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My wagon has some leg in accelerating. It is a stick and around 2,000 rpms there is a lag, it does not want to go any faster. To me it feels like an auto tranny not wanting to downshift on a hill. After 3400 rpms the leg is gone and the power is back. It has a completely rebuilt engine, seals, gaskets, a new crank and one new rod. I found out the answer to this problem and it was the knock sensor. Below the knock sensor someone helped me place a small donut shaped gasket and this immedialetly fixed the problem. I just got a new knock sensor today and thought that it would solve the problem for good but it is back. The homemade gasket is not underneath the knock sensor. Has anyone had a problem like this and could it be part of the rebuilt engine?

Edited by scoobywagon45

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Is the CEL on?  If the Sensor is bad, you should get a CEL.  

 

Did the new sensor get properly clocked so it's setting flat?  

 

Did you read the resistance of new sensor before you installed it?

 

Just some thoughts.

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the check engine light was on before then I reset the ecu, and installed the new sensor and it was torqued down to the correct amount. Could this be part of the ecu relearning timing?

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Hand tight plus a quarter turn, is what I torque knock sensors to. No gasket under the knock sensor that will cause problems since the - negative side is conects through the block. Make sure the sensor has a good clean connection to the block and is sitting flat. Also what code are you getting?

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Pretty sure it's 17ft-lbs which is basically just snug. 1/4 turn after hand tight may be a bit too much. Hand tight, put your palm on the head of the ratchet and turn your wrist and it will be tight enough.

 

An actual code would be helpful.

 

Some other possibilities:

A dirty MAF sensor can cause hesitation like this.

Vacuum leaks.

A plugged PCV valve can cause all sorts of issues. When did it last get filters, plugs, and wires?

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Are you getting a knock sensor code? If you are I would think its probably a bad wire to the sensor or maybe a dirty connection.

Edited by mikaleda

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If the code is for the knock sensor it's a resistance issue with the circuit. The ECU either can't detect the sensor or the voltage signal is out of range due to poor connection or corrosion.

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Do you still have a CEL? It would be helpful to know exactly what codes are current. The issue may be due to another sensor.

If the current code is for the knock sensor it could be a faulty sensor.

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Yes, you need to get the CEL code.

 

Does the engine sound quiet?  If it's got tappet noises you should check the valve lash.

 

The knock sensor is a microphone, it could be hearing other noises and thinking it's knock.

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The code was for a knock sensor, I cleared it by resetting the ECU, there is a noise with the engine but it does not come up every time. I can only hear it while it is idling and it is very slight, could this be piston slap?

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The code was for a knock sensor, I cleared it by resetting the ECU, there is a noise with the engine but it does not come up every time. I can only hear it while it is idling and it is very slight, could this be piston slap?

How long has it been since you adjusted the valves?

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Need to know year and engine size to know if valve adjustment is even possible.

Still want to know if the current CEL is for the knock sensor.

I have a feeling it may be something else like a dirty MAF sensor or maybe even a misfire because of fouled or old spark plugs.

If the code is still for the knock sensor it's either a wiring issue or a bad sensor.

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I cleared the CEL and it was for a knock sensor, I moved it up a bit to where the clutch cable goes by and that diminished the lag a lot. Going to move it to another place if I can. 

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