silverback Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 The images are of the same fitting. Straight through is supply to carb. The smaller tube returns fuel to tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 change intake gaskets for factory subaru ones and is called plug tracking spark jumping down the side instead of thru the plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) Alright switched the plugs and wires, now it's running fine EXCEPT... I know this is redundant to ask but I'd like to ask anyway. Once it's warmed up, it runs great and idles nice and smooth. However, after driving a while I start to feel surging and it acts like the choke is cutting in and out... dies at idle but sometimes rpms come back up etc.. I don't have the choke hooked up so my question is, could this be fuel pressure related? I'm not going to bother renting a tester kit, if you guys think it may be fuel pressure related I'll just buy an in-line fuel pressure gauge and stick it between the fuel filter and the carb. Edit: This is the fuel pump that has the little black box on the outside of it, and I know that sometimes when I crank it if I don't hold the key just right the pump doesn't kick on until you stop cranking. So it'll crank crank crank... then you stop cranking and it fires up. Could this be a sign of something with the fuel delivery getting old? Edited April 8, 2013 by Subaru_dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 or worn ig switch make shure you have a heat riser on carb is critical part must have heat to carb or will frezze up and create ice in carb throat. When we used to run the SU carbs thiss was huge problem whould freeze right shut had a water heater on it and a exhaust heat riser and still whould try to freeze up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) So after some reading I'm pretty sure I need to test some things first with my test light and meter. It does seem to be ignition module though, but won't know until after testing. If I buy an ignition module do I need to buy just the horse-shoe shaped part or the whole thing? They're alot more expensive than I thought. Thanks for the help guys, this thing is finally coming right along. Edit: Oh lordy ignition modules are pricey... I see that there's a coupe different parts to it. Would I be better off just getting a new disty? Think I found one for $300 from Napa. Edited April 10, 2013 by Subaru_dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 ea81 ? have converted a ea82 dis to fitt ea81 before i may have a module or two kicken hitachi or denso ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 SubaruDude... I have had 2 EA82 distys rebuilt by Philbin. About $140. The last one I mailed on Monday. They got it on Tuesday. Rebuilt it. They mailed it on Wed. I received it on Thursday. They are located in Portland, OR. I am in Tillamook, OR. I sent it U.S. Mail First Class (only $1 more). You could do the overnight if it fits it ships for maybe $10. I highly recommend them. Let me know if you need contact info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 All I have is a voltmeter and test light to test with. Had my sis crank the car while I held the test light to the positive on the coil and the light didn't do anything, but holding it the other way around (light end against negative) I had a pulse. I also had a pulse on the 2 wires on the left of the ignition module (yellow and green?). With the key just turned on I have power to everything but the white wire on the ignition module... don't know if that tells you guys anything or not. I don't have a clue what it means.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 black /white positive side coil yelow - side of coil shuold have 12 volts on black and white wire at coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 This writeup might be Helpful: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129601-how-to-easily-test-an-ignition-module/ Kind Regards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Heck yeah Loyale2.7!!!!!!! That's perfect and super straight forward. I will test it as soon as the weather clears, got some storms coming in tonight, should be gone by tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Alright after changing both fuel filters, the fuel pump, the ignition coil and testing the ignition module, I can't figure out what's wrong. Sometimes it idles and runs good, then all of a sudden it's like it's running on 2 cylinders UNTIL you start driving it, then it feels like it's running on all 4 but there's some surging under acceleration. I used Loyale2.7's technique to test the ignition module. Got spark. I'm supposed to be having an ignition module headed this way but the eBay seller ran into some trouble or something. Should have had it on the 18th. Could the little blue box under my dash have anything to do with it? Is the fuel pressure controlled by the stupid little comp under the dash in some way? I wanna say the comp has nothing to do with it because it's not even plugged in. As of now I'm broke so no fuel pressure test for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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