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Its buggy time agian

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Dug the buggy out and started on thiss years setup They had flaged it at last race needs to have a recognzieabble body on it so have been puting a cutdown outback frontend on it grill headlight covers hood. Its starting to come along motor still runs strong For having 2 forged pistons and two stock pistons but is time for next motor. Starting with 2.51 block sti forged pistons longer rods ported and polished heads chadbolt cams. And a few tricks like water meth and nos by the end of last year the tune was right on the money. It came in third over all in B class agianst 7 trucks all 950 hp + still need more hp and lighter wheight.

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Dug the buggy out and started on thiss years setup They had flaged it at last race needs to have a recognzieabble body on it so have been puting a cutdown outback frontend on it grill headlight covers hood. Its starting to come along motor still runs strong For having 2 forged pistons and two stock pistons but is time for next motor. Starting with 2.51 block sti forged pistons longer rods ported and polished heads chadbolt cams. And a few tricks like water meth and nos by the end of last year the tune was right on the money. It came in third over all in B class agianst 7 trucks all 950 hp + still need more hp and lighter wheight.

Pics!!!!

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Havent been able to get any pic on here since changed format but will work on it. The buggy is very muticoulored right now so paint first anyway took the 2.51 block and heads to my freinds shop and hacked it up took off every extra peice / ears ect we could off the engine to lighten it up and take away any parts that may trap mud on engine. Ported and polished the heads cams are still at shop should bet engine back today so can start surfacing will do head surfaces ex /in and bolck surfaces and even surface the oilpan surface and bell surface just cause i can hoping we can take 5-10 lbs of engine. The buggy i moved all the intake and exhaust pumbing and coolant lines all tucked in and hide under the hood. Am going to put outback tail lights and rear body corners on it with the spare boger tire in the center rear we are going to weight the rear to get a better balance point so can pull wheelies of the line and mabee extentnd the rear arms and biuld stronger rear axles. First race is in june at merit BC test and tune on may long weekend on the arrow beach

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stopped in at ivans to check out the new action.  

 

My phone cam couldnt handle the shiny.  heres the 251 block trimmed down with the ported heads on it. PowerFist engine stand represent!

2013-04-11185216_zpsd6d4f73f.jpg

 

and the CP pistons 

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a look right down the intake ports... im cautiously porting a set of ej22 heads for a daily driver right now - these were an eye opener.

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now for the external:

 

i'd say it looks street legal now...except for that offroad light on the top needs a cover.  

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All-Round - a mans best friend

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air intake and exhaust from the engine bay

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and the "cab".

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shot of the rear end.  loyale diff handling some power. soon to be legacy rear tail lights and some body over the rear tires, i cant wait to see that.  I think it needs a legacy bumper too, lol. maybe thow a hatch on the back instead of the spare... but those hatches are heavy.

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Givin' the hood the finger.  the Crapinator could also be called the Mud Lotus, for Ivans  shaving of ounces. 

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cold running oil pressure, after a season of racing. it was actually more like 98, but the pic caught it at 92.  not sure what oil is in it. 

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springtime is good! 

 

 

sharing pics is a bitch in the new format.  i shared these from photobucket by

 

1.  clicking on the 'picture' icon in the reply window.  it brings up a 'URL' sub- window

2. going to photobucket , right clicking on the picture, then 'copy img URL' (using the photobucket supplied codes didnt work).

3. go back to USMB window, where the sub-window is waiting for you, and copy in the URL. 

 

there is probably a better way, but i dont know it. 

 

 

 

 

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all you have to do is click the image code to the right of the photo and it should automatically copythe link.

Then just paste it.

It already has image codes around it.so no use to use it in THIS editor.(make sense?)

cheers

 

AND, I like what the outback stuff looks like! :)

MOAR PICS!!

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Thanks matt a pic is worth a 1000 words cant wait for the new engine to be done so can test it even tho last years engine still runs very strong and is still perty tight for doing a whole race season and hours of beach running wide open at redline think its almost broke in time to change it !

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Forgot to metion see the toyota truck front brakes on rear ? four piston fixed calipers and 17 inch rotors added with tortion bar and loyale coil shocks and still squats right down to take off thoose brakes can just barly hold it back at the 3500 stall at the line

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yes short block is asembeled and the heads are ready cams are here look realy nice. Pistons in block come about 1/2 a mm above deck the headgaskets will be here today. The rear diff is a 88 rx posi with extra thick clutches on clutchpack from subaru has a outback 4.44 ratio uses a 80-84 gl center axle with 85-89 gl cv ends on it i do break them from time to time but mostly when i do donuts or realy sharp turns. Seems to hold the power well have broken a few diff stubs but are easy to change out and i carry a spare i call them the diff fuse save the diff blow the stub !

