soobiefreak85 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Thanks to Shawn, our fearless Board leader, I now have a Weber on my 87 Hatch. It was pretty simple to put in. The most time consuming part was eliminating all the hitachi sensors, valves, and hoses etc. After I extended the wire for the electric choke, redid the fuel lines, and pvc hoses...I was amazed how clean, organized, and simple the engine bay is now. I love it. That is just the beginning...Upon start up, she fired right up ran smoother. It never really ran "bad" before, but I notice a difference. Acceleration is more responsive and it seems I have a few more horses. I am overall very impressed, well worth the money. I just need to take into a shop and have them FINE tune it, for optimum performance and fuel economy. I still have a problem, maybe you guys can help. It did this with the hitachi as well, I thought the carb was the problem. When I shut it off, it continues to run for another second or 2. It does not do it all the time, intermittently. Typically if I VERY slowly turn the key off, it will not continue to run for another second and sputter off. When it does continue to run for second or two, and I re start it immediately or 15-20 mins later, it has a little bit of a rough time starting and runs rough. Is the ignition switch worn or coil? Thoughts on this? Thanks, Wes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88wacaroo Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Yeah,It"s a Trip to open the Hood and There"s nothing there You can actually SEE the Motor and Realize that What Is There is All It needs to run-Carb,Disty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 the 15-20 minute thing is probably the fuel draining back into the tank. there is enough fuel in the bowl to start, but the lines are dry and need primed. mine does that as well. Mine doesnt diesel though. check your fuel pressure, webers are sensitive to pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobiefreak85 Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 That makes sense. But it dieseled with with the Hitachi too. I have a new fuel pump on there, but I will check the pressure to ensure it is no more or less than the Weber wants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 ok so how does yours fit with the throttle cable like it is? when I put mine on I had to put the carb on the other way cause the little round part of the carb hit my plug wires.. so my throttle cable comes up next to the alternator and then loops back to the carb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88wacaroo Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Is the Fuel Return Line hooked up? Most of the guys on here put a fuel pressure regulator on them...I"ve never had to.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobiefreak85 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 ok so how does yours fit with the throttle cable like it is? when I put mine on I had to put the carb on the other way cause the little round part of the carb hit my plug wires.. so my throttle cable comes up next to the alternator and then loops back to the carb... Really?? I bet that was a hassle to route. Mine just barely misses the plug wires. What year is yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobiefreak85 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 Is the Fuel Return Line hooked up? Most of the guys on here put a fuel pressure regulator on them...I"ve never had to.... No I didn't, GD said on older threads you can do it either way. I figured, one less hose...simpler and easier I don't see a reason to throw pressure regulator on, unless someone can give a justifiable reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 My weber was loading up with too much fuel all the time, so I did put on an adjustable regulator. I plumbed in the return line fitting from the hitachi too, so (theoretically) the pump won't see more pressure than it needs to. I figured, the hose is there, the fitting is there, so why not. Mine does the same thing too, running on after the key is off. Only occasionally, and only for a second or two at the most. Not sure why it does it exactly, but to my ear it sure doesnt sound like dieseling. Its like its still getting spark for a couple extra revolutions. I dont worry about it. Anyways... As to the rough restart; does it smell like gas? Could just be flooded. Mine does that still every now and again. Especially if I was driving it like its stolen before i shut it off. I dont worry about it. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 (edited) Really?? I bet that was a hassle to route. Mine just barely misses the plug wires. What year is yours? actually it went on super easy backwards, lol no issues other than the throttle cable being a little tight, but it doesn't bind and works fine.. I have an 84' ea81 wagon.. nothing special.. on the the dieseling.. I left my fuel return hose hooked up, it gets rid of the need for a fuel pressure regulator.. the fuel is able to flow back to the tank when the floats cut the flow off.. if your timing is advanced a little too far it might cause it to diesel a little.. might check it.. mine doesn't diesel at all, but everything was original like out of a museum when I put the weber on... maybe it needs to be put on backwards?!@# lol just kidding... edit: ok looking at your pic again, I must have a tad bit different weber carb version...the part the sticks out (in your pic) right next to your plug wire, is different, yours is shorter, mine sticks out another inch.. guess mine stays on backwards.. Edited March 27, 2013 by Meeky Moose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88wacaroo Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 I should"ve mentioned the return line....thats the way I do mine....The Runon issue is probably a little rich and timing a little off But without a return line it"s getting a little extra gas which could cause it also... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobiefreak85 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 You guys are right, it won't hurt to throw the return line on. I will double check the timing too. Thanks to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Somebody explain this to me please...not trying to be a wiseass. ignition timing is just that, the timing of the spark. So how would advanced ignition timing cause it to continue to run once the key is off? Key off=no spark anyway, so ignition timing is irrelevent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Overadvanced ignition timing results in too high temps leaving a spot hot enough to ignite the fuel w/o a spark. You create an unintentional glow plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Overadvanced ignition timing results in too high temps leaving a spot hot enough to ignite the fuel w/o a spark.You create an unintentional glow plug. Hmmm, maybe. If the timing were the issue here, i think thered be other driveability problems as well. Like "pinging" at least. And with mine at least, it does not sound like dieseling. I kinda figured it was 12v volts somehow finding its way to the coil for a second after the key was off. Regardless, i think its a non-issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Looks real good! Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Okay where does the return fuel line need to hook into? I am not following where it goes to and from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Okay where does the return fuel line need to hook into? I am not following where it goes to and from Put the fitting on the carb, and hook up the factory return line.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Since it did it with both carbs, I'm gonna say it's not the carb. It's electrical. Ignition switch. My 84 Sedan does it and my 86 Brat too sometimes even kicks the starter for a moment when turning key off. Turn it slowly, and it doesn't happen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Since it did it with both carbs, I'm gonna say it's not the carb. It's electrical. Ignition switch. My 84 Sedan does it and my 86 Brat too sometimes even kicks the starter for a moment when turning key off. Turn it slowly, and it doesn't happen. Oh neato, so i was actually maybe correct when i said i figured it felt like power was somehow making it to the coil after i turned the key off. I knew i wasnt crazy! Oh wait.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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