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EA82 timing belt


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Just take the ac/alternator/water/power steering pump belt or belts off and remove crank and water pump pulleys and you should be fine. Those two pulleys you do have to take off to get into it. It's petty simple job to do but you might want to remove the radiator out of the way so you don't damage it doing the job.

 

So here goes:

 

- Take off the radiator

- Take off the belts from ac/waterpump/power steering etc.

- Remove the pulleys from water pump and crankshaft

- Remove the bolts from timing belt covers

- Remember to mark the place of belts

- Remove the belt tensioners

- Change the tighteners and oil pump pully if needed

- Take off the old belts and put new ones in

- Retighten the belt tensioners

- Check and double check the right alignment

- Pretty much put everything back on and check the timing

 

If this info isn't correct the wise men of USMB will correct me :)

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I can second rcrad94. Miles Fox's "The Art of Subaru Maintenance" saved my roast when my timing belt snapped on me.

The EA82 is a pretty simple engine to time (it was my first timing belt experience) You will know if you're off by a tooth if you mess up, but the problem rests in figuring out which side of the engine is a tooth off  ;)

 

I took everything off my car when I did mine, but I think you can get away with just removing the alternator and working around the A/C pump and its mounting bracket. You'll still need to take the radiator out and the clutch fan on the water pump though. I found it difficult getting my rattle gun out after unscrewing the crank pulley as it got itself stuck between the hood latch mount and the screw T.T

 

Good luck!

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It is not simple.  You will probably want to change your water pump at the same time.  You will want to change both timing belts, not just the one that broke.  If the timing belt tensioner pulleys are making noise when they spin, you will want to change out those as well.  You start out be centering the timing mark arrow on the three tick marks on your flywheel, so that you can later set your camshaft pulleys in the correct position.

 

1. center flywheel tic marks on timing arrow, and lock flywheel in place with screwdriver in flywheel hole

2. remove auxiliary fan, if any

3. remove A/C plate over fan belts, if any

4. remove fan blade assembly from water pump

5. remove fan belts

6. unhook wires on battery terminals, remove alternator for easier access, (if sits outward of A/C)

7. drain and remove radiator, fluid can be reused if strain through paper towel filter

8. remove front timing belt covers on both sides

9. remove center crankshaft inertia pulley

10. remove center black cover behind pulley

11. remove broken belt

12. plan on replacing rear most belt first

13. loosen timing belt tensioner pulley bolts slightly

14. note whether hole in outer edge of camshaft pulley is either straight up or straight down, they will be reinstalled opposite to each other

14. remove timing belt

15. test timing belt tensioner pulleys for bearing noise, and replace as required

16. replace water pump as required

17. realign hole in camshaft pulley to same position prior to removing the perfectly good belt

18. install new belt

19. set timing belt tensioner pulley bolts in order to have timing belts tight

20. realign hole in opposite camshaft pulley to opposite position as the other side

21. install new timing belt

22. set timing belt tensioner pulley bolts

23. install all three front covers, at side covers use new rubber or nylon gasket between bolt heads and plastic cover

24. install crankshaft pulley

25. install radiator

26. install fan blades

27. install alternator and fan belts, and A/C plate over fan belts

28. install aux. fan

29. refill radiator

30. hook up battery terminals

31. REMOVE screwdriver that was inserted in flywheel

32. start up and reset timing

33. take for test drive

34. be happy, happy, happy

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A/C compressor tensioner sticks down in front of the covers.  Gotta remove it.  *HInt* the bottom left bolt for the AC bracket can be just loosened, not removed.  The bracket is notched to slip over it.  That bolt is also a special long 14mmhead bolt(m10)

 

The tensioner bolt is a long 12mm headed bolt(m8)

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It's nt supposed to spin freely. 

 

There is a portion of it's rotaion that should be "free" but when it comes around to where the cam lobes try to open valves it will give resitance.

 

Just spin it past til it's lined up top.

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It's nt supposed to spin freely. 

 

There is a portion of it's rotaion that should be "free" but when it comes around to where the cam lobes try to open valves it will give resitance.

 

Just spin it past til it's lined up top.

so it needs the belt on it? cause i cant get it to turn at all 

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the driver side was broke so that side wouldnt spin when i turn the fly wheel. so i put the new belt on and turn it till its at the top correct? then remove it turn the fly wheel back to the middle mark then put on each belt at a time and do the 360 turn on the fly wheel after applying each belt ?

Edited by Lacyjs9
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That will work (emphasis on "work"), but it might be easier just to turn the cam sprocket by hand.  I can do it with just my hands (though my covers are off, giving me better grip), or you can use a pin-wrench.  You can make a make-shift pin-wrench by using a couple screwdrivers through the holes on its face, and a bar in-between the screwdriver shafts to turn the sprocket.

Edited by NorthWet
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It is not simple.  You will probably want to change your water pump at the same time.  You will want to change both timing belts, not just the one that broke.  If the timing belt tensioner pulleys are making noise when they spin, you will want to change out those as well.  You start out be centering the timing mark arrow on the three tick marks on your flywheel, so that you can later set your camshaft pulleys in the correct position.

