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95 legacy needs more clearance

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95 - 99 springs should fit, no problem. outback lego GT are all the same.

but double check to make sure there is no rust around the top mounts.are

 

 you carrying a load, or lots of tools?

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Great! Thank you! That simplifies things greatly. Question, though; are the outback springs a bit taller? I thought I read that. If so, great. It would give some lift for our seldom maintained country roads.

 

My wife and I have an animal sanctuary, so I carry loads of food....sometimes bags of dry dog/cat kibble, but most times boxes of scrap produce and most times filling the rear. But, speaking of tools, the former carried lots of tools as he is a contractor. Saved him on fuel expense over using a truck. So, by the time I bought vehicle, he'd already worn out the springs, really.

Edited by thook44

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Oh, and there's no rust on the mounts. I changed out the struts earlier this year and though there is some around the fender wells and rocker panels, there is very little to none on the under side of the vehicle. 

Edited by thook44

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thook44 I'm about to do the same as you, as I have just picked up struts and trailing arm brackets from a '99 OBW, and from what I've read, the springs are the same as the leggy. Here's what I've gathered from my research:

 

1. Leggy struts are the shortest

2. OB struts are longer, same springs

3. Forester struts are the same length as OB, but different springs

 

From just switching OB strut/spring assemblies, you can expect about 1 1/2" lift from stock leggy, but you may have an issue with geometry, specifically the wheel not being centered, which OB trailing arm brackets can fix. The actual trailing arm is the same length on legacy's and Outbacks, it's just that the bracket itself is taller on the Outback. 

 

Hope that helps

 

EDIT: I just saw that you have a 1st Gen Leggy. I know mechanically they are just about the same, so if I had to assume, it should be a direct swap still. The only thing that may be different is the bolt spread on the top of the strut. In this case, there should be 2 bolts that fit properly with one that isn't in the right spot. A quick drilling should fix that issue though, and the rest should be straightforward. 

Edited by SubieWagon

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thook44 I'm about to do the same as you, as I have just picked up struts and trailing arm brackets from a '99 OBW, and from what I've read, the springs are the same as the leggy. Here's what I've gathered from my research:

 

1. Leggy struts are the shortest

2. OB struts are longer, same springs

3. Forester struts are the same length as OB, but different springs

 

From just switching OB strut/spring assemblies, you can expect about 1 1/2" lift from stock leggy, but you may have an issue with geometry, specifically the wheel not being centered, which OB trailing arm brackets can fix. The actual trailing arm is the same length on legacy's and Outbacks, it's just that the bracket itself is taller on the Outback. 

 

Hope that helps

 

EDIT: I just saw that you have a 1st Gen Leggy. I know mechanically they are just about the same, so if I had to assume, it should be a direct swap still. The only thing that may be different is the bolt spread on the top of the strut. In this case, there should be 2 bolts that fit properly with one that isn't in the right spot. A quick drilling should fix that issue though, and the rest should be straightforward. 

 First off, you'll have to forgive me; I'm mechanically competent enough to do whatever's necessary coming from working on Toyotas, but I'm not experienced with working much on the Suby's. So, when you say trailing arm I know what that is, but not what the bracket is. And, if I'm correct in understanding what you mean when you speak of the bolt spread, I assume you're meaning if I were to swap in the OB struts there would that bolt pattern/mounting issue....in which case I'm trying to avoid having to get entirely different struts. :) Again, these Leggy struts are new. And, so if I can keep my new struts, the bolt spread would be moot, right?

 

Having said that, I need to know what the brackets are you refer to, where to source them, and what's involved in swapping the brackets out. If I have to go to a salvage yard and yank some out, I don't have time for it. (Unless the yard already has them pulled) Or, if brand new brackets are very costly, I'd rather simply get some replacement Leggy springs, forego the lift, and call it done. Sometime in the future, when these new struts wear out, I can do the entire swap out thing. That'd be great fun. :) Some 15" wheels would open up options on the tires available. 

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Oh, and where are you guys getting your springs? Online? 

 

Thanks a bunch!

 

Edit: I checked out https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html for atleast the rear on pricing. Is there an aftermarket source you guys have used? Comparable quality, but maybe better prices? I can do the prices SGP offer, but you know....if there's a better price somewhere for still good quality, I'd do that. 

Edited by thook44

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Okay, thanks. :)

 

Quote from beefwagon:

 

"use 96-99 outback rear struts with forester springs in the rear and complete forester setups in the front. The 04'+ will be slightly higher but the springs from anything before that are taller. they are also softer so if your looking for  stiffness stay with the outback setup all the way around. also change the rear trailing arm brackets it is totally worth it. take the time to pb blast the bolts for the brackets very well and try not to use an impact on them. there are welded bolts in the frame that if broen are a tragedy to get out. I did mine last night and ended up cutting off one of the bolts and now have to weld the bracket in place. if you want to go ghetto drill new holes in the back strut mount holes to fit the new pattern, if you have spring compressors etc keep your old tophats and change them out. the easiest way is to get the outback complete strut assemblys all the way around from a 96-99 and change them out. it is the cheapest and youll get almost 2 inches for around a hundred bucks."

