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Crossmember/Diff Drop kit Install?


herb
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Does the kit have all the bolts and hardware?If not get ahold of bill and find out everything you will need and get that all in advance,because there is nothing worse than needing a bolt,nut or washer when your car is torn down.

 

After you have everything you need set everything in front of you and visualize where everything needs to go.Then start with the front end because it will take the longest.After that the rear is cake.

 

Impact wrenches are awesome for getting everything loose.

 

How big is the lift anyway?

Edited by Uberoo
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like I said start at the front.

 

put a jack/jack stand/block under the engine/suspension cross member undo all bolts holding cross member to car including steering shaft,undo upper strut mount from body,remove rubber mounts for exhaust.Raise body up off cross member struts enough to install lift.Then get all the bolts/nuts started before tightening any of them down. install steering extension loosely. Once all the blocks are in correctly, tighten them as well as the steering extension.After all that the rear is cake.

 

NOTE: your camber will be FUBAR until you have a chance to drive the car around the block and get the suspension to settle.

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Okay I'm at a loss.  I understand the concept of how to install it (thanks uberoo!), I just don't have any idea where the 20 different blocks are supposed to go.  I'll try to get a picture of the kit maybe some of you gurus can point me in the right direction.  It's my daily driver, so I cant just tear into this project blindly and figure out over a couple days, I've got a very limited time frame to wrench so I need to do my homework before I dive in...  

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Here is a pic from a 3" kit I sold a few years ago, it has basically the same parts, laid out as they are to be installed on the car, with the exception of the mustache bar. Your kit has 2 extra blocks cut from 2x2 that bolt between the body and the mustache bar brackets.

 

10-27-09_1619.jpg

 

Feel free to PM me with any more questions, I should have taken pictures of your kit laid out before I shipped it, so that's my bad.

 

-Bill

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  • 2 years later...

a 6K rpm clutch drop in 4wd will do it,driving aggressively with a front axle blown will do it.It will still bend just like a ea81 bar..

 

The only reason ea82 bars seem more resilient is the front diff bushing isn't totally gone on ea82's like it is on most ea81's.

Edited by Uberoo
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I'm not sure about that one. I've beaten on many ea82 cars. 100's of clutch drops, and even ran one in rwd with a blown front axle for some times. Lots of roll backs were done. Never bent one. But I bent the one in my brat all the time. I'd take it out and straighten it from time to time. Then replaced it a few times as well. Still bent them like nothing.

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Like I said,its all about how shot the front diff mount bushing is.If you can take your mustache bar out and the diff will only move up and down with very little side to side pay you probably wont bend your bar.If on the flip side you can move your diff forward and back,and side to side,and diagonally you will bend your bar.Most ea82's wont have that sloppy of bushings,but ea81's due to the age and different rubber compounds will have that sloppy of bushings.

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