but even if the outback spring is taller, it just means it ends up being ''stiffer'' because it is being bolted into a mount that compresses it to the lego lenght.

 

so if you are on a budget, buy used strut and spring setup from a salvage yard, about $40 - $50 each.

 

if you have the money, buy new KYB_GR2 outback struts and use your lego springs, about 85$ each.

 

or if you want, buy new or used outback springs and use them with the KYBs. $$??

 

all 3 will lift the car about 2 inches.

 

www.car-part.com  for parts.

That helps so much. Thank you!

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i'm not sure what lift blocks are exactly. but you can get blocks that bolt inbetween the top of the strut and the chassis of the car. this will lift it a bit.

 

i saw an ad on CL here in VA for some. i think it was 3/4 '' up through 2'' price varying up to $250.

 

http://blacksburg.craigslist.org/pts/3617929900.html

 

 

 

Subaru lift kits - $100 (rural rtreat)

        3E23G63p35L25H95Jed2ec64eea5faca514f5.jp
    

  

        I'm making and selling lift kits for Subaru legacy, outbacks, and
foresters. Anywhere from 1/2" to 2". Depending on Height determines
price. 2" is 250 and 1/2" is 75. Call or text 2766131229.
    

    

  • Location: rural rtreat
  • it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
Edited by johnceggleston

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From what I have read 96-99 outbacks use the same springs as their legacy counterparts.  But the struts give the lift, add on some 98-03 forester springs for an additional 1-1.5 inches, only drawback with this is you must use forester top hats and strut mounts because the springs are tapered different.  The lift blocks are all well and good but you are greatly limited by the rear struts as to what size tires you can run.  Outback rear struts can clear up to a ~29 inch tire, 98-03 forester rears cannot run bigger than the stock outback 205/70r15.  And I can prove it lol.  98-03 forester and 96-99 outbacks use the same front strut so that makes that part a little simpler.

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It all depends on the size tire you want as well.  Bigger tires will need a lift kit to get the body out of the way of the tires, OR LOTS OF CUTTING/TRIMMING of the fenders will be required.  I am running 235/75/15's on my 1990 leggy and without wheel spacers and a lift it would not be happening.  Tires will not clear the spring perch on the strut.  Even with a 3" SJR lift and 08 forrester sturts and springs and wheel spacers I still had to cut a fair bit of my fenders to stuff the tires under it.

 

As for where to install the lift blocks, you are going to have to do lots of reading.  My lift kit was 16 pieces total and all said and done it took 30+ hours to get it all done and I had awesome help from someone who knew what they were doing and it still took over 3 days to get it done, and it's still not done completely.  This is not a trival thing.  Every one of my bolts that held on the suspension, transmission, and engine was touched.  It's ALOT of work, but SOOOOO worth it.  I sit about 8" higher now :)  Very much worth it.

 

So I guess it comes down to what size tires you want and how much trimming/cutting/bashing you are willing to do to your car.

Edited by eulogious

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It would actually be 98-02 Foresters that are the same. 03-08 are different. Although it does seem that the front struts are the same for all 98-08 Foresters and 97-99 Outbacks. 98-02 Foresters won't fit anything bigger than the 205 70 15 tire in the back, as was pointed out, but 03-08 Foresters will fit a 215 70 16. That's what I run on my 98. I installed 03-08 rear struts and was able to clear the bigger tires, with a 2" strut top lift. Been running it for over a year now with no issues.

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Very interesting eulogious. Do you have any pix of your rig that you could post?

Yup I do, but I am on my phone and will get one up when I get to my comp later tonight!

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So I just read something that sounds sketchy...but somewhat safe at the same time. BOAT ROLLERS. Ya know the things that help you roll your boat forward on the trailer. If you cut them into 2.5in Pucks and put them in between the strut and car they give it a lift. The only downfall is that they squeeck on cold mornings going over bumps....Safe or not Safe? I WILL FIND OUT!!! Can't wait to get a legacy. Btw...if anyone in the PDX/Vancouver area notice's their Boat rollers on the trailer are missing....wasn't me ;) 

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LOL yea now that im thinking about it....On another note. Whats the biggest size lift block you could throw on your suspension without messing with your CV too bad? Is 3in too much?

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Outback/Forester suspension lifts between 2 and 2 1/2", and that's pretty much the most you would want to do before you really put too much stress on the cv axles. More can be done, but you will go through axles quicker.

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Outback/Forester suspension lifts between 2 and 2 1/2", and that's pretty much the most you would want to do before you really put too much stress on the cv axles. More can be done, but you will go through axles quicker.

Define quicker.....lol

 

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Lol, well it could be instantaneous, or could be a few weeks. Depends on the brand of axle, and how worn it is before you install the lift. My axles on my 2" lifted Forester, have survived pretty well. But the boots rip very quickly, which allows water and dirt to get into the joint, so that will cause early failure, especially when they are at more of angle due to the lift. But as a rule, it will be more often than you want to change them. If I were to go over 2", I would do a full lift. But I know many have gotten by with 2.5-3" and been ok. But I also drive mine every single day.

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Lol, well it could be instantaneous, or could be a few weeks. Depends on the brand of axle, and how worn it is before you install the lift. My axles on my 2" lifted Forester, have survived pretty well. But the boots rip very quickly, which allows water and dirt to get into the joint, so that will cause early failure, especially when they are at more of angle due to the lift. But as a rule, it will be more often than you want to change them. If I were to go over 2", I would do a full lift. But I know many have gotten by with 2.5-3" and been ok. But I also drive mine every single day.

So If i did 2in on the struts and then did a 2in lift you think it would be better?

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Well if you want to go that big, then yes, it would be better on the axles. Then you could fit bigger tires as well, depending on wheel choice of course.

Edited by bratman18

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Very interesting eulogious. Do you have any pix of your rig that you could post?

P83185700.jpg

 

If you don't want to shred your axels, a full lift is needed.  I have a 3" SJR lift with 07/08 Forester struts and the axels are at more of an angle, but nothing extreme and I have had no issues so far, but it's only been lifted a month.

 

As for placement of the blocks, engine mounts, trans mounts, rear subframe, and any other place where the body attaches to the suspension.  It was at least 17 different places, if not a few more.  Literally every place the body and the suspension meet.

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P83185700.jpg

 

If you don't want to shred your axels, a full lift is needed.  I have a 3" SJR lift with 07/08 Forester struts and the axels are at more of an angle, but nothing extreme and I have had no issues so far, but it's only been lifted a month.

 

As for placement of the blocks, engine mounts, trans mounts, rear subframe, and any other place where the body attaches to the suspension.  It was at least 17 different places, if not a few more.  Literally every place the body and the suspension meet.

Great! That helps a lot.

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Oh, and for the steering extenstion, I just used a steering shaft from an 96/97 outback and it worked great.  It was the perfect length, and I didn't have to weld it :-)

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