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Putt the ARP head studs in last night clearanced the heads to block had to use 1 2.5d headgasket and one layer of 2.51 headgasket to get right height so pistons dont hit heads. I only get a hour here and there to work on it but is coming along

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That ej motor with the studs in shure looks like a ea81 i noticed yesterday that we ground off every identifyabble mark on the engine no ej 25 or any of that stuff gess will have to restamp it ej261 and race prototype engine # 4

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stuck waiting for sti oil pump gears had a thought about lathing the cam pullys down to lighten them anyone done thiss ? think it whould help? The plastic one is light but meatal one is very heavy tried a 25d plastic ds cam pully but is 2 mm to far from senser to work

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i built the exhaust xover yesterday spent a cupple hours die grindering out the inside of it to smooth it out and increase the size of ports. I also used ultra copper sillacon on front of oil pan to keep heat away from pan and also did the lower part of timing cover last one melted. I think on turbo engines the front of oil pan gets cooked hard anyway going to try and install it tonight

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got over to the shop late, took a few pictures of the progress...

 

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out with the old, in with the new

 

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more to come ...

Edited by matts87glsedan

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So triped over a 2.5D kicked a 2.2 pushed uota the way a 2.51 and another one climbed over a 2.5d to get the justy engine outa the way so could move the 2.51 to install the 2.51 man way to many engines in my shop !

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boy does she run good ran it up the road a few times my brakes cant hold it back anymore hitt 2nd gear and ranouta room left 30 ft of rubber trying to stop. Put a smile on my face that for shure

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hey ivan heres the official report haha

 

 

all right, i did something , so i can write a few words in here. 
went over on saturday and built a kind of front clip type thing for the Crapinator, to hold on the hood and grill for race rules compliance. 
 
Started by welding two pieces of angle onto the frame (yellow pieces) with holes in them to pop on some M8 nutclips.  Actually called 'extruded U-nuts'  if you want to check them out.  they give you a captive nut wherever you need one - very handy for attaching stuff cuz you dont need a back wrench.
 
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then attached one end of the big six inch by 1/8 flat aluminum, and bent it around to the other side.  couple of in and outs to tweak the bends and cut the second end to length and it was in. pretty tight to the pulley in front, about a 1/4 inch clearance i think. 
 
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after that, the 4 inch up and over strap that the hood pins will rest on. same thing - bend one end, mark on the other then bend and trim to fit.  attached with self tappers since its permanent.
 
then front brace from 4 inch to six inch piece.
 
I was going to do some angle braces from the skidplate up to the 6inch front piece, but after a safety meeting i thought it was more safe to use a piece of six inch for more belt protection.  it has to be on the outside cuz im very close to the pulley already. 
 
then ivan gave it the once over and called for some braces to the strut top bolts, which was a good call. now its starting to feel pretty solid.  Still needs a piece of angle across the underside of the top crossmember for stiffness, but feelin pretty good.  it'll hold a skinny mans weight without buckling at all.  
 
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then, since the new motor is in , it was time for some neighborhood test launches
 
t-minus five seconds...
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on pavement, with the paddle tires -  it squats down, then flys out of the hole like a bobcat that REALLY  wants to rip your face off.  I think it actually bent the space/ time continuum as it went by, and thats why this picture looks so weird.  
 
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so, a few of those and it was time to put it away before the cops showed up.  New motor sounds mean as flock.  
 
then, i went to the local speedway for the first time, and that was rad too.  
 
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all in all, the best weekend ive had in a while. 
Edited by matts87glsedan

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Next weekend is test weekend out to the endless burton beach sand rock piles mud pitts and water holes buggy test heaven ! thanks matt for all the hard work thiss weekend !!!

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got some 27 in bobcat tires for testing can save my paddles now put on a exhaust and valve spring mounted the fenders and exhaust it all floats and can move works realy good today is bodywork day

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2013-04-11185417_zps7dc718ef.jpg

 

Why do you have a spark plug and oil presure sensor in your intake? Is it for some sort of 5th injector set up?

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Had one race that broke a rear axle on launch and went sidways the whole pitt but stayed in bounds that whould have been better with long wheel base. The wheel base is same length as width its a square the handling is very good very stable at high speeds and over any tereran i can turn hard lock at any speed and it just turns its all i can do to lift one wheel of ground. Also removing the front brakes helped alot when i hit brakes now it pulls it strait instantly i also changed rear brake calipers yesterday to the larger 90up toyota 4 piston fixed calipers gave me about 25% more holdback. As for the plug in intake is just to plug holes and get people to ask questions was going to put a wire on it for fun anyway just pluging holes

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