 

1. center flywheel tic marks on timing arrow, and lock flywheel in place with screwdriver in flywheel hole

2. remove auxiliary fan, if any

3. remove A/C plate over fan belts, if any

4. remove fan blade assembly from water pump

5. remove fan belts

6. unhook wires on battery terminals, remove alternator for easier access, (if sits outward of A/C)

7. drain and remove radiator, fluid can be reused if strain through paper towel filter

8. remove front timing belt covers on both sides

9. remove center crankshaft inertia pulley

10. remove center black cover behind pulley

11. remove broken belt

12. plan on replacing rear most belt first

13. loosen timing belt tensioner pulley bolts slightly

14. note whether hole in outer edge of camshaft pulley is either straight up or straight down, they will be reinstalled opposite to each other

14. remove timing belt

15. test timing belt tensioner pulleys for bearing noise, and replace as required

16. replace water pump as required

17. realign hole in camshaft pulley to same position prior to removing the perfectly good belt

18. install new belt

19. set timing belt tensioner pulley bolts in order to have timing belts tight

20. realign hole in opposite camshaft pulley to opposite position as the other side

21. install new timing belt

22. set timing belt tensioner pulley bolts

23. install all three front covers, at side covers use new rubber or nylon gasket between bolt heads and plastic cover

24. install crankshaft pulley

25. install radiator

26. install fan blades

27. install alternator and fan belts, and A/C plate over fan belts

28. install aux. fan

29. refill radiator

30. hook up battery terminals

31. REMOVE screwdriver that was inserted in flywheel

32. start up and reset timing

33. take for test drive

34. be happy, happy, happy

Much simpler than some transverse FWD. Yes, you have 2 belts, but thaat is what the 360 deg crank rotation is for.

 

It is recommended to replace the water pump while there if you wish to invest in longevity, but it is not necessary for sake of repairing the belts.

 

You ca do the work without removing the radiator, but doing so you may as well if you want to replace hoses and new coolant, esp. when doing the water pump.

 

If you decide to remove the radiator, remove the clutch fan, and you can leave the electric fan on the radiator. LEave the upper hose with the engine, and fold it behind the fill tube. leave the lower hose on the radiator side, since the water pump end is easier to get at.

 

You can swing up the alternator out of the way as described in the videos. You can indeed work around the ac components. if you see the videos you may consider doing what is demonstrated in them.

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the driver side was broke so that side wouldnt spin when i turn the fly wheel. so i put the new belt on and turn it till its at the top correct? then remove it turn the fly wheel back to the middle mark then put on each belt at a time and do the 360 turn on the fly wheel after applying each belt ?

Lacy, you are getting ahead of yourself.  Take the OTHER cover off and see whether the hole in that camshaft pulley is pointing straight up or straight down.  Then, you set the driver side camshaft pulley hole exactly opposite.  This is all assuming that you followed step 1. for the flywheel tic marks.

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I see what you are saying by installing a belt to be able to turn the cam sprocket. You can remove the smrocket to take the inner cover off and perhaps grab the whole pulley by hand (re-install it) to turn it. If you remove the valve cover, there is a flat spot on the cam for which you can turn it with an open end wrench (17mm?)

 

for the timing procedure, you always install the first belt from the top cam mark and center flywheel, and then do the crank rotation before installing the 2nd belt.

 

the 2 holes on the face of the pulleys are meant for a spanner wrench

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I see what you are saying by installing a belt to be able to turn the cam sprocket. You can remove the smrocket to take the inner cover off and perhaps grab the whole pulley by hand (re-install it) to turn it. If you remove the valve cover, there is a flat spot on the cam for which you can turn it with an open end wrench (17mm?)

 

for the timing procedure, you always install the first belt from the top cam mark and center flywheel, and then do the crank rotation before installing the 2nd belt.

 

the 2 holes on the face of the pulleys are meant for a spanner wrench

i am watching your videos i have te fly wheel at the middle mark and the passenger side cam sprocket aligned at the mark on top of the black cover. but the drivers side is at its compression rotation and im unable to turn it by hand. my question is can i simply put the belt on to break through the compassion remove the belt reset the to "middle mark" and reapply the belt and then turn the crank pully 360 and apply the next belt and turn crank 360

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Yes, you can install the belt just to turn the cam sprocket.  This is OK, will not cause any engine problems.  There are simpler ways of doing it, but none simpler enough to be worth more than a minute or two deciding between them.

 

Your way will work just fine.

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You can use the broken timing belt to turn the camshaft pulley by wrapping it around the camshaft pulley teeth, snug the two ends together and squeeze so as to get a good grip on the pulley teeth, and then spin the entire camshaft and pulley. 

 

If you were to temporarily remove the pulley, and place a white typo eraser paint tic mark on the exact opposite edge as the timing hole, you could use that white tic mark as your timing tic mark.  Then you never have to spin your flywheel in order to set the timing belts correctly.  I have done this to both pulleys.  You then have one pulley with the hole aligned to the top and the other pulley with the white tic mark aligned to the top.

Edited by scoobiedubie
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