 

It'll take me a bit of reading and absorbing to understand what's being said there in the whole thread, but from what I gather so far, it would seem swapping out the struts entirely with OB strut/spring assy's would be cheaper and easier than getting just springs? Is that going new or used? Just use my current Leggy top hats to eliminate having to drill new holes? I'm understanding this guy correctly? 

 

Sorry, I'm a bit confused right now, but I'll keep reading. Thanks, again!

Edited by thook44

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Alright. I've got some things figured out and I'm fairly confident I know what's going......although in one thread I found a fella said the brackets weren't necessary unless one was going to big tire. Nevertheless, I'm gonna shoot for brackets and strut assy's from an OB. Try and find an online salvage for the parts, eh. B)

Edited by thook44

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Question....

 

What about just installing some spacers, for now, to level things out in the rear? I see they're available for Imprezas, atleast. I do have some rubber ones I bought at O'Reilly....the rubber split doughnut type that I'm assuming are supposed to be installed under/on top of (which way?) of the coil within the strut. I think it's 1" maybe 1.25" thick. I bought them months ago and my dumb ars thought they were supposed to be slid somewhere appropriate within the coil. Of course, that didn't work because they simply fell out...lol! <<derr>>

Edited by thook44

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Thanks to all who have previously contributed to this thread (if you happen to still be around to read this) and to any others who come to chime in.

 

I'm a bit stuck after following the info I found here and will explain. I want to increase the ground clearance on my 1997 Legacy L Wagon and so I went to the local yard and pulled some struts/springs from a 1997 Outback. Now I'm having trouble getting them into my car. I've started at the left rear and it seems like the additional length of the Outback strut is keeping the two bolt holes at the bottom of the strut from lining up with the matching holes on the wheel hub. I read here that it should bolt right up with no problem whatsoever. Am I missing something?

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The strut may be hitting the body, check along the back of the strut. When I lifted my 97 sedan I had to add some clearance with a hammer.

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I also ended up having to get out one of my B.F.H.s, though not for the same reason you did. I simply had to push the hub down much further than I had tried previously (for fear of wrecking something) and when I did the bottom holes lined up and I was able to push/tap the bolt through. Then a bit more elbow grease was needed to rotate the top of the hub in toward the strut to line up the upper holes. Got it all done (along with a bleed of the brakes) tonight. Now I gotta figure out how to get the tires straight instead of being rotated inward at the bottom!

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You should check the clearance behind the strut, once I hammered on mine the strut went on without any abnormal effort.

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I have a legacy wagon 1992 mod. with ej18 engine . I want to lift about 2-3 inches.Wich model of Outback. or Forester components (sruts springs) will fit ?

Hello from Greece !

 

I have till today 387.000 kms with no major issues .

The car works fine with - lpg .post-67670-0-08651100-1504176119_thumb.jpgpost-67670-0-08651100-1504176119_thumb.jpg

Edited by gbtechelec
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Buy all 4 struts for a 1998 Legacy Outback, re-use your springs and top hats. In the rear you will probably need to put a couple lockwashers under the nut that holds the top hat onto the strut because the threaded portion of the Outback strut rod doesn't go far enough down so the nut jams before it actually clamps the top hat. Other than that it's pretty easy. Instead of un-doing the brake lines and bleeding them after, just cut into the bracket and bend it back so you can slip the hose out. do the same to the new strut, slide the hose in, bend it back flat and put the spring clip back on.

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Woodswagon thank you very much for your advice . You've helped me and i can save a lot of money.

If you ever come in Greece mail me .I wouldlike to meet you and you can stay in my house. If you want .

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Buy all 4 struts for a 1998 Legacy Outback, re-use your springs and top hats. In the rear you will probably need to put a couple lockwashers under the nut that holds the top hat onto the strut because the threaded portion of the Outback strut rod doesn't go far enough down so the nut jams before it actually clamps the top hat. Other than that it's pretty easy. Instead of un-doing the brake lines and bleeding them after, just cut into the bracket and bend it back so you can slip the hose out. do the same to the new strut, slide the hose in, bend it back flat and put the spring clip back on.

I can't find outback struts here in Greece. Can i put parts from a Forester and which?

Thank you in advance.

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So I just wanna go over what I have read as I have a 1997 Legacy Brighton wagon and I wanna raise it about 2 inches at least as I at times carry some weight in it. I am planning on going with a 215/60/16 a/t tire.I am going to use the struts out of a 2004 forester xt-complete with new mounting hardware.Now should I use the Forester upper strut mounts also.As far as springs should I go with some new Forester springs or get something better? I also read about using a Outback trailing arm bracket to relocate the wheel.What year Outback? Do I also need to go with Forester sway bar links front and rear? Any other info that can be offered would be greatly appreciated.I wanna make sure I do this correctly as next year I am planning a 9,000 road trip. Thanks Again. 

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