Gloyale Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 So, I've been working on my suspension alot latetly. Got the rear super dialed in. 11 inches of travel!!! WOOT WOOT!! But now I need to work on the front. First try: This worked well for the upper shock mount, and the general location. Also, it was super easy to do by hammering a bolt between the channel that made the sway bar mount. Problem is, the bolts stick down low adn got hung up, also, I felt like my down travel was limited. So on to design # 2: I like this setup alot better. While doing this mod I also added 2" to the lift blocks on top of the struts. Also used some aftermarket springs that were on the a De-air suspesnsioned 92 Legacy. This combo is Muuy Bueno!!! 13 inches clearance at the Front Diff!! 4inches of travel Wish that was better, but I can certainly live with it. Questions? Comments? Pics of your mods? Discuss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 What type of mods did you do in the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 What type of mods did you do in the rear? Long travel Bilsteins. I think the application is for a lifted Toyota 4-runner. I did build and weld some perches to take the shocks. You can get almost the same results bolt in using Chevy S-10 rears. I just used these cause they are aluminum highend jobbies I got from the wrecking yard and a bit longer travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 that skidplate is hammered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) that skidplate is hammered. Indeed. It's even reinforced with 3/8 plate under the very center. It got smashed and dented at the Mounaintop Mud Bogs competition. Dented the pan pretty good too thorugh the plate. I am sure I would have destroyed the pan if there had been no plate or even just a stock plate. New one is in the works. Edited April 23, 2013 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGlegacy Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 yep going bigger to Dan. looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 I've been thinking about getting away from Struts completely and running coil-overs like the rock buggies do. they make a 12 inch version similar to the fox shocks. It would work good I think having 2 stage springs and being able to control compression and rebound. I was figuring running ~8 inches of travel and having the other 4 inches bump stopped (basically the shocks would be running 1/4 compressed sitting normal. I like the angle you've got on your front CV's, I wonder if EJ axles will run at that same angle. If I so I got at least 2 to 3 inches of suspension gain available on my OB 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 To torxxx. If you do that set up you will have to let me know how it works. I have been pondering doing something similar with my 95 legacy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 I messed around with the rear last night on my OB, ~2.5 inches of extra travel would be workable with the correct modifications to the trailing arms. Issue I ran into on the rear is the trailing arm hitting the front lateral link, limiting some of the downward movement you'd have on the high side (being the side with the shock fully extended) I still had some play in the axles, I grabbed the shaft and pulled in and out and it still had maybe a 1/2" of side to side movement, so limiting straps might be needed to keep the axles from yanking out of the diff. Other option would be STi rear axle shafts modified with early EJ roll pin axles. that would eliminate the chance of an axle popping out of the diff. Fronts, I'm leaning towards Subafreaks idea of SVX axles/spindle with the SVX control arm end welded onto the EJ control arm. and then that would lead to a hybrid hydraulic steering setup with some form of inner tierod to take up the up and town travel of the tierod shaft. ffs ideas ideas ideas... I just need a shop where I can park something on stands for a month so I can start fabbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 I was wondering last night at least with the rear if anyone has tried cutting the rear axle shafts in half and welding in a slip joint in the center to give it insane travel in and out then you could fan up custom link arms possibly with heim joints? Maybe not sure. I have built plenty of jeeps, chevys, and what have you but I have not done much with the legacy. Kind of scared to mess up my driver but would love to design a high flex rear link set up for Subi owners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Sorry about spelling issues working off my phone since we have no computer right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 I have thought about that before in the past. Using a slip yoke off a driveline. IIRC the rear diff they used in the old Nissan Z cars used a slip yoke of some form, might be a starting point. Or get ahold of RCV and get them to start making us some Subaru RCV's. They will run @ 45 degree angles and have a lifetime warranty, but then who would drop 2 grand on a set of CV axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Interesting point. I have a friend the professionally builds trophy trucks, Baja trucks, and sand rails. Maybe I will run it past him and see if he can come up with a high travel design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 I have thought about that before in the past. Using a slip yoke off a driveline. IIRC the rear diff they used in the old Nissan Z cars used a slip yoke of some form, might be a starting point. Or get ahold of RCV and get them to start making us some Subaru RCV's. They will run @ 45 degree angles and have a lifetime warranty, but then who would drop 2 grand on a set of CV axles? Nissan Z cars and others like use slipyolks because the U-joints they use don't have any slide built in. The Dual DOJ setup of the subaru axles is just fine. Like I said and showed in my above pics.......11 inches of travel. How much more do you need? Again, like the title suggests, it's the front end that could really use some travel improvement. At least the additional set of shocks and some stiff springs does wonders for the handling on the rough stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 I would say it isnt how much travel you need but more why not see how far we can push it? And could the Z car slide be welded into the center of a subi axle to make it slide more. Maybe a sort of multi link set up could be fashioned for the front as well, not as elaborate as the rear but something more flexy. Not putting down the fact that you have acheived way good flex for a subaru set up i am just always interested in designing something bigger and better is all. So take what you have and go further with it is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Sick subi by the way Gloyale loved the wheelin videos of your car way to show what a subi can do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) I would say it isnt how much travel you need but more why not see how far we can push it? Good point. But I don't think a sliders gonna help. It's the angle that the joints run at that limits them. And the axles as they are have enough slide in them to get to their max angle already. EA82 rear outer joints are fixed (no slide) but they can run at a higher angle........perhaps a slider between a set of those at each end of a shaft......maybe lengthed too with longer swingarms..........hmmmm........... Edited April 28, 2013 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 That is what I am thinking. Kind of like a sand rail. The wheels would stick out with longer arms but the cops expect that where I live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 (edited) carefull going to wide the toyota guys with the long travel setups can't go on some some trails.Even on something as small as a toyota with a long travel suspension it pushes the outside edge of the tires at 80+" A tacoma for instance is 66" wide,which is just about as wide as my rear tires from outside to outside.My front is even wider.So even on the taco's if you increase the track width 3" per side to get long travel you start getting wide.. Edited April 30, 2013 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subimonster Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Good point. Well it seems this will take some hard thinking. A good sjr lift will have to do for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86hatchback Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Keep in mind Toyota's run an offset diff. you take out the nine inches that that driver side stub axle takes up, center the diff (like a Subaru) and add the long travel axles (T100 axles) your still three inches shorter then stock. Modify the cv cups an!d you can get 28° of flex. Adapt that to a Subaru and your in business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 3" shorter than stock toyota track width would fit groovy on a subaru. Where is a toyota IFS to play with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86hatchback Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Another one to look up is sidekick toyota cv axle swap as the run a McPherson front as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Hey opening a dead thread I know but gloyale did you say I can bolt in Chevy s-10 shocks for longer travel in the back?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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